How does it work? Is it run by the computer or is it vacuum controlled?
Im thinking about putting a newer engine into my XF minus the computer and wiring loom and injectors and running a straight gas carby and XF dizzy.
With straight gas does the dual runner intake have any benefits? What about with a turbo conversion? Can the dual runner feature operate without the computer? I have been told its vacuum.
If i was running an XF dizzy which engines is it compatible with? Isnt the EF different and doesnt have a distributor or something then was reverted back in EL?
I will be using the same T5 that comes with the engine. Are all manual transmissions non computer related or is it only up to the ED that dont need a computer?
Will both the engine and gearbox slot straight in with XG/H engine mounts?
Thanks for any answers and feel free to give me any tips.
Thanks for that raptor, I mainly created a new thread to see if anybody else knew about the manifold and straight gas. And to also get a few more opinions.
On fordsix forums ive been told that the computer doesnt control the dual runner manifold and i could use a recurved dizzy from an XE/XF and it would work okay.
Originally posted by DansEdgli Thanks for that raptor, .....On fordsix forums ive been told that the computer doesnt control the dual runner manifold and i could use a recurved dizzy from an XE/XF and it would work okay.
Hahahah, I saw your post at FordSix too (small world) I thought you must have posted that same question everywhere you could think of.
I dug up this old post from Grunt51 (Brendon Mock, yes, those Mocks, JMM) who explains how the manifold works. Post came from here; El Manifold Onto An Eb
Originally posted by Grunt51 hey Guys, a couple of hints.....
Use the ef manifold with the same air temp sender as the EB ED....easier to fit then.....i installed one on our ED and it was a sinch.....BUT on short runners the engine pinged like a bitch.....When u set the timing a std tho, u get less power up top.....so we had to counteract it.....SOooooooooo
an EL computer was fitted, just screwed it straight in, and broom it started.......then i had to find the pin number for the vac switch....thats pin 15.....run the wire to the solenoid and preceeded further......pin 15 is and earthing switch, so u have to get a ign positive to connect to the other terminal on the vac switch.....in turn the vac switch functions, and when the computer open the earth, positive signal is sent to the computer and the timing is altered to suit the short runner length....GO FIGURE......but if u dont commect the wire via the ECU the timing dosen't change........THIS IS IMPORTANT....Then set the timing as u should by sending the computer into self test mode and set the timing with the EL computer to 4deg BTDC and whamo....hold on.....its all done on the dyno and the thing is a real burn out machine mate.......
not that the after market RPM switch dosent work, its just a matter of refining the system......BUT try the EL computer first to see if it works.....which it will from eb 2 on ...
So if I understand that right the computer does trigger the vacuum switch by closing the earth on pin 15, the vacuum itself is used to actuate the long/short runners and the timing is altered when the ECU gets power on this pin. Simple.
Yep you were right. Thanks for finding that post for me. That would be proof i cant use the dual runner without the computer.
Looks like if this project goes ahead i will use an EB 11 or ED engine and use a XF dizzy and gas carby. I spose that okay. I was always happy with the performance of my old ED and it will only be better in a lighter car.
looking at my dyno sheet of my AU the power spike after the runners open sticks out like dogs balls, I would hate to imagne what it would be like if there was no flap and the runners just stayed "long"
AU Series 1 I6 Futura, 17" XR Series III Rims, Kings superlow springs and Bilstien shocks, K-MAC adjustable caber kit, xr8 snorkle, BMC Filter, EF a/box lid, custom storm water pipeing, pacemakers, h/flow cat, 2 1/2" zorst mandrel bent, dyno'd @ 117.2kwrw b4 bmc
I've found that if you must run the BBM in either one or the other (long or short) runner position without switching, then overall it's better to leave it on short path position (high rpm setting) - that's actually where it defaults to without any vacuum switching mechanism hooked up.
If you put it to long path (ie. by physically tying the linkage up) then you get pretty severe pinging which actually robs power and virtually cancels the excellent low down grunt - and the difference in the top end is huge with short path selected (ie. short path makes BIG improvement up there!).
I think Brendan meant to say long runners was a problem with pinging without the proper ECU operation.
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