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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-23-03, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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G'day all

I am about to tear my hair out. I have been researching suspension packages and exhaust systems for an EL. I am now more confused than ever! Things were much simpler when I had my ZK Fairlane!

Exhaust systems range in price from $800 to $1300. Power claims range from 8 kw to 12 kw. Some say only to use stainless headers, as the mild steel cannot take the heat and stress of the engine. Others use m/s headers, and don't mention anything.
Some people say it is not worth putting in a cam without modifying the ECU, as gains would be minimal. Others, like Jim Mock, say gains can be made w/o ECU mods.

Suspension packages are the same. They are all around the $1000 mark, but ideas are different. Pedders have a "package" that allows the use of the stock front springs, (it's a wagon by the way) and to reset the rears with an extra leaf. Whiteline say not to lower it, but to put in sway bars, but if I really want it lowered, to use blocks in the back. others have spring and shock "packages" such as K-Mac. Some say I will need an alignment kit, some say I might be lucky.

I guess that it boils down to the fact that we each have our own favourite suppliers, and we pays our money, and hopes for the best.

Anybody have any experiences with any of the above? Patricularly in Melbourne.

Anyway, I am now going to go and lie down.



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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-24-03, 01:20 AM
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Re: Aaaaaaarrrrrrggggghhhh!!!

tell me about it mate - its damn annoying trying to work out what the best way to go is...

mild steel is more than ok - my extractors have gotten hot enough to melt the siren for my alarm (mounted near the brake booster) and they are still fine > mild steel.

get stainless if you want it to look pretty, but i have heard from a few people that stainless steel has more of a tendancy to break at the welds, more so than mild steel anyway. look for extractors with small primaries and nice flowing bends - not bent straight out of the head (i assume you have a I6?)

the size of the cam will determine weither or not you need a chip - if you want big power gains from a large cam you will need a chip to get it to idle correctly, ie no hunting and stalling etc. there is a massive thread in the I6 forums about this very subject, have a look.

IMHO the first thing you do to make your car handle better is drop it an inch or two (2" is brilliant, my XD wagon, old EB and current EB XR6 have all been 2" closer to mother earth) and get some proper shocks - Koni adjustables are fricken awesome, but pricey, stiffer pedders or monroe shocks seem to be pretty popular to people that actually have a life (im not one of them, hence more disposable income, hence i have konis :D)

lowering blocks are ok to use, and cheap, but reset leaves are the way to go if you have the cash.

lowering the car gives you more negative camber at the front - good if you take corners like schumacher, less good if you drive like a skirt. a camber kit is helpfull in reducing premature tyre wear - drop the car on its guts and get an alignment, they should tell you what your neg camber figures are, any more than 1-1.5 degrees is prolly too much, about 1 or a little under is good for normal drivers.

after the height is sorted, if you still think it has too much body roll, get a bigger front swaybar, it should help a lot.

i hope thats not confusing?

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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-24-03, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Aaaaaaarrrrrrggggghhhh!!!

Thanks for the reply. I also have yet to have problems with mild steel headers, but all of the cars that I have put them on have been older ones. I am going to lower the car, it depends on how much it is going to cost as to what products I use. At this point in time, a bloke called Jim Mock seems to be the cheapest, but a forum search is interesting in regards to peoples opinions of him. I have yet to read an adverse comment about his products though, so no news in that department must be good news.

Once again money rules.
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