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Acceleration lag in EB II

5K views 29 replies 22 participants last post by  Rollin 
#1 ·
Ok its starting to get to me now. The EB II’s are a grate car, and the more I fiddle and learn the more I love em, but there is still one thing that really does annoy me – this lagging acceleration until 50kmh.

Is this problem engine design related or is it more to do with the drive line setup, ie the diff ratios? Has anyone here managed to eliminate or at least substantially lessen this lag?

From what I’ve read and been told it’s sounding more and more related to the diff ratio, but I would like to be sure before I start spending the money on having it converted to 3.45 or a 3.7.

It’s an i6 engine and a 4 speed auto. And please, don’t tell me to change to a manual as I’m not interested in a changeover (unless this problem is undoubtedly auto related and there is no other way of even coming close to fixing it)

Also I’m all but convinced that the standard snorkel on the EB II’s allows for far from adequate air flow. What experiences have you all had with different types of snorkels? (Say replacing the original one with one from a XH). Did you notice a reasonable gain in power or was it not worth the effort?

Any info and ideas would be appreciated,
Defective User.
 
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#2 ·
I have to it is mostly transmission related.
I have owned an ED auto with either a 3.08 or 3.27 diff ratio and it takes off like a slug compared to my manual XF. I flogged my girlfriends ex cop ED.
But i have also driven an EF XR6 auto with a 3.45 ratio (supposedly the best upgrade for a non XR model diff) and i found that to be sluggish to around 60-70 km/h in comparison to my XF. My XF has had some work done to it but i really dont think it would be equal to the EF Xr6's power.
The XF has a 2.92 diff which is quite tall but coupled with the short manual gears it feel much quicker than the E series models ive driven.
You could try ugrading to 3.7 or 3.9 cos im sure some people here have done it and you may be happy but you lose highway driveability and economy.

Hope that helps
Dan
 
#3 ·
diff ratio only really helps once you get off the line - better launches are achieved by having a higher 'stall' stall converter - when you mash the throttle off the line the engine 'flashes' up to around the stall speed of the converter, like, 1500rpm or whatever.

if you fit a 2000/2200 stall converter (or like 500-1000rpm higher then stock) to your car it will launch a lot harder, and combined with a 3.45 or 3.7 (go the 3.7!!) diff your car will go far better!

the downside to a higher stall is slightly increased fuel consumption and more heat generated in the gearbox, fit the biggest aftermarket oil cooler you can at the same time you fit the converter.
 
#4 ·
Well right now I was looking at the 3.7 diff ratio, but hadn’t really thought about the stall converter (stupid me, after doing a huge write up on high stalls for a commodore club forum when I owned my VK).

I’ve been looking at powerchip’s recently and so was trying to determine if this problem was engine management related or transmission; had a feeling it would more so be the latter. So is this problem strictly transmission related, or does the management software come into play a lot here too?

Bloody EB’s and there water hoses! I just had one blow around the corner from my house. Split right down the side and its right underneath the intake manifold too!
 
#5 ·
I have the same prob.
Though the car has done 360,000 and i have noticed that take off's are extremely sluggish up until the engine gets around the higher RPMS and also around 50 or 60 k's.

The trans is a bit worn, but i believe that its a bit of everything that doesn't help.
T/C is original and worn, some slip noticable, trans is original and so is the engine.
I recently had a look at the engine with a borescope and showed some polishing and wear marks, so i believe that most of the engine and powertrain needs an overhaul.

My opinion that this will quash most of the power/ performance problems.

I have plans to do a major engine/trans/TC swap in the future.
Hopefully sooner than later.
 
#6 ·
So basically the cars have been around for 11 years and no one has figured out how to remove this annoying acceleration lag? Ok, a high stall may help but I’m convinced it’s not going to achieve what I want. I’m getting eaten off then line here guys; waiting for it to reach 50kmh and shifting to second before I get any power is just not an option to me. There has got to be something that can be done?

(BTW: I’m happy with my auto trans, its running well and I don’t see why it would be the problem? If you have had experience with manually converting your EB and found that it really did remove the lag then tell me, please, because then I may consider it an option)
 
#7 ·
I think the only things you can do is incease ur diff ratio, install a higher stall converter and maybe do the electronic shift kit thing worked well for me and best thing is you can turn it off
 
#10 ·
The sluggishness is caused by the ratio of 1st gear.
All factory 4-speeds are like that.
I drive a manual, much quicker than an auto with the same mods and diff ratio. Just as a note of interest, the manual conversion is really not that hard (I did it myself); if ya want the car to be quicker but still have cruise capability I suggest you do the conversion.
 
#11 ·
yeah I agree with the 4spd auto being main fault at them being sluggish my friends cousin who works at ford told me he tests them and the "manuals go so much harder than the auto's"
unfortunately I am stuck with a auto :(
 
#12 ·
I would be inclined to look at what kiwi05 had to say, if the car's a real slug it might be an engine problem.

For example it might bad timing that only comes apparent when you plant the right foot.

But then again if you keep your car well serviced this should not be an issue.

Do you have any mates who have the same car & setup? Give that a drive and see if it suffers from simular problem.

Good luck
 
#14 ·
Find one in the paper or a dealer and test drive it, see if it feels the same, and while you at it try a manual for a comparison.

Worth a shot to put you out of your misery ;0)

Dellboy999
 
#15 ·
Well for starters replace the throttle cable, these are a major problem for accel lag, if they are stretched abit to much you will not get off the mark as good as you would expect from a brand new one, second if auto go a 3.9LSD or if you dont do alot of highway driving 4.11, manual 3.7, I garauntee you will notice a massive difference in accelleration performance with these two mods.
 
#16 ·
My car has a taller diff and wider tyres and If I chomp it off the line I ALWAYS spin the drive axel wheel and the other starts to struggle and she setps sideways for about 1sec on every launch!!

The EBII should have less weight, 3.23 diff and skinny tyres....

When I bought my Fairmont stock as, flooring it would send smoke billowing out the back from the drivers tyre!!
 
#17 ·
wow flooring my ED Fairmont wont light em up coz she be too heavy im impressed urs does, what was the width of the tires on it
 
#18 ·
225s on 16 inch rim, could be shit tyres that don't have anymore grip than the crap 205s that it came with.

Every time I boot it she just kicks back, spins the drivers wheel once or twice and then gets on with it.

Hence why I am after an LSD.

Does it something stupid on a slight incline.
 
#19 ·
My EBII Fairmont is stock as a rock and lights up nearly everytime I floor it off the mark. Most of the time it'll just sit there and smoke for a while, but if the road is coarse and grippy it'll just give a little chirp and take off.
 
#23 ·
Just go manual :p

My fuel injection is working as well as a cheap spray bottle atm (hardly ever works!).. yet the manual makes it bearable..

Can still spin the wheels taking off if i want.. and leave most for dead at the lights!
 
#24 ·
My EB never spun up much...manual conversion and already I need new tyres! ;) (235/14)
Next up is a rebuild for the motor
 
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