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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-02, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Question Alternator?

Just wondering how big the Alternator in an EA is? Went around to a few car audio stores and they all say that there quite large, around 80 amp, and that the largest affordable one is somethin like 90 amp out of a commodore. They told me anythin higher than that and your lookin at thousands of dollars! Can anyone confirm this?

I need to know cos a big stereo upgrade is planned and I wont bother upgrading the alternator if it's not necessary.

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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-02, 09:19 PM
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hey
as far as i know the stock one is 85A in an EA. the EF has a 110amp alternator with a different pulley, but should fit if you swap pulleys. EB ones are supposed to be of two types - the 85A bosch one and a higher power mitsubishi one.

the ef got an upgrade cause of the electric thermofans.

cheers

Jase

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-01-02, 02:43 AM
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Yep the later falcons, EF/L have 100A+ alternators.

I'm running a little under 1000WRMS, with full electrics, and I don't have charging problems. I use the standard EA alternator (Re-built it myself) and I'v got the biggest Super Charge battery I could fit in the battery holder in the bay.

I can't complain.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-01-02, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Well in that case I'll just buy a cap and a drycell battery, and if need be i'll swap my alternator with my mum's EF one, (without her knowing!) hehe

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-01-02, 07:16 AM
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Ford's manuals says:
Bosch K1 24/60A = 60A
Bosch K1 28/70A = 70 amps
Bosch K1 30/85A = 85 amps
Mitsubishi = 70 to 85 amps
Motocrafts as fitted to V8 = 95 amps.

Regards Blue
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-01-02, 04:17 PM
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wouldnt you be better off trying to keep 14v to the amplifiers rather than 12v?

i can drop the voltage a full volt on a big note (14-13v) when i crank my system, at 2000rpm. this is with a 6 month old bosch 85a alternator fitted... and i dont have anywhere near the amplifier power of you guys!

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-01-02, 07:38 PM
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Yeah I can do the same jbolger... Around a volt with revs and at idle it can jump around 2 volts! I'm eventually gonna put in a dual battery system and a bigger alternator, so that should fix things...

Alex
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-01-02, 09:26 PM
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LOL...
If I have my headlights on, foot on the brake pedal, and have it system al full volume, my volt gauge will sometimes touch the 9V area.
I did some testing on my car to see if this had a big effect on the system.

I used a few batteries in parallel to increase the current supply, and I found that the extra batteries only helped out when the engine was under around 1200rpm, with headlights
on etc. Otherwise, there was absolutely no audible difference.

I have had my setup in for 3 years now, and only spent $125 on a battery in that time, and $40 on my alternator.

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-02-02, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Question Well?

What do you guys think I should do? I will be runnin two 1000bd RF amps and an apline 1507?

Should I:

a) Get a better alternator and Change the current bettery with something like a marine one?

b) Get a dry cell battery (round $400-$450) and use a cap?

c) New alternator, dry cell bettery and cap?
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-02-02, 04:33 PM
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personally, id get an optima and a better alternator.

theres no point having a cap if youre not keeping up the voltage to the amps! a cap is useful if youre power wires cant handle the current over the distance from the battery to the amp - with 0 gauge you should be fine... i think caps are all show. spend the hundred bucks somewhere else.

how much is a "high performance" alternator? if you theyre too much, just get a wrecked EL-AU one.

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