well the ol XD is getting a new clutch over the uni holidays, Im wondering if theres anything I can do to make the insanely heavy steering lighter while its up on the hoist ?
its OK once your going 40km but around car parks etc its really hard on the arms :( especially now its lowered and has wider tyres on the front
maybe new joints or something? how much is it likely to cost?
xced> lowering or fitting bigger wheels won't make the steering heavier so long as your tyres are at the correct pressure (and not worn out) - you need at least 36 in the fronts.
There is nothing you can do "on the hoist" to help - you just need the wheel alignment done correctly. While it's up though, check all steering and suspension links/joints for wear and replace before getting W/A or you're wasting your money.
W/A settings for an XD with manual steering:-
castor - zero to 0.5 degree positive
camber - LH 0.25 negative, RH zero
toe in - 2mm overall
Originally posted by xced well the ol XD is getting a new clutch over the uni holidays, Im wondering if theres anything I can do to make the insanely heavy steering lighter while its up on the hoist ?
Standard XD's had a 20/1 ratio steering box, thank your lucky stars your's is not an ESP with the 16/1 ratio box - they're even worse, My ESP has 15" wheels and the max tyre i've run is a 225 60 15, as previously mentioned tyre pressures, wheel alignments help but the only way you'll make the steering lighter is to fit power assistance. XD XE and XF systems all fit and can be picked up quite cheaply from a wreck. I have heard that power steering with a lowered suspension and wider wheels actually make these cars very nice to drive. I've had my ESP now for almost 20 years and I keep saying I'll do it soon - maybe this year.
Once it's on the hoist that's the best time to do the conversion.
476 EF XR6 Wagons - 198 were Manual
Member Tickford / FPV Club - SA
The caster can make it easier to steer [less of it] but it won't track that well. I went through all this with my old 5.8 X.D and I had to slow down to turn the wheel just to go aroung a corner. I didn't realise just how bad it was until I fitted power steering.Turned the car into a real tourer could actually go quick around corners. Got sick of the spring back when tuning wheel at low speed, had dislocated thumbs for ages until power steering. It will change the whole car.pia with extractors with p/s/box fitment...
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Originally posted by xced thanks for all the replys people!!
whats involved in fitting the pwr steer gear from a XE / XD ?
The Ford workshop manuals show two different types of power steering fitted to both XD and XE, the more common is the "saginaw" type. This one has the pump connected to the steering box by two lines which run under the motor bolting to the engine mount brackets. (the other one is a older design and has the lines running in front of the radiator to cool the fluid) Most XE's and XF's had the Saginaw's much simpler design.
The conversion is a fairly simple bolt in job but the one thing you must do is make sure you use all components from the Power Steering model - don't mix the pitman/idler arms or you'll definately upset the whole geometry. The other minor problem is the length of the steering columns - The power steering one is shorter by about 27mm. (I have heard of people doing these conversions, shortening the columns by levering the collapsable section of the shaft up into the column) I personally would use the XE column because one thing they did with the XE was to place the steering wheel closer to the dash with a shorter column.
Well that's the only problems I can see - It should be a days job and well worth it.
476 EF XR6 Wagons - 198 were Manual
Member Tickford / FPV Club - SA
The steering columns themselves are the same. The difference in length is achieved by adjusting the length of the actual steering shaft. There is a piece at the coupling end that just slides up inside. As for the steering wheel being closer to the dash, all you need is an XE wheel, and the plastic assembly that holds the top bearing of the column. You will find this is the same piece that the wiper and indicator switches bolt on to. There is no need to remove the whole column from the car. The bearing unit is a cinch to change, and the column adjustment is best done while you are changing the steering box over, and have it removed from the car.
I ran 32 psi in my 351 XE wagon. The tyres were 235's, and I never had any wear problems.
The actual pump I used was the saginaw type, if you have a 6 cylinder, you'll just need the correct bracket, as each pump has a slightly different bracket. For the V8 aluminium bracket, a minor amount of fabrication work is required to adapt the saginaw pump to that bracket. It is worth the effort, as the steering won't be no where near as light as that found with the standard V8 pump. You will have much better raod 'feel' and the luxury of reduced steering effort at low speeds.
As stated above, there is no real need to change to power steering, just find a decent wheel alignment shop that will set up the front end with slightly reduced caster angle.
Also ensure that you fit a good quality pitman arm assembly to your steering box, as the cheaper ones will chew out in no time. TRW make a very good product. You will need a very good quality pitman arm puller to change it, as they are usually a bloody tight fit.
Any play in the steering box can be adjusted out with the adjustment bolt /s on the box, but you must be careful to only adjust them while the steering is pointed straight ahead. If not, the steering gear will bind internally, and you will have all sorts of problems. Once again, a reputable steering / alignment shop will be able to take care of this if you're unsure.
Original XD 351 Ute - I got one!!
HSV - I just don't want one....EVER!
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