Im a Prowd owner of a EB II 4.0 GLI falcon, but lately ive found water in oil! and im getting my head casket changed on Monday! DAMN IT, the car has only done 120,000kms good k's!
Ive heard that they put "Crappy" quality bolts in the heads to save money!!! Should i get the Bolts replaced, if this is so!!
Also i need to know whether putting a performance exhaust on a re-conditioned head is OK???
I'm looking to put a 2.5in straight-through Lukey ultraflow/jim mock system, and install a k&n pod air filter.
Any Help??? Would this increase perf/increase fuel mileage
TwstedEB,water in the oil is a common accurance,so don't stress.I would change the head bolts as well.The later model upgrade has a thread all the way to the top and more surface area around the bolt.The ED and back didn't have head bolt breaking abilites like EF onwards do but for piece of mind its worth it.The bolts also have a tendency to stretch too.
Exhaust system mods are a good place to start,but are only part of a package.Diff gear change is also another op to think about.On a budget complete exhaust system,diff ratio change and aftermarket filter will be most bang/pull for your buck.Unless you want to spend a couple of grand and do the whole package.
Great advice. Thanks for the info on Diff ratio's, im not too mechanically minded and id never heard that was an option!!
Is it hard to change the diffs ratio, do you know how much that would set me back at a mechanic??
Any ideas on how to change the air filter with out constructing a air box!
BTW - Took 4 trys to start the car, mon morning after not driving for a week, topped up the water, left the cap only on half way, and started my slow, "RuFF" Ride to my mechanic, luckly the engine didnt heat up much past the Cold blue indicator. dont get the car back 4 a week, im driving a new mazda 323 1.8l Twin cam, it Just doesn't cut it! like the EB
AS Lukey says, change the head bolts dude ($90 from ford).
You'll get more power from the K&N filter, although you don't really need a pod. A panel will do OK if you want to leave it looking like stock, just feed a snorkel from a XH ute to the box for improved flow ($25).
Diff conversions usually only involve changing a couple of parts within your diff, so it shouldn't cost too much. Think about a 3.23 ratio (you have 3.08 as standard yeah?). 3.45 or 3.7 work better with a more highly worked car and manual box (in my opinion), and fuel consumption increases with increased diif ratio.
Well there are two ways you could go,Tickford6 way of buying a complete axle to axle from a wrecker and swappin it with your car.Depending on what you go for will depend on price.Anywhere from diff ratio selection and condition.3.23,3.08 are common and could go for around the $400-$600 but acceration and noticalbe performance gain theres the 3.45:1 fromt the XR6 which are rare and expensive$600-a possible $1000 if you get a expensive wrecker who knows what he has got.
Then theres the OP which I went for and that was to use my housing and fill it with all the right gear.Q What car is really common,in wrecking yards and you can still buy them and the important part is it carries the 3.45:1??Give up??1 VL Commodore(acca Borg Warner),this is and will be the ony Holden part I have in my car.The guy who built my diff told me that they have a harder case hardening then the later XR series of vehicle so they last longer.I don't know why this is but I belive him.I supplied the 4 pinion LSD and axles and he made it all work for me for $450 trade.This included lapping of the gears and full strip down and rebuild of the LSD,the axles had new bearings in them already as well as the LSD.It helps being in the trade.
Now before you go and buy all these parts and drop them off to your local bloke and tell him to make it work,stop.A specialist diff bloke will have more of an idea,trust me.Iam a Mechanic and I have pulled apart a couple of diffs in my time and it still amazes me how he made the VL gears fit the EA housing but it works,as I fitted the 3.45:1 transducer gear and its accurate.
The fuel issue,well you will be driving the car in the rev range it where it makes power most of the time so you don't have to rev the shit out of it to make it move.City driving low revs in 2nd instead of big revs in 1st.Highway not labouring as it is in the rev range and overtaking is a breeze.
Air filters you Tickford6 ideas is good or for the same price you can get a pod and duct some air to it,which is a free gain.Mind you this is starting to make the "box" which you don't wnat ot do.
Hope this helps as thats what we are all here for.
The ED and back didn't have head bolt breaking abilites like EF onwards do
what a co-incedence, my parents EF just broke a head bolt last week, just dripped water out the side underneath the no2 exhaust port though so no oil/water mix *lucky* pulled the head off on saturday how much of a pain is that intake maifold!!!
anyway, i think a 3.45 diff is a good idea, i have never driven an auto falcon with a 3.45 but you could get auto XRs with them so the revs mustnt have been too shocking and the trade off is it will pull heaps better off the line, great for the traffic light gran prix!
i have the 3.45 in my XR and in first and second i destroy most things i race (modded turbo starlet GTs hehehe) but cause of the big ratio gap to third in the T5 it all turns to poo if i am racing a fast car...
i think the best option for you at the moment would be extractors and a 2.5" exhaust, luke has a set i cant remember what they are but apparently he picked up he heap of kW from them, the Mock ones are supposed to be good too, there is a dyno video on here somewhere, a guy called Martin has a ED XR6 and it put out 127kW to the wheels with only a half dodgy cold air setup and Mock extractors + 2.5" exhaust - i think standard XRs put about 110kW to the wheels
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