The K-Mac kit is apparently the pick of the bunch. Mr Herrod has them on his super duper ultimate Fairmont Ghia that is hiding in a dark corner of his workshoft gradually turning into a running beastly concern.......
BA'1.5' Pursuit 290
Lightning Strike / Reflective Orange Stripes 'General' Dog - AP's German Shepherd and Best Mate - 02Dec1998-15Dec2003.
'Pepper' Dog - General's and My Little German Shepherd Sweetie - 1996?-02Apr2006. 'Sako' Dog - My Beautiful and Pretty German Shepherd - 2001?-23Aug2006.
Originally posted by Aussie Pete The K-Mac kit is apparently the pick of the bunch. Mr Herrod has them on his super duper ultimate Fairmont Ghia that is hiding in a dark corner of his workshoft gradually turning into a running beastly concern.......
I've only ever heard good stuff about the k-mac kits, so i would be going with them personally.
My tyres were scrubbing on the outside so I fitted a Pedders camber kit to my NB Fairlane (similar to EB II), It helped a bit but the camber settings kept going out of adjustment. Gave me lots of practice using my camber gauge though. I eventually fitted both a sump guard (Ford) and strut brace (Pedders). Although it's double A arm rather than strut suspension, these to items stopped it losing camber so I assume either the side wall of the engine bay were flexing or moving or the K frame was moving.....or both.
Whiteline also have kits that brace the A arm mouts to the engine mounts and kits to change the radius rod length. I would have tried them first if I had known. Check their kits at: http://www.whiteline.com.au/alignment.htm
Definitely worth it if you are keeping the car or have some decent rubber on it. I have a Pedders "shim adjustable" kit in my ED. It solved the outside tire wear problem instantly and also helped with handling, but I gues the new shocks and a few bushes had a role to play in that too.
The KMac "ratchet adjustable" kit has the advantage of being able to be adjusted with the tires on and the car sitting with its weight on the suspension at the normal road height. Therefore whatever setting is dialled-in is what you get in "live" conditions.
The shim adjustable models require an alignment measurement be taken, partial disassembly of the front-end to add/remove shims, reassemble, remeasure alignment (repeat as required). You can imagine how many (few) interations of this procedure most alignment shops would be prepared to go through before they "settle" for whatever reading they have achieved.
As an aside. When the EA's first come out a a few of the more "clued-up" company car owners where I work wanted a kit fitted to their cars. Apparently the garage had been told to NOT fit any alignment kits as it was cheaper to replace a few sets of tires over the period the company would own the cars and that it added no resale value. SHEESH! Bloody tight accountants!
Especially recommend cator/camber kits if your car is lowered. As for brands...if Herrod use K-Mac it must be OK, I've got Super Pro in my EBII. I had Nolathane but it fu:fmad::fmad:ed out after a couple of months so I replaced it with the Super Pro one, 2 years later no probs.
You know, somebody actually complimented me on my driving today. They left a little note on the windscreen. It said, 'Parking Fine.'So that was nice.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.