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Old 10-17-2001, 00:29   #1 (permalink)
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Are camber/caster kits worth installing on EA?

Any opinions?
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Old 10-17-2001, 00:44   #2 (permalink)
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EA S,

Does your car scrub the tyres on the outside or inside of the tyre.
I got a caster/camber kit fitted to my wagon and ironed out the typical EF outside tyre scrub on the front wheels.

I've also dialled abit of negative camber into the front, which makes the turn in response better. Must say the car handles heaps better now.

I have the shim adjuster ones, apparently theres are caster/camber kits that can be adjusted from teh shock tower for infinite adjustment degrees.
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Old 10-17-2001, 00:46   #3 (permalink)
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The K-Mac kit is apparently the pick of the bunch. Mr Herrod has them on his super duper ultimate Fairmont Ghia that is hiding in a dark corner of his workshoft gradually turning into a running beastly concern.......
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Old 10-17-2001, 00:59   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aussie Pete
The K-Mac kit is apparently the pick of the bunch. Mr Herrod has them on his super duper ultimate Fairmont Ghia that is hiding in a dark corner of his workshoft gradually turning into a running beastly concern.......
I've only ever heard good stuff about the k-mac kits, so i would be going with them personally.
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Old 10-17-2001, 01:49   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Are camber/caster kits worth installing on EA?

Quote:
Originally posted by EA S
Any opinions?
If you're keeping the car for some time, yes. I had a kit added to my EA S when adding new springs, shocks, rear bushes and a new steering rack.
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Old 10-17-2001, 08:32   #6 (permalink)
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My tyres were scrubbing on the outside so I fitted a Pedders camber kit to my NB Fairlane (similar to EB II), It helped a bit but the camber settings kept going out of adjustment. Gave me lots of practice using my camber gauge though. I eventually fitted both a sump guard (Ford) and strut brace (Pedders). Although it's double A arm rather than strut suspension, these to items stopped it losing camber so I assume either the side wall of the engine bay were flexing or moving or the K frame was moving.....or both.

Whiteline also have kits that brace the A arm mouts to the engine mounts and kits to change the radius rod length. I would have tried them first if I had known. Check their kits at: http://www.whiteline.com.au/alignment.htm
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Old 10-17-2001, 18:43   #7 (permalink)
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Definitely worth it if you are keeping the car or have some decent rubber on it. I have a Pedders "shim adjustable" kit in my ED. It solved the outside tire wear problem instantly and also helped with handling, but I gues the new shocks and a few bushes had a role to play in that too.

The KMac "ratchet adjustable" kit has the advantage of being able to be adjusted with the tires on and the car sitting with its weight on the suspension at the normal road height. Therefore whatever setting is dialled-in is what you get in "live" conditions.

The shim adjustable models require an alignment measurement be taken, partial disassembly of the front-end to add/remove shims, reassemble, remeasure alignment (repeat as required). You can imagine how many (few) interations of this procedure most alignment shops would be prepared to go through before they "settle" for whatever reading they have achieved.

As an aside. When the EA's first come out a a few of the more "clued-up" company car owners where I work wanted a kit fitted to their cars. Apparently the garage had been told to NOT fit any alignment kits as it was cheaper to replace a few sets of tires over the period the company would own the cars and that it added no resale value. SHEESH! Bloody tight accountants!
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Old 10-17-2001, 19:42   #8 (permalink)
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Especially recommend cator/camber kits if your car is lowered. As for brands...if Herrod use K-Mac it must be OK, I've got Super Pro in my EBII. I had Nolathane but it fu:fmad::fmad:ed out after a couple of months so I replaced it with the Super Pro one, 2 years later no probs.
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Old 10-18-2001, 17:47   #9 (permalink)
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Rare to see such a unanimous opinion. Thanks all.
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