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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-02-02, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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Question Coolant Leaking Bad after Coolant Change. Help!

Hey guys,

The other day I was bored, and decided that I should change my coolant because I think all that was in there was water after occasional top ups with plain water during the past 6-8 months.

Neway, I undid the hose at the bottom left of the radiator (if your looking from the front of the car), let all the old coolant/water out, then I put the hose back on. Filled up the coolant reservoir with 5 litres of concentrate coolant, and then the rest with water from the tap (i'm living in VIC, and have heard that the water down here is of satisfactory quality to use as coolant water). Ok, turned on the engine, filled the tank up as the engine warmed, then when the engine was warm, pumped the accelerator a few times then filled the coolant tank more. Refitted the cap, and thought I was finished..

Neway, after a few days, i'm cruising down the road, and get the low coolant warning on the dash. Look in the coolant reservoir and it's half empty already! Fill it up with water. The next day, I check the ground underneath to see if it leaked, and saw a small leak from under the bolt of the radiator tank (left hand side). And there was also a major leak from the back right of the engine bay (according to the position of the puddle on the ground). If i fill it up at night, all the water is gone by the morning!

Why the hell is my cooling system f(#*ing up just because I changed the damn coolant?! This car is giving me the shits. I've had it for 6 months after my parents gave it too me, and this is the problems that I've had to put up with so far..

-Steering cracks when I turn the steering wheel
-Lost all steering because the pulley seized, which snapped my power steering belt.
-noisy lhs front suspension. Every little bump I go over makes my suspension creak like an old bomb.
-lifters are noisy everytime i start up
-car stalls in the morning if I don't press the accelerator straight after start up
-brake lights stuffed up, had to change wiring and rear harness
-at least one brake caliper has seized.

I want to sell it, but my parents won't let me because they reckon that with the money I get for the car, I won't get anything better. Bullshit i reckon. I tell my g/f, and all she can say is, "the better the devil you know" <-- whatever that means.. lol

Neway, If you can help me diagnose the reasons why i've got these problems (especially the damn cooling system) i'd be really grateful!


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-02-02, 08:15 AM member
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same problem in eb wagon

My aunty has the same problem in her EB wagon with the coolant leak. We have replaced all hoses and none of the engine components are corroded, have also had the radiator lhs tank replaced and reconed. But despite all this it still leaks. It seems it is coming from under the radiator. Also she has a hell of a noise from the steering it can be heard from inside the car and if you are outside the car you can hear it from about 80m away. Any ideas would be great.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-02-02, 08:32 AM
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You might have jiggled some of the hoses and let some area's that have previously been rusted begin to leak.

Another possibility is that you haven't added enough coolant to your system or the coolant was already watered down. Your engine should run fine with just plain water, however the water is heated to 110 C at full running temp. So this means the water will try and boil and only the cars radiator pressure system stops it from doing so, and so needs to be well sealed and if there are any minor leaks or weak spots... they will break and let water out. Adding coolant raises the boiling point of the water, and so there shouldn't be as much pressure on your system and may be why it's only just started to leak.
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-02-02, 08:38 AM
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Ok do the following to properly trace the leaks...Wash the radiator & the engine. Make sure you cover the distributor & coil so that they don't get wet. Degrease the whole engine & then quickly start the car affter you have washed the engine bay. Affter that tighten all the hose clamps (don't over tighten because you can stuff the hose clamps up). Now affter you have washed the engine remove the plasitic bags from the distributor, coil...etc & run the engine & take the car for a drive. Drive it for an hour or so & then let the engine cool down while still under pressure. Go around & try to trace the leaks. It will be much easier now because the engine bay should be all clean. If the coolant is comming from the back of the motor then you could have broken head bolts which is common on the Iniline 6's...If you don't diagnose this on time time then the chances are that the head gasket is blown too. If you do have a blown head gasket the watter would be comming from the back or between cylinders 5 & 6 because there is not enough sealing area for the head gasket to seal and they tend to blow up there over time....This is an expensive repair & could cost anywhere between $650 -$950 to do the job properly. If it's a hose or a worn clamp just get it replace. As for your radiator I am not sure but the bolt that you are talking about could be for draining water out of the radiator. Check to see if it's rusted. If it is replace it & if it's not try to tighten it a bit.... once again don't over tighten it because it could be half rusty & can snap off & then you will need to pull the radiator off & take it to someone that has the eazyout tool so they can try & remove it....pain in the ass.

As for your lifters they will do they when they are worn especially if the car hasn't been serviced regularly...Try to change the oil on time & use a thicker oil to see if it helps...

The reason brake calipers tend to sieze (this has happened to me as well) is because there is two pins that move in & out as the brake pads wear. 99.9% of the mechanics don't bother to grease them up & once the pins sieze so does the caliper...The actual bolts go through the pins so next time you change the front brake pads add a bit of grease & move it in & out to spread the grease. The pins should be nice & eazy to move. Make sure that the pins face that mates up to the disc hub (I think that's what it's called) is nice & flat. If they are worn the brakes will be wearing un-evenly.

As for your suspension take it to a reputable tyre place & get them to inspect the complete suspenion & to make a list of things that need replacing...Affter you have a list of things that are worn just fix them up over time if you don't have the money to do it all in one shot....Make sure you do all the things that effect the wheel alighment at once because you don't wanna be paying for wheel alignment each time you change something...

I hope that helps

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-02-02, 08:45 AM
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I had the same problem with my EF XR6
I was bored so I flushed the radiator and changed my coolant (with crap from k-mart) same as you a few days later my car was leaking coolant everywhere and I had to fill it up at least 3 times a week.

I spoke to my mechanic and he told me that the cheep coolant can do and told me I have to rip the head off to fix.
He did put in some stop leak and that did fix the problem, but he told me thatís a quick fix and wont last for ever.

So the Next day I traded in my XR6 4 my Series III XR8
(No thatís not the only reason I traded it and it was a great car up till then)
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-02-02, 12:16 PM
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As for coolant leaking from the right rear of engine bay, it sounds like the heater pipes.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-02-02, 03:51 PM
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gees guys, way to scare him!!! its just a coolant leak, dont jump to the worse conclusion...

before checking things like head gaskets and broken radiators, check all your hose clamps. the leak at the back sounds like it could be the heater tap ($20) or a dodgy hose ($20) or a hose clamp ($2). as for the one at the front - check you put the hose back on properly, and also check it isnt just coolant coming from the overflow line...

if youre not confident that you can check the leaks in the hoses, get a mechanic to take a quick look. it shouldnt cost you much, but do it pronto - otherwise it will end up causing more damage...

as for the other things - get a suspension specialist to look at the noises, and get the mechanic to check out the starting problem at the same time... and the lifter noise - you can try your luck with different brands of oil and oil flush products... i only get a small amount of noise on a warm start these days.



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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-02-02, 10:31 PM
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I have had this happen twice to me on my parents EB Falcon. low coolant light came on, replaced it as normal, next day no more coolant

it was our water pump that died.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-03-02, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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With the fact that I changed the coolant be a reason for the water pump to die??

I had a quick look today, and I'm getting water marks on the floor from under the lhs of the radiator, when looking from the front (just below the radiator tank, where the bolt is), and there is a leak just behind the steering arm on the right hand side.

I don't know too much about engines, but there was a hose covered in white stuff at the back right of the engine head, underneath the air cleaner (cfi).

Hopefully this is where the leaks are, and hopefully all I need to do is replace this hose (this hose is in the shape of a U if you look at it from the side) and tighten or replace the bolt underneath the radiator tank.

What I don't know, is why the changing of the coolant made these hoses leak (before i changed it, i didn't have ne leaks at all!).

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-04-02, 05:58 AM
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Incomplete flushing and mixed coolants? Did you remove the thermostat and put the heater when you flushed the system? If not half the coolant might have been in the block or heater core. See for what happens if you mix incompatible coolants.

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