I am going to cut and polish my White 87 XF soon and I need some helpful tips from people who have done it before because its a different paint to what they use in todays car (no clear coating etc.)
I have Peerless Cutting Compound Machine Grade (the orignal green compound is what it says...) and thats what the pros use....but will this not only cut away the paint (get rid of small surface scratches and surface discolouration, but will it polish it as well, as in makes the surface nice and shiny, or do I need to get some sort of polishing compund? And I heard not to do in direct sunlight?
And whats the correct revs/rpm's (or whatever you call it) to have the buffer/polisher on?
And I need to clean the car first and finish off with chamoss?
So correct me if I am wrong:
1) Clean car with hose/cloth get rid of dirt
2) Apply cutting compound to buffer pad/wool and then place buffer on paint surface without any pressure (let the buffer do the work)
3) Wipe off the cutting compound from the paints surface and wash with hose.
4) Apply a protective wax coating to protect from the suns rays.
Yep sounds good to me. in regards to rpm's use a slow setting don't know what machine yr using, I use a variable speed bosch which has a settings between 1-6 and I set mine to 2 and be careful not to push down on the buffer or you'll cause swirl marks or even worse burn the paint. Also don't polish or wax in a circular motion more risk of creating swirl marks. Use back and forth motion.
So the cutting compound I have will polish as well?
Also the buffer I have is one I bought at Super Cheap Auto....its called Pure-Polishermax, is this a good one to use to cut and polish? because i know that it is ok to wax and buff with it, but im not sure about cutting, it comes with cotton clothes...
The rpm's on this buffer are 3500 is this a sensible speed?
The Functional Description is as follows:
Motor RPM: 3500@ 240v (bench speed)
Current: 0.35A (working load)
Oscillations per minute 2800 (at load)
is this ok?
Once again thanks heaps, your help is really appreciated
No it wont, think of it as a paint cleaner they're more abrasive than polish and designed to remove imperfections in yr paint eg. scratches, oxidation, acid rain etc... I would use a polish after using the rubbing compound then wax. Between polishes use a quick wipe on/wipe off detailer something like 3M Gloss enhancer or Maguires Quick Detailer, I personally like 3M as others I've used left an oily residue.
Also don't use the cutting compond too often, you'll end up cutting all your paint away. Use the cigarette wrapper test to feel your paint condition if it feels rough give a Claybar a go, same goes for claybar's, use it too often then you'll rub all yr paint off. Anyway that's another story. WAX, WAX, WAX, I wont harm yr paint it protects it. Use a polish every few months but WAX, WAX, WAX every couple of months or earlier if required.
Man I'm gettin RSI... Hope this help you. Lemme kno if you need more info.
And this is where it gets all confusing for me; I also have a polish called Cream Polish Superfine (also from super cheap auto) and it says do not allow the polish to remain on the surface longer than necessary, and do not apply on warm surfaces, in direct sunlight or to uncured paint, and this to me sounds like its some form of abrasive compound, and not polish?
and i think you missed my last post, i must have edited it just after you replied, i edited the post and gave the specs on the buffer I have, can you tell me if its any good?
I think you have a polish not a rubbing/cutting compound I havn't seen that polisher so can't confirm above, doesn't mean it isn't any good. I would check with SCA and confirm what it is. In regards to speed yr pretty safe my bosch speed 7500-1200 rpm and oscillation 15000-24000 rpm. Honestly unless yr gonna mask all plastic, rubber and glass yr better off doing it all by hand because the stuff goes everywhere and the time you save doing it my machine you waste cleaning up the rest of the car and finishing by hand places where the buffer can't get to.
Now when they say "do not allow the polish to remain on the surface longer than necessary", what do they recommend as necessary? Does it tell you on the bottle, some tell you to remove while still wet and others tell you to wait till it dries to a hase.
Sunlight, you shouldn't polish in sunlight as the heat makes yr polish or wax dries to quickly and desn't give yr paint time to soak in all the oils etc...
The claybar, looks and feels like plasticine, is like a paint cleaner used to remove imperfecions in your paint as mentioned in my prev post, oxidisation, acid rain, bugs, droppings etc... its not as abbrasive as a rubbing/cutting compound.
I've attached a link to Mother Clay Bar, that's the one I use with great results, better and cheaper than Maguires. http://www.mothers.com/products/
Click on paint car and scroll down.
Happy Detailing, As you can see I'm obsessed with it.
yeah im obsessed with it too! I started filling in all the scrathes and holes with putty and primer, now I am going to cut and polish the re-sprayed area, i love it!
Now what i was told today by a pro at milsomes auto paint is that a cutting and polish can remove anywhere between 1-1 and a hlaf coats of paint, this is amazing because thats a lot of paint! So maybe I should jsut do it by hand, because a full buff is gonna remove that much paint, its not worth it!
I have returned the green cutting compound and he suggested using T-Cut "the orignal colour restorer" which I have now purchased, my question is will this get rid of the minor surface scrathces and the faded paint? and also the places where i resprayed (they obvioulsy arent shiny where i resprayed it)
Using a buffer isnt worht it if you can do it by hand....
And also do I have to cover aything on the car, like mirrors, indicators badges etc.?
And as soon as I have polished by hand spary off the polish with a hose? and how soon should i wax it? straight away?
If your using a heavy cutting compound it's very abrasive, I wouldn't use one unless it's absolutly necessary. The polish will remove very minor scratches and swirls. I will apprear to remove deeper scratches but in reality will only fill them and when your wax wears off the scratches will reappear. That where the cutting compound come into play. If yr polish and wax by hand mask you can get away with just masking any rubber and plastic because polish & wax is a bitch to get off especially when it dries.
Once you've applied the polish you will need to remove it with 100% terry towling cloth or microfibre cloth. You wont be able to hose the stuff off with water it's impossible. After all that apply a wax in the same manner. Paste waxes are more durable than liquid waxs as there is less water in them. Also try to get a wax with a high concentration of Carnauba, it's the most protective and durable wax around.
How long has it been since you've re-sprayed, you really should wait untill yr paint has cured, at least 90days before polishing or waxing. With new paint work you should only be using a hand applied glaze and nothing untill paint has cured.
You can use a t-shirt but you run more of a risk of creating more stratches and swirl marks, t-shirt material are often more harsh on yr paint.
Deep scratces, run yr finger nail over the scratch if it gets stuck in the scratch it's deep and your need a cutting compound to remove it. If it's really deep you can touch it up and then wet sand using 2000 grit paper then polish and wax after. Wet sandindg is heaps more detailed than I've just explained. If you need to go that route I give you a more detailed procedure.
Surface scratches and swirl marks should come off with a polish with ease. Don't put too much pressure or you'll cause more.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.