Axeman82

Today I did my first ECU readout on my car and after much trouble in finding an LED test light I finally got it done..

In a town of 10,000 people you'd think it would be easy to find a test light or even a bulb holder.. Nope.. Eventually a nice auto electrician let me borrow a test light (he had never even met me before but agreed that unless I did it myself then I'd never learn anything. He seemed like a top bloke...)

Anyway on the KOEO test I got a really big surprise

...11...

That shocked me seeing as I know my car isn't running that well.. It idles high and I expected a few errors here..

KOER

...50... Correct I have a 3.9L CFI Auto (wish I didn't sometimes)

...42... HEGO sensor indicates engine always rich during test

And thats it...

Now for the questions.. I have leaking around my P/S pump and the P/S box. I was told that the high idle had something to do the P/S switch but could it just be the leaks elsewhere that are causing the high idle or perhaps nothing to do at all with the P/S system??

The O2 sensor reading rich - could that be that the car wasn't fully warmed up? I did rev it to 2000ish for a minute or so and I had come back from a drive about an hour earlier and it was ideling for about 5 mins before I revved it to 2g.. Also I would assume that this running rich would cause excessive fuel consumption (I just thought it was my heavy foot!)

Now does this mean I need a new O2 sensor or what else could be causing this?? Timing??

Finally when the codes finished in the KOER test ocassionally it would idle up and down again.. Any meaning?

Sorry for all the questions but I hope to learn something out of this..

Dan..

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Axeman82

I just went for a drive to definately make sure that car is at operating temperature.. Same codes..

So a 42 on KOER otherwise a clean bill of health ECU wise..

Dan..

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Axeman82

I'm going to check all the vacuum hoses and see if any are leaking..

Dan..

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9psi EB

Axeman82

First, i would clear all the codes and tables - disconnect the batt for 15 - 20 mins and leave a door open....

Then connect it back up and take it for a drive around for a few days and pull the codes off it again.

If you still get the rich code,
go to your local wreckers and pick up a 2nd hand O2 sensor off an EA to EL falc and try it, see if you still get the rich code, alternatively you could borrow one off a mate if you know someone that has an E series.
If it fixes it either keep the 2nd hand one (from wreckers) or go out and get a new one.

If you still get the rich code, then you need to look at MAP or ECT or ACT sensors, they might be slightly out of spec, but not enough for the ecu to give it a fault status.

Also, you can make your own reverse polarity test light by using a red LED, a green LED, and a 1k resistor, and a some alligator clips and a few feet of wire -you can buy these from jaycar / dick smith for around $8 total.

see the attached file...

* note that one LED is in the reverse direction as the other.


9psi EB

Attached Images

testlight.bmp (45.1 KB, 47 views)

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Axeman82

I reset the ECU last week (because this temporarily fixes the high idle problem) so the codes have been cleared pretty recently...

I talked to the auto electrician and he says the vacuum tubes should be fine because if they are stuffed then its more likely to be lean - however this will still cause the high idle (which I am more concerned about)..

On the idle side, it seemed to lower itself after I did the test so I've drive it for a few days and see whats what. I'm gonna check the vacuum hoses and see if any of them are stuffed..

Dan..

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