shorsfall

I dont know about the other states in Australia, but in WA by law you must put an imobilizer in your vehicle when you purchase it. The problem is people go out and put $100 units in thinking they are protected. Yeah right!!! This is the second time this has happened to me now. As you have probably read I bought the misus a Honda Prelude. Well yesterday the imobolizer decides to shit itself just as I was about to drive it to work. When I got home last night I decided to remove the imobilizer. All they had done was cut 2 wires under the steering coloum and join it through the imobolizer. No protection at all. It took me all of 3 minutes to get the car started. So take my advice people. If you are going to fit an imobilizer or an alarm of some sort, get a good one. I recommend Laserline.

AcidBurns

Laserline? Never heard of them... Mine has the simple relay in ignition wire, aswell as fuel pump cutoff, auto switch, and another one.

Mallyboo

Besides killing the guy trying to break in, there are not too many foolproof ways of stopping a car thief. Just try and make it as hard as possible.

You're right Shors, some / a lot of the basic units that are fitted here in WA are a simple matter of a relay stuck in between the iginition wires as it comes off of the ignition barrel. Pretty much some of them are there to piss an honest man off when the battery runs out on his remote unit : ).

Like posted here already - kill switch to the fuel pump and a few others like that are the best way to go : ). Nothing is foolproof but good luck.

btw - would love to see "public floggings" and so forth brought into Forrest Chase (middle of the city for people not living in Perth) for wankers that steal / break into cars, it would be funny to see how quickly the 'trade' would dry up. While on this - never ever "buy" goods that are too cheap to be true. There is a reason why they are so cheap. Hopefully everyone on this group know it comes in circles; so don't expect to buy cheap goods and then not have your own car broken into.

shite - my two cents just became 10........ .

M.........

SPHELL

You'll find that most aftermarket immobilisers are exactly the same as this. Sometimes they work though and external relay and othertimes the relays are incorporated into the alarm module, but the same basic theory applies. A wire is either cut or joined by the relay depending on the state of the alarm (armed = wire cut, disarmed = wire joined).

Your right that these are a piece of piss to bypass, but the key to keeping the theif from stealing your car is the installation. Anyone can put an immobiliser on the ignition barrel wires, and this is the first place the theif will look. Be creative, hide the relays in places they won't suspect. Immobilise the fuel wire from under the back seat or in the boot instead of in the drivers kickpanel. Immobilise the start wire from inside the engine bay instead of at the key barrel. Put the relays behind heater vents, dash panels etc. Dont put them in the kick panel or under the driver's side dash. Incorporate the wires into factory looms and to really fool them, remove the little 'ELEC TEST OK' tags that are around the factory looms, run your alarm wires then put the tags back on :)

It's only really the factory immobilisers that are more advanced. Such as Ford's Smartlock which disables the fuel injectors and the engine computer. Although these aren't fool proof either, which is why many people add additional aftermarket immobilisers for maximum protection.

ben

in WA to register a vehicle you must have either one of the following:

- Factory Fitted
- Government approved (ie, self arming without assistance from operator)

The problem with immobilizers is all they do is jam a relay to the return fuel pump wire, and the starter usually, some have ignition cct cutoff's (which are really dodgy because this means you can simply power the ignition by shorting the ECU relay under the bonnet)

I would have to say smartlock is one of the best immobiliser systems made, however, as advanced as it is, it is still Mrelay controlled, one you put the key in, and turn it, it sets off a signal to de-activate this amazingly advanced injection programming computer.

The only decent anti-start devices are ones where the operational circuitry is dependent on the remote circuitry in order to function, not in order to verify that its allowed to function.....I mean taking this out of proportion you could open your computer up, find the MPU, run external wires to a female plug mounted on the dash somewhere, and disguise your MPU into like a "keycard" or "remote control", and then insert it when u get in the car. obviously you wouldnt bother, but the injectors cant run without a processor, and u cant just "hotwire" where the processor goes. Ford could have done alot better as smartlock is quite easy to get around.

the anti-theft i have for my car: long wire going from input terminal on fuel pump (in the tank, not outside on the wiring clip), to a remote control receiver mounted behind the radio, to its original send wire. This also controls the IGN coil.

without pressing my remote, the coil produces no spark and fuel pump doesnt work, sure you can hotwire the coil easily, but if you tamper with the cct the fuel pump no longer has any input wire therefore no juice. Still relay controlled but alot better hidden, designed, and failsafe than most designs.

ben