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Old 01-28-2003, 20:17   #1 (permalink)
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EA Falcon problems

Hi, just picked up an EA,

it has overheating problems. the radiator was replaced last year apparently (and does appear new) a new waterpump was also installed. There is a leak in the metal pipe that goes from the radiator around the drivers side of the engine, and behind the block, this forms a T piece that connects to 2 hoses. anyway in the T section it appears to be corroded and prob needs replacing.


Any ideas on what this pipe would cost. But I dont' think this is this the main problem. There appears to be no coolant circulating through the engine. The lower hose going to the radiator is luke warm when the motor is running however the high hose that goes to the thermostat does'nt appear to have any water flow and gets very hot (could only hold it for 10seconds before it became painfull). I haven't disconnected the top hose to check, but by pressing the hose, it doesn't have the feel of water flowing through it.

One guy said my head gasket could be gone, is that possible and how does that relate to my heat problems? There is no coolant in the oil, nor is there oil in the coolant, there is no major oil or coolant leaks, only the minor one in that t-piece of the pipe I already mentioned (btw what is that pipe called, if I wanted to get one from the wreckers?). He said something about the gasket going on 2 cylanders being common, and a possibility. Is there a cheap and easy way to work out if a head gasket is blown on the one of the cylanders?

oh btw, this bloke is a mechanic and owns an EA falcon, so IM" sure he knows what he's talking about, just could someone explain how blown head gaskets have a bearing on coolant circulating around the engine?

What is the usual cost of replacing a head gasket in an EA, and the maching required. The bloke I spoke to mentioned $200 - $250 including maching, which sounded ok to me, but have no real idea what the usual rate is for such a proceedure. Anyway I'll get back to him in the next couple of days sounds like a good bloke.

Oh yeah, motor also has a clicking, after about 5 or 10 minutes idle, and also has incredibly poor fuel economy. any idea what could cause either of these problems. Oh and one other symptom maybe related to the others, it suffers from run on after ignition is turned off, after the motor gets too hot.

thanks for any ideas,, ps i have no mechanical knowlege so don't presume I've checked the most obvious of things.

bye
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Old 01-28-2003, 23:49   #2 (permalink)
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I would be taking the thermostat out first and testing it in a pot of water on the stove, might be a good idea to replace it anyway as theyre only around $15

Thats where Id start anyway.

By the way is it actually Loosing coolant besides the small leak from the heater hose?
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Old 01-29-2003, 03:14   #3 (permalink)
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Replace T/state get everything fixed that you know is wrong.. Pluss general maintinance like checking hoses,cap and conections first then you know where to start from...
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Old 01-29-2003, 05:00   #4 (permalink)
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'Six in a Row' no, no coolant loss's other than from that heater pipe T piece thing, and that's really minor.

HI, well I checked the thermostat, and err, it doesn't actually have one, the valve has been cut out of it, so that there is just the seating ring left, and the piece you grab hold of to pull it out.

So my question, What motor problems was the former owner hiding by removing the thermostat. What am I likely to see when I install one?

Something to do with the engine heating up quickly to normal running tempterate would cause some sort of failure or problem?
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Old 01-29-2003, 09:56   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
just could someone explain how blown head gaskets have a bearing on coolant circulating around the engine?
There is no direct relationship, only that a gasket failure may cause compression into the cooling system, resulting, in some cases, the coolant being expelled out the overflow pipe.

Do you get any white smoke out the exhaust first start-up in the morning? After it has been sitting a couple of hours? This is a sign of coolant entering the combustion chamber/s.

Any plugs nice and clean looking (steam cleaned)?

I notice you said it had a new radiator and water pump and not losing much water. There must be a blockage in the system somewhere to overheat like that.

I would get the cooling system sorted before worrying about the head.
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Old 01-29-2003, 13:36   #6 (permalink)
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The thing the thermostat being open all the time ("cut out") is that it will take a long time for the motor to heat up to normal temperature. I would be saying to get all the leaks fixed and start from there. You must still have a blockage somewhere. I would suggest then to get your radiator and cooling system flushed. Even though there is a new radiator presumably a year old, there could still have been a fair amount of crap inside the motor that has blocked up the radiator and side tanks. Fix the leaks, flush the cooling system and get back to us with what you found ok?
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Old 01-29-2003, 17:16   #7 (permalink)
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I agree silverEA, perhaps the idiot dropped the piece of thermostat into the block? but yeah definately get the system flushed, fix the leaks, I would replace radiator hoses if they feel a little brittle, throw in a new thermostat, get the side tanks cleaned out and you should be right
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Old 01-30-2003, 01:45   #8 (permalink)
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'Six in a Row' no, no coolant loss's other than from that heater pipe T piece thing, and that's really minor.

HI, well I checked the thermostat, and err, it doesn't actually have one, the valve has been cut out of it, so that there is just the seating ring left, and the piece you grab hold of to pull it out.

So my question, What motor problems was the former owner hiding by removing the thermostat. What am I likely to see when I install one?

Something to do with the engine heating up quickly to normal running tempterate would cause some sort of failure or problem?
He was possibly trying to mask a overheating problem, problem is he knows stuff all about E series donks, they need a dual acting thermostat to block the pipe running off the bottom of the thermo housing when the engine is at operating temp - no dual acting thermo means some water bypasses the engine and a degradation in cooling.

The pipe from memory is about $36 brand new (dont bother with a wreckers one), and get a new rubber seal while your at. Its a bastard to change so you might want to get your mechanic to do it.

As mentioned by others, check all hoses for condition including clamps, top and bottom thermo housing for corrosion, heater tap for corrosion and grab a dual acting thermo + new rubber gasket.

After doing the above, make sure the cooling system is properly flushed and bled and after that she should run cool as a cucumber assuming head gasket is fine.

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Old 01-30-2003, 07:35   #9 (permalink)
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do you have proof it's a new water pump? If so check the belts on the pump. If there is no water flow the only thing that could cause that is a stuffed water pump. Nothing else moves the water.
The thermostat was probably drilled out due to lazy buggers that didn't want to spend the money on a new one at the time.
I'd say water pump is your problem for sure.
If you ask any mechanic any thing about EA's they will ALWAYS say head gasket. My car hesitated and was told head gasket (it was the leads) my mates car started to bubble in to the overflow tank after changing the radiator. Told head gasket (it was air in the heater system) my dads EA stuttered like a bitch for ages and every where he went he was told head gasket (It was the map sensor)
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Old 01-30-2003, 13:34   #10 (permalink)
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it's just like customers coming into me to get their tv fixed. They assume no go is the power switch and no picture/ no go is the picture tube! I would love to replace what they say is wrong, not actually what is wrong with the thing!
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