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Old 01-28-2002, 18:43   #1 (permalink)
beneaspack
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ea rebuild

hay do you think it is worth getting a new engine in the s/pack or re building the engine it has 300.000 ks
which is cheeper !!!!!! hay do u have a club or a meet!!!!!
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Old 01-28-2002, 19:04   #2 (permalink)
ben
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well what i did was pay $500 and i got a "done in" and essentially new engine (its done a few k's but its also had work done to it (engine out jobs...) non stop, so taking into account how long the rest of my car will last, its essentially new) Now the colour of the oil is light, meaning the engine is immaculately clean, it doesnt puff smoke on startup, so no internals are leaking, coolant, oil, and transmission oil are all the same, non leaking, and i have constant oil pressure, and low temperature, which goes to show for $500 you can get a pretty damn good engine.

I could have payed $3000 for a new one, and it would be absolutely no better, and the rest of the car would die before the engine has had half a life, besides, the one i bought had been serviced every 5000km's, and penrite $75 oil was used in it and it was driven carefully, even though it was cam'd up.

Go for a second handy i reckon, just inspect it first, but if ya going new, get a new engine, not a reco..

ben
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Old 01-28-2002, 20:10   #3 (permalink)
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2nd hand CFI engines for EAs are extremely hard to find.. for me anyway.

im still toying up the option of a 4.0 - but they use different belt arrangements etc - so i think you need a new compressor/power steering pump. the newer models use different plumbing arrangements for the AC too, which make it even more tricky.

ive seen rebuilds on a 3.9 go for ~$2500, which i really cant justify. the EBII i was sitting in the other day which had done 220,000 was a lot smoother than any 3.9 ive personally seen...
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Old 01-28-2002, 20:22   #4 (permalink)
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jbolger 4 litre motor from an EB or ED has the same belt set up as an EA 3.9. The compressor is different from the EA but everything else bolts up the same.If you want to use the later model compressor onto your EA type suction and liquid line an A/C automotive supplier should be able to supply a adaptor plate for around $15 to fit the old type of hoses.EB- ED (4L) have the suction and discharge hose as a one manifold piece setup where as the EA has 2 separate hoses.Centre point manifold will bolt up to a 4 L donk if you don't want alot of mucking around and save some bucks.
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Old 01-28-2002, 20:31   #5 (permalink)
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thanks a lot for this luke, this is what i wanted to hear.

i know the EF uses a serpentine style belt, one belt for everything. so the EB/ED uses the 3 belt setup. this is good news... if i can find an EB/ED donk with low clicks.

the reason i want to keep CFI is because of the hassle swapping over looms/pumps/etc, PLUS the fact that i would have to get the LPG system changed over (new throttle body, wiring, move converter). if i could find a mechanic who would do that whole changeover for $2k i would do it today, i have the money in the bank.

which brings me to my next point - anyone know of any good melbourne mechanics who could do a conversion or engine swapout like this? obviously an EF/AU donk has the new belt setup - but is it worth changing to this, for the benifets of the newer donk?

thanks for all the help, im gonna be doing this changeover soon me thinks.

Jason
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Old 01-28-2002, 20:39   #6 (permalink)
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luke;

you have rebuilt your 3.9 to the point where its nice and speedy - so how do you compare it to a 4.0? should i rebuild the 3.9 cheaply, or nicely, or go a cheap, 2nd hand 4.0 with say a hundred clicks on it?

thanks again

Jason
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Old 01-28-2002, 21:20   #7 (permalink)
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If you buy a second hand motor do really know its history and how long it has been sitting in the yard.I've seen wrecked motors that have the oil full of water and/or been in a engine bay fire.If you do choose this route be careful and see if you can see the state of the car before removal and how many kays on the clock.They might say its done low kays "only just clocked over the 100000km before she got written off" engine oil can be as clean as a new motor or one rebuilt but engine cleaners ,thicker oil,oil additives and having the crap sink to the bottom over a period of time can give this look and its not a good indication of how well looked after the engine is.

I would hope that most engine oil unless running on gas is dirty or showing signs of dirt after 5000 kays because an engine oil is not only a lubricant but detergent and cleans your engine insides.Carbon deposits are left in them as well.All engines are meant to have a certain amount of blow-by or they would blow up probably more oil leaks and lack of power then anything.

I chose to rebuild my motor mainly 1 Iam cappable and 2 I know exactaly what has been replaced and and everything has been checked over 3 or more times.It is a hassle not just a in and out job experience is needed and tooling.

The other op is to get yours reconditioned and leave all the hassles to them plus you get a good warranty as well but be wary of these to.

With comparing mine to a 4 L well it idles a bit rougher due to the cam and I haven't had a dyno done yet but for that extra 35cc I can't slpit them thats my oppinion of the 2.Some say the 4L is a far better motor some disagree.The the only thing that is a 4L part on mine is the timing cover which stops all the head gasket oil leaks from the front,its meant to and so far has lasted 4000kms without oil leaks or weaps.

All somes down to money spent and luckyness.
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Old 01-28-2002, 21:36   #8 (permalink)
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thanks luke.

i still dont know where to go though. a rebuild will keep the car going for a long, long time - im only gonna keep her for another 5 years TOPS, so i dont know if its worth it. i do a lot of k's too. a 2nd hander might be the go, but like you say, they can be dodgy - and EB/ED engines arent exactly NEW. an AU swap would rock because there cant be much wrong with the donk, but it might be too compliated and costly.

i defiantely couldnt do it myself, and most engine rebuild shops do "changeover" and i could end up with someone elses ****ed up donk, parts that arent 100% within tolerance, etc. id really like to get it balanced etc, but i dont know of any GOOD engine shops in melbourne. i have about 1500 to spend on it.

its too bloody confusing!

thanks for your help mate

Jason
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Old 01-28-2002, 21:42   #9 (permalink)
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Well I think I would not be bothering to balance it.There goes $1000 of your $1500.Most falcons make max power at 4500rpm well mine did before engine out.$1500 and maybe a bit more will get you a re-co.You are right you will get someone elses but it will be covered by a warranty.Most engine reconnditioners aren't doggy as you might think.Look around and ask your mechanic,see how long they have been re-coing motors usually as a rule if they have been around for a while they are making money some how.
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Old 01-28-2002, 21:50   #10 (permalink)
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thanks mate

a friend of mine just did the engine in his EF - new pistons, bored out, cam, balanced crank, etc. he spent about 2K (incl cam). he did all the labour with his brother (mechanic). it goes nuts. i just got ideas from him, but i guess with less money i cant have all the goodies!

i dont take the car to a mechanic, i do most of the minor work myself. ill have to ring a few engine places and get a feel for it. a wrecker told me they would do a 4.0 swap for under $1000 but i didnt know how dodgy they were. dont trust anyone.

if a reco is under $2k, ill most probably do that. $1500 id definately do. its just tempting with the 4.0 stuff, especially seeing that EBII i was in the other day - boy did that rev smooth right out to 5k. and that thing had 220KM and wasnt in great nick. if the 3.9 will perform like that with a rebuild id do it, but the 4.0 would still be cheaper...

thanks again for the quick replies

Jason
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