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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-02, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
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confused EA Series 2 Temperature Problems

Does anyone else know of constant Engine Overheating probs for the EA Falcon.

The Head has already cracked once before, new radiator, still seems to be losing water going missing somehere(does not appear to be going in the Engine), temp gage giving strange readings gets real hot a first then just drops in a matter of 2seconds.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-02, 02:34 AM
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Excuse another one of my amateurish guesses, but could it be a blocked pipe somwhere or a faulty thermostat?

Seems weird.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-02, 02:46 AM
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Water pump okay?

Fan clutch/temp sense okay?

<div align="center"><table width="470" cellspacing="6" cellpadding="1" border="0"><tr><td align="center" valign="top" bgcolor="#C0D9D9"><font color="#2500A2" size="-2" face="verdana, arial, geneva">Can't get to sleep? Try reading about</font><BR><a href="http://remlr.150m.com/wagon/" target="www"><img src="http://remlr.150m.com/wagon/snafu.gif" width="260" height="40" border=0 vspace=0 hspace=0 alt="Click for the story of Snafu's 1993 EB2 Falcon Wagon"></a><BR><font color="#656565" size="-1" face="verdana, arial, geneva">...<I>more problems = more fixes = more reliable</I>...</font></td></tr></table></div>
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-02, 08:57 AM
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Ahhh the old jumpy temp gauge problem.....

I've read people in here talking about it before, and had the same problem when I put in my new thermostat. If your temp gauge goes fairly high(usually about 3/4 up on the normal area) as your car engine is warming up and then comes down like a japanese scram jet at woomera then you need to modify your thermostat. I did this to mine almost straight away because I was afraid of the damage it would be causing my engine block with the sudden temperature changes.

The way to fix it is to go and buy a new dual acting thermostat and drill a tiny hole(use smallest drill bit you can find) in the side of the thermostat to let a little bit of water through even when the thermostats closed. Problem fixed.... no more jumpy temp gauge and no more danger of cracking the head.
 
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-02, 09:33 PM
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It does sound like you have a single acting rather than dual acting T- Stat fitted.

Regards Blue
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-02, 01:21 AM
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How do you tell if its a single or double acting?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-02, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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thats a good point????
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-02, 01:38 AM
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A previous thread on these thermos had a picture of each type. Sometime in June 2002 it was.

<div align="center"><table width="470" cellspacing="6" cellpadding="1" border="0"><tr><td align="center" valign="top" bgcolor="#C0D9D9"><font color="#2500A2" size="-2" face="verdana, arial, geneva">Can't get to sleep? Try reading about</font><BR><a href="http://remlr.150m.com/wagon/" target="www"><img src="http://remlr.150m.com/wagon/snafu.gif" width="260" height="40" border=0 vspace=0 hspace=0 alt="Click for the story of Snafu's 1993 EB2 Falcon Wagon"></a><BR><font color="#656565" size="-1" face="verdana, arial, geneva">...<I>more problems = more fixes = more reliable</I>...</font></td></tr></table></div>
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-02, 05:50 AM
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I did have one in the photo gallery and I will try and post a pic somewhere. In the meantime see: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/stag-cooling.html and
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/TR/thermostat.htm

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-02, 05:55 AM
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It was still there so here it is

Both came from my Ford Dealer the one on the right with the poppet valve on the bottom that closes off the bypass port at the base of the thermostat housing is the correct dual acting one.

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