ED Ghia Air Cond-- is it normal?? - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars

BOON250 · 01-06-2004, 00:11

Hey guys this has probably been covered before but I have done searches and cant answer my question.

The A/C in my Ghia appears to work normally but really only gets moderately cold. If you look at the sight glass on the receiver/drier it looks grey. When the ac is cycled on it moves but I understand its meant to look like a bubble effect passing the glass. Its more like a wobble effect if you will. No movement though when it cycles off. The lines going to the drier are hotter when the AC is on than when its off. They are both the same temp either side of the drier.It cycles on and off about every 30 secs or so. the TX valve gets covered in condensation after its been on and it drips a healthy amount of water too after its switched off. On the climate control there is no real difference form 20c to say 16c which should be max cold. Do I just need gas or is it something more? I want it to spit Ice cubes at me like all the other Falcons I have been in.

SPALDING GREEN · 01-06-2004, 03:26

Sounds like the system has enough gas in it given its cycle intervals. If it's a r134 system don't take any notice of the sight glass thats for r12 systems. Try doing a system self test with the ignition on or engine running by pressing top right button (off) & bottom right button (floor) at the same time,if there is a fault it will be displayed on cc screen if no faults screen will go blank, you may have a fault with the blend door motor or it may be stuck, then run the system after self test at 16deg to check for an improvement. also check to see if the heater tap is working correctly.

Dellboy999 · 01-06-2004, 14:04

the blend door is basically impossible to check unless you pull the dash out, it is right at the top of the heater/aircon unit and you are lucky to jam your hand up there, i just finished pulling my dash out, and the heater/aircon unit (had to degass it though) and found that flap was broken, along with a few others (arildite is great stuff for repair), the heater tap is in the engine bay, trace the heater pipes the one that goes down is where you find it, it will be fully open when engine off, and when you start the car with a/c on it will go closed if it is working properly.

Jason

BOON250 · 01-27-2004, 01:15

thanks for the replies guys. Self check turned up nothing and heater tap appears to work ok. I read on here somewhere its possible to adjust the tx valve to make the cycle periods longer. any ideas on this???

turbotrana · 01-28-2004, 05:58

I havent done this yet but will be once I get my dash in. I had a r134a retrofit done and found that it cycles on and off a bit but does not get extemely cold. I checked the high/low pressure switch at the tx valve which was not the reason it was cycling. I think the cycling due to the temp thermo switch which is located behind the glovebox. On the thermo switch it has a screw which i think will allow you to adjust this thermostat up or down. By adjusting the thermostat screw to stay on at a colder temperature it will reduce the cycling and give you colder aircon. I will be doing this but have to put dash in after a clutch pedal box and fire wall weldup. I'm quite sure the screw will adjust the cut in point. Other wise the temp probe could be inserted into the aircond a bit less than it currently is.

Aussiblue · 01-28-2004, 06:58

Hmm I think faulty flap in heater tap; it will appear to work from the outside but may not be closing inside (flap stuck and flap axle freely spinning inside without moving flap) or only half closing. Take the tap out and have a good look. If not this; time for a regas.