Well, last week my Service Engine Light came on, and my car developed a hesitation just above idle. I pulled out the trusty Haynes manual to read the codes from the EEC-4 test port. Here are a few troubles that I ran into and some tips that I wanted to share with anyone who tries this procedure them selves.
According to the Haynes Manual, the EEC-IV test port was next to the right strut. Mine was next to the left.
The book states to hook up a jumper wire from Pin2 to the test port. That was OK. It also says to hook up a voltmeter so that you can read the voltage sweeps... each sweep is a number etc. For my car, I didn't really need to hook up the voltmeter because my Service Engine light would flash for each sweep.
Finally, this was the most frustrating part.... the book listed about one hundred or so two digit codes. It took me 4 tries to finally get the codes correctly, I was noticiing a '1' in between each of the codes. When I couldn't get the engine running test to work properly.. I said screw it and took it to my friend who has a code reader. All the codes that were spit out from his reader were three digit codes, all with a 1 in front of them. The reason the running test wouldn't work was because the computer didn't have good control of the idle.. ...
The problem was my MAF had gone bad. He ordered me a brand new part, only charged me 10% over wholesale.. so $155 (compared to $187 retail). My car is running like she should again, much smoother and with a little bit of her oomph restored.
According to the Haynes Manual, the EEC-IV test port was next to the right strut. Mine was next to the left.
The book states to hook up a jumper wire from Pin2 to the test port. That was OK. It also says to hook up a voltmeter so that you can read the voltage sweeps... each sweep is a number etc. For my car, I didn't really need to hook up the voltmeter because my Service Engine light would flash for each sweep.
Finally, this was the most frustrating part.... the book listed about one hundred or so two digit codes. It took me 4 tries to finally get the codes correctly, I was noticiing a '1' in between each of the codes. When I couldn't get the engine running test to work properly.. I said screw it and took it to my friend who has a code reader. All the codes that were spit out from his reader were three digit codes, all with a 1 in front of them. The reason the running test wouldn't work was because the computer didn't have good control of the idle.. ...
The problem was my MAF had gone bad. He ordered me a brand new part, only charged me 10% over wholesale.. so $155 (compared to $187 retail). My car is running like she should again, much smoother and with a little bit of her oomph restored.