Well I know this has been posted a few times, but I couldnt find an exact list of all the parts needed, and I dont particularly want to get half the job done to discover im missing something.....:dead:
Heres what I know im going to need so far
EF/EL/AU (does it matter which one?) Manifold/throttle body
Plastic Intake tube/Airbox
Airfilter (or is my current one the same?)
Dipstick and tube (?)
EL Leads
Vacuum switch (I wont worry about hooking it up until I get it up and running 1st)
Fuel rail
Injectors (or can I use the ones ive got?)
PCV Hoses
Accelerator Cable
Cruise Cable
The manifolds are the same, for the purposes of your transplant. A second hand one from a wreckers would be a good starting point (not much goes wrong with a cast part), just give it a clean and make sure you take everything with you.
Get the EL/AU plastic intake duct, as the EF system is a good idea that didn't quite work as well as it should have.
wrt your air filter, you need one for an ef/el airbox. By the way, the only OEM box better than an EF/EL box is a commy VS V8 box (flow bench tested). The AU is not so good, as it has a different upper half.
The EF airfilter apparently has a lowly 3% pressure drop across it, so I don't think there is a real need to go nuts on a panel filter.
Just a thought (and I don't know much at all in this area) but work out how the dizzy is advanced. If it's vacuum advance, there may be more work required there and an EL dizzy may be required. Perhaps someone else can help marty on this one.
I have seen an EDXR6 on autospeed.com with pacemakers, cam, pod filter, manifold and chip pump out 150 odd RW kW.
Just had a look again at that article, and he said he had no hassles with just a couple of quick wiring modifications and he set up a rev switch to trigger the vacuum canister that alters runner length (probably around 3000 rpm). These are easy to make.
Martin, have you seen this hint from Brendon Mock;
Grunt51 said:
hey Guys, a couple of hints.....
Use the ef manifold with the same air temp sender as the EB ED....easier to fit then.....i installed one on our ED and it was a sinch.....BUT on short runners the engine pinged like a bitch.....When u set the timing a std tho, u get less power up top.....so we had to counteract it.....SOooooooooo
an EL computer was fitted, just screwed it straight in, and broom it started.......then i had to find the pin number for the vac switch....thats pin 15.....run the wire to the solenoid and preceeded further......pin 15 is and earthing switch, so u have to get a ign positive to connect to the other terminal on the vac switch.....in turn the vac switch functions, and when the computer open the earth, positive signal is sent to the computer and the timing is altered to suit the short runner length....GO FIGURE......but if u dont commect the wire via the ECU the timing dosen't change........THIS IS IMPORTANT....Then set the timing as u should by sending the computer into self test mode and set the timing with the EL computer to 4deg BTDC and whamo....hold on.....its all done on the dyno and the thing is a real burn out machine mate.......
not that the after market RPM switch dosent work, its just a matter of refining the system......BUT try the EL computer first to see if it works.....which it will from eb 2 on ...
I've done the EF BBM onto ED engine mod. It's been in place for about 2 years now but I'm only just about to get the switching operational with an EL ECU.
I've tried both the EF and the EL air intake duct setups and found the EL one to fall noticeably flat compared to EF - but I'm certain it was down to the smaller EL airbox outlet - otherwise the EL setup does LOOK to be better. My longer term intention is to use the EL ducting with EF airbox outlet, which will mean making up my own section of duct from the airbox to intermediate bellows joiner in the EL duct setup.
I fitted an EF rocker cover - if you use the ED cover you'll need to drill and tap holes for the accelerator and cruise cable brackets.
Because EL went back to Dizzy, you might be best using an EL cover as it'll have the right lead bracing layout (EF coilpack type leads layout is much different).
When I did the mod I didn't know that the EL was dizzy ignition.
To fit the EF cover I just had to wind out the studs from the top of the rocker saddles (I did it brutal with vice grips) - the EF Rocker Cover bolts go into the holes those studs were in. The EF head has a wider sill, but the EF rocker cover seal sits fine on the narrower ED head sill.
In addition to the EF fuel rail + regulator you'll need both EF fuel hoses - the injectors should be interchangeable - I'm fairly sure they're physically identical with the only difference being operating pressure range - which I don't think is much different either.
The EF fuel hoses have quick-connect fittings on the ends that attach to the chasis fuel lines, but all you do is cut the ends off at the right length to enable them to be fitted to the lines same as the ED ones are (ie. slipped over the fuel lines down to the beads and clamped). Don't get them the wrong way round. Best way to get the length right is to simply do it from underneath after the manifold setup is in place.
EL leads should be the same as ED ones because the EL went back to Dizzy ignition. In that respect you're probably better off using EL rocker cover - ie. the lead braces will be correct on the EL Rocker Cover - I had to silastic some into place on the EF cover.
You will also need to fit EF or EL heater pipes and hoses - that means both the pipe that comes round from the water pump and the pipe that comes out of the thermostat housing. Also of course you'll then need new EF or EL heater hoses to make it all hook up right. I can't remember if the thermostat housing NEEDS to be changed - I just fitted an EF one anyway - but you'll certainly at least need an EF or EL thermostat cover/outlet (that the top radiator hose connects to) and EF or EL top radiator hose - else the EF snorkel won't fit.
The EF BBM had at least one brace that goes from the front lower part down to the aircon mounting area on the engine block, but the geometry of the ED aircon mounting is not right to enable it to be just bolted up - some modification would be necessary. I simply set it aside to do at a later time but never got to it - meantime the manifold hasn't fallen off or cracked or anything nasty. I don't know if there's meant to be a similar brace at the rear.
There is a small brace on top near the throttle body - I think that one is an important one to have in place.
As far as wiring goes, if you use an EF BBM you need to transplant the ED loom over to the EF BBM (because the big connector that joins the manifold loom to the firewall loom is VERY different) - but all the wiring is compatible and from memory even all the connectors are the same except for the ISC one. I don't know if the EL loom is the same or different. It'd be best to get an EF or EL manifold loom so you can see what's different really easily. The only actual problem is length on some of the wires - don't remember if they were short or longer tho - maybe some of each? - it's not hard to sort out - just have some wire and plices/connectors on hand. With the ISC I just transplanted the EF connector.
What Brendan says is absolutely spot on about rpm switching not being enough - the engine will ping it's arse off without the timing being altered as well. Looks like Ford's "Computer Torque Control" isn't so straight forward after all. Good news is that an EL ECU shouldn't cost much more than getting just an rpm switch setup.
well, this is very interesting, as i'm in the middle of puttin a EF manafold on my car atm, i've got nilly all it done, just need to sort out the fuel lines and also the water one, because i'm goin from CFI EA to a mpif it will b interesting weather all this will work, trust me to do all this work, and not know if it will work, i found that the loom is a little different, i got a mpfi from a EA mpfi and then just put the air flow and i think it was TPI senser connectors onto the old EA loom, i also had to modify where they went, they ahd to go near the middle rathe then then end, and a fel other little things like that and it all seemed good.
ED futura, i c that u had to put in different fuel lines, y is that? r they bigger, or is it only because of the little "werid" connector??
also how did u over come the timing issue? with ur car pinging? cos unlike ur ED i can't just put in the EL computer cos of the smartlock, and i was only goin to be using the first set of runners, for a while, so will my car ping? sorry if u can't answer that, but i need to know what i have to do, dun like a motor that pings.
I've tried both the EF and the EL air intake duct setups and found the EL one to fall noticeably flat compared to EF - but I'm certain it was down to the smaller EL airbox outlet - otherwise the EL setup does LOOK to be better. My longer term intention is to use the EL ducting with EF airbox outlet, which will mean making up my own section of duct from the airbox to intermediate bellows joiner in the EL duct setup.
Yeap your right, the air duct routing on AU's are similar to the EL setup and i found that the pipe just after the lid and the lid it self is too restrictive. I have since got an exhaust shop to fabricate a pipe that joins an EF airbox lid (which is heaps better than the EL-AU ones) to the bellow joiner in the AU duct.
Best of both worlds and the throttle response is heaps better than before. Seems they made a more restrictive lid and joining pipe for noise restrictions and refinement.
I have seen in a book (21st century Performance) , a guy had an EF manifold that he replaced with a 3" mandrel bent pipe. No joints (don't know how that works with vibration). He got a power increase of about 4% (what's that, 4.5 kW?) over the standard RW figure. Worth it if you get it done cheap.
Exhaust Technology I think in Adelaide make a nice looking duct. I sent them an e-mail asking how much power they got out of it, but they didn't reply to that question.
Hiya Bass Crazy, in the past I only got pinging when I was using the Crow 825 cam or EFXR6 cam and had the base timing cranked up a few degrees - and even then it was actually fairly mild (and only on long runners of course). But since the JMM cam has gone in, the engine has no tolerance for long runners even with timing smack on correct setting. I haven't tried running late timing tho. I think it's down to the good VE of the JMM cam profile (the mixture meter indicates ok and plug colour is indicating good mixture too).
CATman, the EF fuel hoses are the same size as the ED ones - but whereas the ED ones just push onto the chasis fuel lines and get clamped, the EF chasis lines and hoses have quick connect type fittings. Because the EF fuel regulator and rail fitting are different to the ED ones you can't use the ED hoses - so the easy fix is to use the EF hoses but cut the chasis line connector fittings off and hook them up like the ED ones were (the EF hoses are fair bit longer than the ED ones so there's lots of lenght to do it).
So would the timing advance be a function of the EF/L dizzy, triggered by the ECU? Am I on the right track here?
ED, I am still amazed at how your donk loves the short runners at the lower rpm. Mine only gets its pull back after 4000rpm with the short runners. I think it might be because your XR head flows better, and the beefcake cam thats in there needing more air.
Anyhow, good luck with the ECU. I've got an EL ECU in the garage but I have never had the motivation to mess around with the whole smart lock saga.... You should not have too many problems id say, Good Luck!
Martin, no worries - it all does seem daunting but in the end it's not that radical - unfortunately when it's all put down in writing it looks bigger than Ben Hur., but if you analyse it thru and come up with the main points it breaks down like this:
1. Main component groups to have ready:
- BBM Manifold (+ injectors + fuel rail + hoses + dipstick).
- PCV hoses.
- Brake booster hose.
- Heater system plumbing - including heater hoses (2 large + 1
small).
- Thermostat top cover + seal and top radiator hose.
- Airbox and airduct setup.
- Rocker cover - including bolts and in the case of using EF
airducts, the support bracket for the duct on
top of the rocker cover PLUS the extension
part that screws onto the second cover bolt
to support the front part of the duct - you'll need
the EF rocker cover bolts too in that case
- Wiring (manifold loom).
- Accelerator cable.
- Miscellaneous parts - heater pipe O rings.
- new rocker cover seal.
- T.Stat housing gasket if needed.
- manifold gasket.
2. Tasks to cover:
- Get manifold wiring sorted - ie. transplant ED loom over to BBM,
which will mean sortening some
wires, lengthening others and
maybe transplanting the ISC plug.
- Fit heater parts - heater pipe from pump.
- thermostat housing?
- thermostat top cover.
- top radiator hose.
- heater pipe from thermo housing.
- heater hoses - ie. from each pipe to the
bulkhead spiggots and the
small hose between heater
pipes.
- Work out vac plumbing - the trick is to concentrate on hooking
up the ED vac system to the BBM, not
try to make the BBM (EF/EL) vac
system somehow match the ED.
- Fit BBM manifold - take care aligning heater pipe support
brackets.
- fit oil dipstick.
- Attach fuel hoses to chasis pipes.
- Fit Rocker cover.
- Fit accelerator cable (small mod to pedal arm needed).
- Fit airbox and duct setup - this will require removal of some
material from the top of the radiator
shroud so that the snorkel can fit in
place.
The question mark on changing the thermostat housing is because I just went ahead and arbitrarily fitted an EF one - so didn't even check to see if the ED one was actually compatible or not.
With the Vac plumbing, you'll find that the ED system basically just needs one connection, so in the case of the EF (don't know about EL) I just stripped off all the hoses from the vacum "tree" on the BBM near the fuel regulator (except for the little hose to the regulator of course) and hooked up the single ED vac hose then blanked the one remaining spiggot (that will be used for the BBM switching valve tho).
Hope all that maybe lays it out clearer - one thing to look into is the issue of whether EL parts will be better for compatibility - ie. I'm fairly sure the EL rocker cover will be better for positioning plug leads (the little guides/clips will be correct for Dizzy setup - ie. all 6 leads comming up together near #2 runner). Maybe even the EL BBM loom main plug will match the ED one?
Bass Crazy, yeah - apparently the whole "Computer Torque Control" story involves more than just the BBM runner switching thing - the ECU implements a special timing strategy as well.
The tractability of my engine on permanent short runners still amazes me too. There's definitely a little bit of an extra shove that comes in at about 3000rpm, but she feels strong right off the line. I'm dying to get the EL ECU in and the BBM setup working fully - the little taste I've had leaves me sweating for MORE! - ie. when I locked the BBM on long runners for a couple of days after the JMM cam went in the low down pull was pretty much head snapping stuff - but only very short in duration before it would rattle and fall flat.
And that was being very gentle on the pedal so as to hold off the pinging as much as possible - by extrapolation it implied the potential of effortless burnouts once full boot can be put in :s6: - oh, or extremely quick (-er) acceleration.
It's a bummer about your setup being pre-smartlock. Maybe you should look into having the whole thing upgraded or find a reasonable ED to transplant your car's good bits to?
I have heard mention that a unichip would be able to perform the timing alteration, anyone know if this is true?
ED, those long runners make a hell of a difference down low... I'm sure you will love the extra GO, just like I do. Oh, and it helps out the fuel consumption as well.
I just realised there's a correction required to my notes there about the heater hoses - there will be 3 larger hoses and 1 small hose - because of course the hose that goes from one of the heater pipes to it's firewall spiggot does so via the control valve.
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