Well I know this has been posted a few times, but I couldnt find an exact list of all the parts needed, and I dont particularly want to get half the job done to discover im missing something.....:dead:
Heres what I know im going to need so far
EF/EL/AU (does it matter which one?) Manifold/throttle body
Plastic Intake tube/Airbox
Airfilter (or is my current one the same?)
Dipstick and tube (?)
Vacuum switch (I wont worry about hooking it up until I get it up and running 1st)
Injectors (or can I use the ones ive got?)
1993 ED XR6 M5 (1 of 329)
Turbo on the way!!
1993 EBII Fairmont (Now wrecking, PM if you want any parts)
1988 Nissan R31 Skyline
The manifolds are the same, for the purposes of your transplant. A second hand one from a wreckers would be a good starting point (not much goes wrong with a cast part), just give it a clean and make sure you take everything with you.
Get the EL/AU plastic intake duct, as the EF system is a good idea that didn't quite work as well as it should have.
wrt your air filter, you need one for an ef/el airbox. By the way, the only OEM box better than an EF/EL box is a commy VS V8 box (flow bench tested). The AU is not so good, as it has a different upper half.
The EF airfilter apparently has a lowly 3% pressure drop across it, so I don't think there is a real need to go nuts on a panel filter.
Just a thought (and I don't know much at all in this area) but work out how the dizzy is advanced. If it's vacuum advance, there may be more work required there and an EL dizzy may be required. Perhaps someone else can help marty on this one.
I have seen an EDXR6 on autospeed.com with pacemakers, cam, pod filter, manifold and chip pump out 150 odd RW kW.
Just had a look again at that article, and he said he had no hassles with just a couple of quick wiring modifications and he set up a rev switch to trigger the vacuum canister that alters runner length (probably around 3000 rpm). These are easy to make.
Martin, have you seen this hint from Brendon Mock;
Originally posted by Grunt51 hey Guys, a couple of hints.....
Use the ef manifold with the same air temp sender as the EB ED....easier to fit then.....i installed one on our ED and it was a sinch.....BUT on short runners the engine pinged like a bitch.....When u set the timing a std tho, u get less power up top.....so we had to counteract it.....SOooooooooo
an EL computer was fitted, just screwed it straight in, and broom it started.......then i had to find the pin number for the vac switch....thats pin 15.....run the wire to the solenoid and preceeded further......pin 15 is and earthing switch, so u have to get a ign positive to connect to the other terminal on the vac switch.....in turn the vac switch functions, and when the computer open the earth, positive signal is sent to the computer and the timing is altered to suit the short runner length....GO FIGURE......but if u dont commect the wire via the ECU the timing dosen't change........THIS IS IMPORTANT....Then set the timing as u should by sending the computer into self test mode and set the timing with the EL computer to 4deg BTDC and whamo....hold on.....its all done on the dyno and the thing is a real burn out machine mate.......
not that the after market RPM switch dosent work, its just a matter of refining the system......BUT try the EL computer first to see if it works.....which it will from eb 2 on ...
I've done the EF BBM onto ED engine mod. It's been in place for about 2 years now but I'm only just about to get the switching operational with an EL ECU.
I've tried both the EF and the EL air intake duct setups and found the EL one to fall noticeably flat compared to EF - but I'm certain it was down to the smaller EL airbox outlet - otherwise the EL setup does LOOK to be better. My longer term intention is to use the EL ducting with EF airbox outlet, which will mean making up my own section of duct from the airbox to intermediate bellows joiner in the EL duct setup.
I fitted an EF rocker cover - if you use the ED cover you'll need to drill and tap holes for the accelerator and cruise cable brackets.
Because EL went back to Dizzy, you might be best using an EL cover as it'll have the right lead bracing layout (EF coilpack type leads layout is much different).
When I did the mod I didn't know that the EL was dizzy ignition.
To fit the EF cover I just had to wind out the studs from the top of the rocker saddles (I did it brutal with vice grips) - the EF Rocker Cover bolts go into the holes those studs were in. The EF head has a wider sill, but the EF rocker cover seal sits fine on the narrower ED head sill.
In addition to the EF fuel rail + regulator you'll need both EF fuel hoses - the injectors should be interchangeable - I'm fairly sure they're physically identical with the only difference being operating pressure range - which I don't think is much different either.
The EF fuel hoses have quick-connect fittings on the ends that attach to the chasis fuel lines, but all you do is cut the ends off at the right length to enable them to be fitted to the lines same as the ED ones are (ie. slipped over the fuel lines down to the beads and clamped). Don't get them the wrong way round. Best way to get the length right is to simply do it from underneath after the manifold setup is in place.
EL leads should be the same as ED ones because the EL went back to Dizzy ignition. In that respect you're probably better off using EL rocker cover - ie. the lead braces will be correct on the EL Rocker Cover - I had to silastic some into place on the EF cover.
You will also need to fit EF or EL heater pipes and hoses - that means both the pipe that comes round from the water pump and the pipe that comes out of the thermostat housing. Also of course you'll then need new EF or EL heater hoses to make it all hook up right. I can't remember if the thermostat housing NEEDS to be changed - I just fitted an EF one anyway - but you'll certainly at least need an EF or EL thermostat cover/outlet (that the top radiator hose connects to) and EF or EL top radiator hose - else the EF snorkel won't fit.
The EF BBM had at least one brace that goes from the front lower part down to the aircon mounting area on the engine block, but the geometry of the ED aircon mounting is not right to enable it to be just bolted up - some modification would be necessary. I simply set it aside to do at a later time but never got to it - meantime the manifold hasn't fallen off or cracked or anything nasty. I don't know if there's meant to be a similar brace at the rear.
There is a small brace on top near the throttle body - I think that one is an important one to have in place.
As far as wiring goes, if you use an EF BBM you need to transplant the ED loom over to the EF BBM (because the big connector that joins the manifold loom to the firewall loom is VERY different) - but all the wiring is compatible and from memory even all the connectors are the same except for the ISC one. I don't know if the EL loom is the same or different. It'd be best to get an EF or EL manifold loom so you can see what's different really easily. The only actual problem is length on some of the wires - don't remember if they were short or longer tho - maybe some of each? - it's not hard to sort out - just have some wire and plices/connectors on hand. With the ISC I just transplanted the EF connector.
What Brendan says is absolutely spot on about rpm switching not being enough - the engine will ping it's arse off without the timing being altered as well. Looks like Ford's "Computer Torque Control" isn't so straight forward after all. Good news is that an EL ECU shouldn't cost much more than getting just an rpm switch setup.
well, this is very interesting, as i'm in the middle of puttin a EF manafold on my car atm, i've got nilly all it done, just need to sort out the fuel lines and also the water one, because i'm goin from CFI EA to a mpif it will b interesting weather all this will work, trust me to do all this work, and not know if it will work, i found that the loom is a little different, i got a mpfi from a EA mpfi and then just put the air flow and i think it was TPI senser connectors onto the old EA loom, i also had to modify where they went, they ahd to go near the middle rathe then then end, and a fel other little things like that and it all seemed good.
ED futura, i c that u had to put in different fuel lines, y is that? r they bigger, or is it only because of the little "werid" connector??
also how did u over come the timing issue? with ur car pinging? cos unlike ur ED i can't just put in the EL computer cos of the smartlock, and i was only goin to be using the first set of runners, for a while, so will my car ping? sorry if u can't answer that, but i need to know what i have to do, dun like a motor that pings.
Originally posted by EDFUTURA I've tried both the EF and the EL air intake duct setups and found the EL one to fall noticeably flat compared to EF - but I'm certain it was down to the smaller EL airbox outlet - otherwise the EL setup does LOOK to be better. My longer term intention is to use the EL ducting with EF airbox outlet, which will mean making up my own section of duct from the airbox to intermediate bellows joiner in the EL duct setup.
Yeap your right, the air duct routing on AU's are similar to the EL setup and i found that the pipe just after the lid and the lid it self is too restrictive. I have since got an exhaust shop to fabricate a pipe that joins an EF airbox lid (which is heaps better than the EL-AU ones) to the bellow joiner in the AU duct.
Best of both worlds and the throttle response is heaps better than before. Seems they made a more restrictive lid and joining pipe for noise restrictions and refinement.
This has been an interesting topic guys.
Motor May 2001 Quote: "Believe it or not, there are actually a bunch of weirdos out there who reckon a six cylinder is the dux gutz. Bugger it: I'm one of them" :s5
AUII Late Ed XR6 HP T5 Venom- Full Tickford Body Kit, 17in Wheels, Herrod Bi-plane Spoiler, Momo Steer/Gear, T-Series Interior Options, Premium Stereo and a very light-tuned 4.0L I6
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