It won't be the EGR - it is not needed by the computer to run your motor - it is activated by the computer under certain drive conditions to minimise exhaust emissions. If it isn't connected it won't matter at all for off-road usage.
from memory (very very shady) the XD-F falcons had a EFI system that somehow worked off the vacuume of the entire motor. someone once told me that if you had one running and you took off the oil cap it would stall, i didnt believe me so he did it and it stalled. they also apparently had special dipsticks that had a seal on them to stop air leaking in (out?)
check all vacuume hose fittings, air leaks from oil cap, dipstick, etc if your motor has this type of EFI
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I've owned my XF Fairmont Ghia EFI since 1994, and I have never seen the thing stall or even falter in the slightest after removal of the oil cap. I can watch my rockers at work through the oil filler hole and the engine doesn't miss a beat.
This would be because I have a vacuum leak somewhere and the computer is compensating for it, thereby reducing my all round performance. Add to this the fact that I can hear a very obvious hissing noise coming from around the EGR valve region, where there are a lot of vacuum hoses and valves and stuff. I've sprayed WD40 all over the area to try and find the leak, but to no avail. I've jiggled and prodded, you name it. If I take off some of the hoses the engine stops, but if I do it slowly, so it has time to adjust before the hose is all the way off, it can keep running.
Anyone have any advice on this? The engine's been rebuilt in 1999, so it's not a major thing like manifold gasket, also the EGR valve has been replaced before. I'd love to sort this one out.
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
BRING_BACK_XF - Try using soapy water instead, blows better bubbles :) Where the EGR valve connects to the plenum is a prime place for a vacuum leak. If you cant find the leak all you can do is fix things one at a time until the hissing stops.
AusXH - It may be stalling because of the fuel system. The pump may be able to pressurise the rail but cant keep up once the injectors start opening. You can test the pump by disconnecting the fuel filter and holding a beaker under the line, but you really need a fuel pressure gauge (if your lucky a mechanic might lend you one) because the pump might appear fine under no load but it may not be able to work under pressure.
I went out and got a new inlet manifold gasget (didn't even have one before :bdead1: ). It now starts and runs for about 20 seconds before dying. I can rev it during this time so I dont think the fuel pump is a prob (had it apart to fix it already).
I've run the eec-iv self test KOEO which revealed a code 22 (MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range). I dunno where the map sensor is if there even is one on this engine???
Ive checked and double checked all the vacuum hoses and inlet stuff. The EGR and air sensor are the only things I can think of that might be causing the prob.
Okay, I just took out the air filter and it idles smoothly, but will still hesitate and stall if I give it a bootload. Air flow problem? Gonna try taking the airflow meter apart (without breaking anything I hope) and look for a prob there.
Jase, thanks for that, any ideas on how to check the functionality of the map sensor now?
BBXF, yeah I put the inlet manifold on, but was hoping if I did up the bolts tight enough, I wouldn't need it. They wanted to charge me 20 bucks for a new gasget.
The ECM testing can be done by anyone with a volt meter, but test lamps are easier. Go to http://www.autoemf.com.au/ for all the info and instructions.
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