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Old 12-13-2002, 20:10   #1 (permalink)
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Read Engine Removal Procedure (Long Post)

Hey guys, I've spend a few days researching how to remove the engine to install my new one. If compiled this document for others to use if/when they need to remove their engine. I've spoken to many mechanics and engine places and taken some notes. This is the final product. I'm open to suggestions from people though. This document only applies to automatic vehicles, I'm not sure how much different the procedure would be for a manual equipped model. Anyway, dunno if it'll be any help to anyone, but I would sure have loved the info.


1) Get the air-conditioning system de gassed before beginning work.

2) Remove the bonnet and put it somewhere safe.

3) Cover the front guards with an old blanket or something similar to prevent the paint from being scratched.

4) Remove the air cleaner assembly (CFI) or the airbox (MPFI).

5) Relieve the fuel line pressure by removing the fuel pump relay (found in a block of 2 relays near the battery) and then start the car and wait for it to use the remaining fuel in the lines or disconnect the connector at the fuel pump and then start the car and let it use the remaining fuel. This should only take a few seconds.

6) Drain the cooling system by removing the lower radiator hose.

7) Label ALL electrical connectors, vacuum lines, hoses, fuel lines etc to ensure correct reconnection. If in doubt make a sketch of the area in question. Disconnect when labeled.

8) Remove the cooling fan, drive belts, fan shroud and radiator.

9) Disconnect the fuel lines and plug them to ensure no fuel leaks out.

10) Disconnect the throttle cable, down shift/kickdown cable and cruise control cable if applicable.

11) Unbolt the power steering pump, but leave all lines connected to it and tie it back out of the way. Make sure the pump remains upright to avoid fluid loss.

12) Remove the a/c compressor and plug all lines so the a/c oil does not become contaminated.

13) Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter.

14) Remove the starter motor.

15) Remove the alternator

16) Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head. The manifold can be left attached to the catalytic converter and resting on the guard, but can be removed if desired.

17) It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold, but once again, it can be removed if desired.

18) Remove the torque converter cover plate from the transmission

19) Remove the torque converter to flywheel nuts/bolts

20) Place a jack under the transmission to support it, use a block of wood between the transmission and the jack to avoid damage.

21) Attach chain to the engine lifting brackets. An engine crane or a block and tackle can be used to lift the motor, but if a block and tackle is used make sure the structure that it is attached to is strong enough to take the weight of the engine. Take up the slack, but DO NOT attempt to lift the engine yet.

22) Remove the transmission to engine block bolts.

23) Remove the engine mount bolts.

24) Double check that nothing is still attached to the engine and nothing is caught.

25) Raise the engine slightly and work it forward to free it from the transmission, making sure the torque converter stays in the transmission. Use a clamp or vice grips if necessary.

26) Fully raise the engine out of the vehicle. DO NOT get underneath the engine when it is only supported by the engine crane or block and tackle.

27) Mount engine on stand or place it somewhere where it won’t fall and can easily be worked on.


Don't know what sort of a job I've done here, but I've done my best and I hope it will one day help someone out.


Daniel
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Old 12-13-2002, 21:03   #2 (permalink)
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I know you have to get the system de gassed by a professional. I didn't say anywhere in there to do it yourself.

It seems like more work to pull the trans out as well as the motor. If it get left in the car, it's one less thing that has to be lined back up properly when refitting.
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1992 AXII Telstar TX5 Ghia

121kW 2.5L DOHC V6 in a car that weighs 1100kg's and looks like a 4 banger from the outside......SLEEPER!

1988 EA S Pak 3spd CFI.....Soon to be a 250rwkw HSV eating machine.
Latest update......MPFI!!
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Old 12-13-2002, 21:10   #3 (permalink)
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Dood... that engine removal process is so wrong!! I've done 2 now and whoever told you that was pulling your leg or has never done a EA engine removal before. I'll go through and show you which parts you need to do.


1) Get the air-conditioning system de gassed before beginning work.

You don't need to get your air-con degassed, none of your aircon pipes need to be undone to take the motor out. There is hardly any risk of damaging air con pipes because they are all underneith the motor and to the side of it. Doing this step just wastes time and money for no reason!


2) Remove the bonnet and put it somewhere safe.

Make sure you loosen the strut nuts at the bottom, and then undo the top hinge bolts(ones connected to bonnet). You will need a friend to help with this. After you have undone the top bolts, pull the strut arms out and lift the bonnet off... and don't forget to disconnect the window washer tube!(Read: OOPS)


3) Cover the front guards with an old blanket or something similar to prevent the paint from being scratched.

Yup, it's a good idea to cover the sides of the engine bay and especially the front because the engine will drag along the top at some points in the removal.


4) Remove the air cleaner assembly (CFI) or the airbox (MPFI).

Yup

5) Relieve the fuel line pressure by removing the fuel pump relay (found in a block of 2 relays near the battery) and then start the car and wait for it to use the remaining fuel in the lines or disconnect the connector at the fuel pump and then start the car and let it use the remaining fuel. This should only take a few seconds.

Don't need to waste time doing it that way... just put a rag around the fuel pipe before you undo it so fuel doesn't spray everywhere. As long as you don't have a smoke in your hand at the time it will be okay.

6) Drain the cooling system by removing the lower radiator hose.

Yup

7) Label ALL electrical connectors, vacuum lines, hoses, fuel lines etc to ensure correct reconnection. If in doubt make a sketch of the area in question. Disconnect when labeled.

No you don't need to label all electrical connectors... ford has made all their connectors uncompatible with the others. In other words it's impossible to plug them into the wrong connector as they are all different. However there are some earth wires which you may want to remember where they go.

Vacuum lines... yes mark them, hoses(water hoses i assume) no don't bother and fuel lines... Yes.

8) Remove the cooling fan, drive belts, fan shroud and radiator.

Make sure you buy the ford special tool and take the fan off... much faster and easier then taking the water pump unit off i can assure you!

9) Disconnect the fuel lines and plug them to ensure no fuel leaks out.

Yes

10) Disconnect the throttle cable, down shift/kickdown cable and cruise control cable if applicable.

Yes

11) Unbolt the power steering pump, but leave all lines connected to it and tie it back out of the way. Make sure the pump remains upright to avoid fluid loss.

Yup

12) Remove the a/c compressor and plug all lines so the a/c oil does not become contaminated.

Don't need to degass it so no. Justtie it to the side, it will be fine.

13) Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter.

Don't bother, unless your car has a massive oil leak out the back.

14) Remove the starter motor.

Maybe... only if you want totake only the engine out and not the transmission as well. I think it is much easier taking both out at the same time. Don't believe me? Take a look behind your engine cylinder head... there is one of your transmission bolts there!! Good luck undoing it.

15) Remove the alternator

Yes

16) Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head. The manifold can be left attached to the catalytic converter and resting on the guard, but can be removed if desired.

No, thats incorrect. Unbolt the exhaust at the cat to exhaust flange underneith the car, and then at the cat to exhaust manifold flange. It will save you some work.

17) It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold, but once again, it can be removed if desired.

Not worth the effort. Just make sure you undo the bolt holding one of the air con pipes onto it underneith on MPFI models, or you'll rip your aircon out taking the motor out!

18) Remove the torque converter cover plate from the transmission

Still reackon taking the transmission and motor out at the same time will be much easier.

19) Remove the torque converter to flywheel nuts/bolts

You will need a rattle gun to do that part.

20) Place a jack under the transmission to support it, use a block of wood between the transmission and the jack to avoid damage.

21) Attach chain to the engine lifting brackets. An engine crane or a block and tackle can be used to lift the motor, but if a block and tackle is used make sure the structure that it is attached to is strong enough to take the weight of the engine. Take up the slack, but DO NOT attempt to lift the engine yet.

22) Remove the transmission to engine block bolts.

Have fun...

23) Remove the engine mount bolts.

24) Double check that nothing is still attached to the engine and nothing is caught.

25) Raise the engine slightly and work it forward to free it from the transmission, making sure the torque converter stays in the transmission. Use a clamp or vice grips if necessary.

26) Fully raise the engine out of the vehicle. DO NOT get underneath the engine when it is only supported by the engine crane or block and tackle.

27) Mount engine on stand or place it somewhere where it won’t fall and can easily be worked on.


Much much much better off taking the tranny and engine out at the same time... either way you will have to diconnect and reconnect the transmission. The only extra work that needs to be done to take out the tranny is disconnecting wires, two pipes, tail shaft, shift selector and tranny mounting bolts. IMHO definately less work then fighting for hours underneith the car and behind the engine block trying to undo high torque bolts.

Cheers
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Old 12-13-2002, 21:28   #4 (permalink)
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Ok then fair enough. I'm just going off what i've been told. Well I guess i'll take the trans out as well. It'll be a good opportunity to give it a good clean up. So I'm gunna need a rattle gun to put the trans on the new engine?
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121kW 2.5L DOHC V6 in a car that weighs 1100kg's and looks like a 4 banger from the outside......SLEEPER!

1988 EA S Pak 3spd CFI.....Soon to be a 250rwkw HSV eating machine.
Latest update......MPFI!!
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Old 12-13-2002, 21:50   #5 (permalink)
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If you can jack the car high enough, instead of lifting the engine and trans out of the car, try dropping it from underneath with the crossmember and all still attached.

Like this

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Old 12-13-2002, 23:11   #6 (permalink)
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Old 12-14-2002, 01:00   #7 (permalink)
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This will have to go up on the site me thinks :) Good work all.

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Old 12-14-2002, 01:06   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:

You dont need a rattle gun, but if youre taking the engine apart I would seriously suggest getting yourself a torque wrench.
Well we tried taking the bolts out of the torque convertor by hand, and it was impossible to say the least. Everytime we tried undoing them the engine of course wants to turn. We put a big metal bar down in between the torque convertor and even then it still wanted to turn. We tried putting a belt on the harmonic balancer, but she just slipped.

With the rattle gun it just vibrates it loose, didn't even have to hold the converter or anything. Came straight out. And of course it's just as easyputting them in again. I guess it depends how loose your bolts on your torque converter are that will decide whether you need a rattle gun.

Quote:
And having done an engine change in an eb after some 'minor' timing problems, dude, just leave the box in there, sure it's a bitch to get at the bolts, but it is FAR easier than stuffing around disconnecting everything under there, its connected to the exhaust, there is a p/brake cable in the way, the cooler lines are very hard to remove intact and the crossmember needs to come out as well, not to mention all that stuffing around with the jack under the box.

There is a little more stuffing around with the jack ectera but i don't agree with you about the stuffing around underneith part. He will have to get under the car and stuff around for aggggess undoing torque convertor bolts and transmission bolts anyways, so either way he's going to be stuck under there doing annoying shit. If he takes it out as a unit he can do the really annoying shit(torque convertor etc) when it's out of the car which makes it much easier.

I'd say he should try to take the bolts behind the cylinder head out first... if they aren't in too tight then he can consider doing it that way
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Old 12-14-2002, 04:23   #9 (permalink)
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Why would you need to take out the torque converter bolts??? The torque convertor is attached to the flywheel, and it comes out with the engine, you cant take it off without the engine coming out!
You can take the convertor off without the motor coming out, you just need to undo the lower cover and undo the bolts that way. You could take the motor out with the convertor still attached, thats true... but it's still a pain getting the convertor back to engage back into the transmission. Took us about 10 minutes to do turning it round and round and round until she engaged into all 3 stages.

But yeah he should give your way a go, he should see if he can get the top bolts undone, if he can he mght want to give your way I try. Thats probably the way I'd do it if I was taking just the transmission out, because only there is so much more work undoing the motor. But for a motor tranplant IMHO taking the tranny out as well will just save time.

Sorry to hear about the valves dood, were they in very bad shape?
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Old 12-14-2002, 23:14   #10 (permalink)
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The pistons normally have little smiley faces cut into them... well one smiley anyways. If you only have one smiley on each piston then thats okay, thats how they are made.
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