Dood... that engine removal process is so wrong!! I've done 2 now and whoever told you that was pulling your leg or has never done a EA engine removal before. I'll go through and show you which parts you need to do.
1) Get the air-conditioning system de gassed before beginning work.
You don't need to get your air-con degassed, none of your aircon pipes need to be undone to take the motor out. There is hardly any risk of damaging air con pipes because they are all underneith the motor and to the side of it. Doing this step just wastes time and money for no reason!
2) Remove the bonnet and put it somewhere safe.
Make sure you loosen the strut nuts at the bottom, and then undo the top hinge bolts(ones connected to bonnet). You will need a friend to help with this. After you have undone the top bolts, pull the strut arms out and lift the bonnet off... and don't forget to disconnect the window washer tube!(Read: OOPS)
3) Cover the front guards with an old blanket or something similar to prevent the paint from being scratched.
Yup, it's a good idea to cover the sides of the engine bay and especially the front because the engine will drag along the top at some points in the removal.
4) Remove the air cleaner assembly (CFI) or the airbox (MPFI).
5) Relieve the fuel line pressure by removing the fuel pump relay (found in a block of 2 relays near the battery) and then start the car and wait for it to use the remaining fuel in the lines or disconnect the connector at the fuel pump and then start the car and let it use the remaining fuel. This should only take a few seconds.
Don't need to waste time doing it that way... just put a rag around the fuel pipe before you undo it so fuel doesn't spray everywhere. As long as you don't have a smoke in your hand at the time it will be okay.
6) Drain the cooling system by removing the lower radiator hose.
7) Label ALL electrical connectors, vacuum lines, hoses, fuel lines etc to ensure correct reconnection. If in doubt make a sketch of the area in question. Disconnect when labeled.
No you don't need to label all electrical connectors... ford has made all their connectors uncompatible with the others. In other words it's impossible to plug them into the wrong connector as they are all different. However there are some earth wires which you may want to remember where they go.
Vacuum lines... yes mark them, hoses(water hoses i assume) no don't bother and fuel lines... Yes.
8) Remove the cooling fan, drive belts, fan shroud and radiator.
Make sure you buy the ford special tool and take the fan off... much faster and easier then taking the water pump unit off i can assure you!
9) Disconnect the fuel lines and plug them to ensure no fuel leaks out.
10) Disconnect the throttle cable, down shift/kickdown cable and cruise control cable if applicable.
11) Unbolt the power steering pump, but leave all lines connected to it and tie it back out of the way. Make sure the pump remains upright to avoid fluid loss.
12) Remove the a/c compressor and plug all lines so the a/c oil does not become contaminated.
Don't need to degass it so no. Justtie it to the side, it will be fine.
13) Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter.
Don't bother, unless your car has a massive oil leak out the back.
14) Remove the starter motor.
Maybe... only if you want totake only the engine out and not the transmission as well. I think it is much easier taking both out at the same time. Don't believe me? Take a look behind your engine cylinder head... there is one of your transmission bolts there!! Good luck undoing it.
15) Remove the alternator
16) Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head. The manifold can be left attached to the catalytic converter and resting on the guard, but can be removed if desired.
No, thats incorrect. Unbolt the exhaust at the cat to exhaust flange underneith the car, and then at the cat to exhaust manifold flange. It will save you some work.
17) It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold, but once again, it can be removed if desired.
Not worth the effort. Just make sure you undo the bolt holding one of the air con pipes onto it underneith on MPFI models, or you'll rip your aircon out taking the motor out!
18) Remove the torque converter cover plate from the transmission
Still reackon taking the transmission and motor out at the same time will be much easier.
19) Remove the torque converter to flywheel nuts/bolts
You will need a rattle gun to do that part.
20) Place a jack under the transmission to support it, use a block of wood between the transmission and the jack to avoid damage.
21) Attach chain to the engine lifting brackets. An engine crane or a block and tackle can be used to lift the motor, but if a block and tackle is used make sure the structure that it is attached to is strong enough to take the weight of the engine. Take up the slack, but DO NOT attempt to lift the engine yet.
22) Remove the transmission to engine block bolts.
23) Remove the engine mount bolts.
24) Double check that nothing is still attached to the engine and nothing is caught.
25) Raise the engine slightly and work it forward to free it from the transmission, making sure the torque converter stays in the transmission. Use a clamp or vice grips if necessary.
26) Fully raise the engine out of the vehicle. DO NOT get underneath the engine when it is only supported by the engine crane or block and tackle.
27) Mount engine on stand or place it somewhere where it won’t fall and can easily be worked on.
Much much much better off taking the tranny and engine out at the same time... either way you will have to diconnect and reconnect the transmission. The only extra work that needs to be done to take out the tranny is disconnecting wires, two pipes, tail shaft, shift selector and tranny mounting bolts. IMHO definately less work then fighting for hours underneith the car and behind the engine block trying to undo high torque bolts.