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Old 05-21-2002, 02:48   #1 (permalink)
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Fading Dome Light

Has anyone succesfully built the interior light fader kit thing from jaycars??? I've bought 2, made circuit A and B and still have no luck with the fricking thing.

The thing i don't understand with it is there is a +12V connection, an earth connection and an output. Surely you would think that there would have to be a trigger so it knows when the door opens/closes?? Theres also a lights connection so when you turn on the lights it cancells the delay and turns the light off.

Maybe someone can help... Before i beat it to a bloody pulp!!

Cheers
Matt
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Old 05-21-2002, 03:59   #2 (permalink)
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Fader kit

xf_xr6

Is that the Electronics Australia circuit ?
Uses a MOSFET Q3 MTP3055 ?

Circuit B is what the fords use. The door switches switch ground to the lamps, which have a +12V feed.

I wired mine correctly but it did not operate initially.
Problem I had was bias to Q4. Used a 68K resister for R8 in lieu of the 150K.

The functions of the four wires:-
Red (+12v) - powers the device - needs a permanent 12V source.
Wht (Door switch wire) - this delivers a ground which slowly goes resistive - this is how the delay/fade works both to enable the delay/fade as well as deliver the function.
Blk (Ground) - needed for the device to operate.

12V / 0V from Lighting cct - this is nominated as used to switch off the interior light if the headlights are turned on.
I suggest you use the 12V from Lighting cct option.
I connected mine to the accessories cct and not the lights.
So:-
When you get in the car and close the door, the lights are on delayed fade.
If you insert the key to start the car then the interior light goes off.
This is how the Fairmonts work.

Hope this helps
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Old 05-21-2002, 04:24   #3 (permalink)
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I am currently using one in my car...
I used circuit B...from looking over, and looking over again, that is what the XF uses.

Its a bit sensitive though sometimes, it comes on with voltage fluctuations, but that could be my alternator.
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Old 05-21-2002, 05:01   #4 (permalink)
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Did you connect the disable (YEL) wire anywhere ?

If you connect the "YEL" wire (at the "12V from lighting cct") to accessories this should prevent the cct from operating when the car is in "normal" operation i.e. whilst you are driving around.

Otherwise could be a number of reasons for this:-
1. Fault in the cct
2. Power feed noise
3. Faulty door switch.

Suggested fixes:-
1. Buy another kit and install.
2. Temporarily wire direct to battery (both red and blk wires) and see if that fixes.
3. Process of elimination - disconnect and insulate one door at a time.
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The XR family ---->
Muzza: a XR8 AU seriesIII...bog standard :)
TBH: (the better half) drives an ED XR6 wagon (Mock Dev 4 160rwkw, JMM extractors, 4 electric windows, Ghia door panels in XR trim, rear head & arm rests in XR trim, Momo s/wheel with Cruise, EL thermos, EBGT wheels, etc) things to come soon = EECV upgrade.
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Old 05-21-2002, 05:11   #5 (permalink)
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Actually, making R8 in the range of 68K to 100K could also have an effect. This makes sure Q4 is biased off in door close mode.
I found the original 150K caused mine to operate all the time (without YEL connected at that stage).

Try that.
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The XR family ---->
Muzza: a XR8 AU seriesIII...bog standard :)
TBH: (the better half) drives an ED XR6 wagon (Mock Dev 4 160rwkw, JMM extractors, 4 electric windows, Ghia door panels in XR trim, rear head & arm rests in XR trim, Momo s/wheel with Cruise, EL thermos, EBGT wheels, etc) things to come soon = EECV upgrade.
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Old 05-21-2002, 05:20   #6 (permalink)
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Muzza - what's that, an XR6 wgn - what model, what colour etc?? Got any piccies

Cheers

Paul B
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Old 05-21-2002, 05:42   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Fader kit

Quote:
Originally posted by Muzza
xf_xr6

Is that the Electronics Australia circuit ?
Uses a MOSFET Q3 MTP3055 ?

Circuit B is what the fords use. The door switches switch ground to the lamps, which have a +12V feed.

I wired mine correctly but it did not operate initially.
Problem I had was bias to Q4. Used a 68K resister for R8 in lieu of the 150K.

The functions of the four wires:-
Red (+12v) - powers the device - needs a permanent 12V source.
Wht (Door switch wire) - this delivers a ground which slowly goes resistive - this is how the delay/fade works both to enable the delay/fade as well as deliver the function.
Blk (Ground) - needed for the device to operate.

12V / 0V from Lighting cct - this is nominated as used to switch off the interior light if the headlights are turned on.
I suggest you use the 12V from Lighting cct option.
I connected mine to the accessories cct and not the lights.
So:-
When you get in the car and close the door, the lights are on delayed fade.
If you insert the key to start the car then the interior light goes off.
This is how the Fairmonts work.

Hope this helps
Yeh thats the circuit i built. Still a little confused on where the door switch wire should go. Do i just connect to the switch wire to the switch on the door??

How would I test the circuit without actually installing it in the car? how do you simulate door open/close?

Im probably coming off as stupid and i apologise but all help is appreciated.

Cheers
Matt
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Old 05-21-2002, 07:21   #8 (permalink)
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Testing

The ED (and maybe the EF/EL) has one wire plugged into the switch. This goes to ground (-ve) when the door opens.
There is +12V behind the dome lamp.
The "WHT" wire can be connected to the single wire behind any door switch.
I assume all the E series models are the same and use the same type of door switch.
The Circuit B version is required for E series.

In the XB, XC, XD and XE (not sure about the XF but probably the same) there are two wires to each door switch.
These switch +12v to the dome lamp (there is a ground on the other side of the dome lamp).

The Circuit A version would be required.

Connect the "WHT" wire to the Black/Blue wires behind any door switch. The other wires on the door switch (Green/Yellow) carries +12V (good place to connect the "RED").
I have original Ford workshop manuals for the XB and XD/XE but do not have a XF one.

Sorry, did say Fords use the Cct B version.
I dragged out all the manuals I have. Looks like the "X" series needs a Cct A and the "E" series needs a Cct B.
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The XR family ---->
Muzza: a XR8 AU seriesIII...bog standard :)
TBH: (the better half) drives an ED XR6 wagon (Mock Dev 4 160rwkw, JMM extractors, 4 electric windows, Ghia door panels in XR trim, rear head & arm rests in XR trim, Momo s/wheel with Cruise, EL thermos, EBGT wheels, etc) things to come soon = EECV upgrade.
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Old 05-21-2002, 07:33   #9 (permalink)
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More testing...

To test outside of the car you need the following:-

12V battery
a 12V lightglobe

Connect "RED" to battery +ve
Connect "BLK" to battery -ve

If Cct B:-
Connect one side of the lightglobe to +ve
Connect "WHT" and a length of wire to the other side of the globe.
The other end of the wire is your "door switch".
Connect this to -ve to simulate the door being opened and disconnect the wire to simulate the door being closed.
It should all work.
Connect the "YEL" wire (at the 12V from lighting cct) to +ve on the battery to simulate the lights or accessories cct to test the disable function

If Cct A:-
Connect one side of the lightglobe to -ve
Connect "WHT" and a length of wire to the other side of the globe.
The other end of the wire is your "door switch".
Connect this to +ve to simulate the door being opened and disconnect the wire to simulate the door being closed.
It should all work.
Connect the "YEL" wire (at the 12V from lighting cct) to +ve on the battery to simulate the lights or accessories cct to test the disable function.
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The XR family ---->
Muzza: a XR8 AU seriesIII...bog standard :)
TBH: (the better half) drives an ED XR6 wagon (Mock Dev 4 160rwkw, JMM extractors, 4 electric windows, Ghia door panels in XR trim, rear head & arm rests in XR trim, Momo s/wheel with Cruise, EL thermos, EBGT wheels, etc) things to come soon = EECV upgrade.
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Old 05-21-2002, 07:48   #10 (permalink)
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Whoops...I meant to say i used circuit A....thats what the XF's use
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