12-13 for an EB is not right, id say 9's should be the slowest.... hmmm.. might be a few things wrong under the hood mate.
Sh*t!!! I got hurricane to look at my car a few days ago and he said that the engine was dead. Thats why i'm posting this thread, to get some other opinions. To make things worse I was beaten by an old fart in an XF on the way home.
I think a manual conversion would be one of the later ones for me because I made the mistake of not getting my manual licence (i'm on my P's right now). So I have to wait until I'm 21.
u have to realise something about CFI cars, some went really really good, and some were pritty much shit house, so u could just happen to have a shit one, i've got a CFI EA, and i think that my car would b faster then that and its done 500000kms.
You REALLY need to think about whether it might be better to actually shelve ideas of being able to race people for a while - instead just treat it as a form of transport and meantime hoard the bucks for a nice project in future - ie. EL's might become very good price once the BA comes out.
IF you are determined to try to improve that car - then first step is to get it checked and tuned by a reputable workshop (preferably a Ford dealer or at least someone who does specialise in them) - mainly to make sure it's not terminally sick, but don't let them panic you into spending money until you have a decent think about it and for example ask on the forums about what they've said.
One thing to specifically try to have checked out is whether the exhaust is clogged/blocked - ie. stuffed muffler or cat.
If the donk and exhaust basically check out then your options from there split into three categories - ground work stuff, engine internals and driveline.
Groundwork stuff is exhaust, extractors and air filter (we're assuming the basic engine is sound here - ie. plugs, leads and other ignition components ok - they don't need to be performance stuff, just in good working order).
Engine internals is cam, headwork etc. and driveline is diff ratio and manual conversion.
The two things that will see the biggest improvements to outright performance - ie. as in what you can then get out on the road and experience and do - are the auto to manual conversion and the engine stuff - and you're looking at about $1000 and $700 respectively.
My set in concrete absolute best advice to you - aimed at giving you a tangible and decent improvement straight up + best value for money - would be to outlay the money to get a Dev 3 cam and adjustable gear (so the cam can be set properly) - I gather you'll be looking at around $465 for the cam, $180 for the gear, $50 for freight - then the installation cost. Don't even worry about exhaust / extractors yet - no you won't get the best out of the cam but it won't actually make the engine lose power - you WILL see a significant improvement over what you have now and for around $700 (not much more than cost of exhaust + extractors alone) it will be excellent bang for buck.
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