My tip is be careful, im doing mine now and i accidently took the head off the drain plug, so i have to drill it out tommorow, yay for me :)
Make sure the engine is cold, take the drain plug off, drain it, jam a garden hose into the hose coming going to the pump (doing this will disslodge any gunk in the radiator, well hopefully) then once the water is coming out clean from the top of the radiator, for good measure bung the garden hose into the top hose and clean it out the other way.
Thats the radiator done, now you need to do the engine. Car needs to be on ramps or hoist for this exercise, get under the passengers side of car, and disconnet the water hose thats under intake manifold number 5. Shove a garden hose in that, and let water flow through for a good few minutes and make sure the water is clean when coming out.
Now its flushed, time to put everything back together and fill with your favoured coolant (Im using RedLine WaterWetter & some antifreeze (2L to be exact) Fill to the maximum line in the overflow bottle. Turn car on (radiator cap is OFF), get up to normal running temp, turn heater on FULL heat and FULL pressure/flow.
Watch the overflow drain of some water (into engine) make sure while its doing this you top it up to max, never go over max, let it idle for a couple of mins when theres no more need to add water. Put the radiator cap on, leave to run a bit more, then your all done.
This is the method i use and the method described in the gregories manual. Hope it all goes well, and dont be cheap on coolant, use the best stuff.
Take the thermostat (T stat) out when you drain it and turn the heater switch to hot or some of the old coolant will stay in the block and heater core. To help avoid air locks when refilling top up at the T stat housing before replacing the T stat. Also, and again to avoid air locks,o keep front of car higher than rear when refilling to get the air to flow to the front highest point and out the overflow tank filler hole. Use a dual acting T stat.
Redline suggest that all road vehicles should have atleast 15% antifreeze combined with there WaterWetter products. Also the factory specifies you run at minimum 5% with an I6.
I used Castrol antifreeze/antiboil so it not only makes it safer in the cold (your right it doesnt go below 0 here) but it also increases the boiling temp by around 9deg, so thats its major benefit incase something were to happen.
With flushing the engine, I found i couldnt budge the heater hose under intake #5 so i took the thermostat housing and thermostat out and put my house in there, it flushed the head and block and super clean, and then you move the hose onto the heater pipe and it flushes that out too, then flush the engine out again to make sure nothings left and seal it all up nice and proper. (I didnt bother with a new gasket as the present one seemed like it was doing fine, was tightly sealed and no cracks/weakness's present)
Just wondering South, why did you use anti-freeze?? I didn't think it got that cold in Perth?
Antifreeze mixture is also an <b>anti-boil mixture,</b> good for hot Perth days. A 50/50 mix will raise the boiling point of water from 100c to 108c (at zero pressure) or from 120c to 128c at 15 p.s.i.
Also a 50/50 mix of water/antifreeze has a good amount of corrosion inhibitors which is vital to protect the cooling system, especially with alloy heads.
"I married Miss Right. I just didn't know her first name was Always."
I do a radiator flush every 18 months to two years,and last year I had the radiator done at a Radiator place and they realy got the crap out of it ,not just a power flush,I think they pull it apart.Anyway it made a massive amount of difference as I use the airconditioner a fair bit in the summer.I use a 50/50 coolent,water mix that has antifreeze as well.But there is only so much that you can do with a garden hose.
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