yes they will bolt straight on, but they cost about $120-$160 from memory, and you can do the same thing for $0 if you can get hold of a fuel pressure gauge and some simple tools.
i believe XR fuel pressure is 300kpa at idle to 350kpa at full load/revs.
remove your fuel pressure regulator and get two large sockets to fit over each end.
the socket that is over the end with the vacuume line in it should be about halfway between the inner and outer diameter of the fuel pressure reg (if you get what i mean)
put it in a vice and compress the regulator a couple of mm - like 2 or 3mm, then release and fit to the car, with fuel pressure reg connected, run the car with the vaccume line on and off the regulator to check base and peak pressure, should be to specs above. if it is still too low, remove the regulator and squash it a little more, only a little at a time until you get the right pressure.
cam will fit straight in, its a good idea to put 3 zip-ties around the cam gear and the chain to stop it slipping a link when you undo the bolt for the cam gear - remember to remove them before you put the rocker cover back on though!!!
also the tensioner is a painful thing - im pretty sure a gregories manual will be of great help to you if you are going to change your cam.
where in brissie are you? i could come and give you a hand with your car if you want.
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on the northside of brisbane at eatons hill. if you are interested, i won't knoock back a hand. have just started fixing up the ute. have put on pacemakers, 2.5 inch system, hi flow cat and a mercury muffler, rob bliss did it for 850. also have king dragon filter. am looking at the elxr6 cam as it is only 170 and i cant afford crows, comp or crane etc. also looking into doing something with fuel pressure and injectors although i think the fuel bill may go up too much. lowering and finally body work eg panels and a kit are in the future. dont have many tools at the moment but have enough to do the cam change. the tensioner is a real pain in the arse but should only take a couple of hours to change the cam. am trying to do things on a budget.
Hey this may sound pretty bodgy, but it works a treat. When I did the valve stem seals on Ians car we ended up changing the cam to (boy was it worn!!). We actually used a broom stuck through the cam sprocket with a brick on the end. This way we could move the sprocket around, and not worry about the tensioners as there was always tension on the chain. The sprocket then slipped onto the cam again in a matter of seconds...
Hmmm whats with the fear of the timing chain tensioner. It's a bit hard to understand until you take one out and see one, but it's really not much of an issue. To release the timing chain, just undo the large time chain tensioner retaining bolt thing(the big one, not the small one in the middle of it) with a pair of vice grips.
Then pull the timing chain tensioner out with a bit of wire. You can then see how it works. Find the right sized allen key to put in the centre hole, and wrap some masking tape near the bottom so that only 2mm of the hex part is showing. Then hold the timing chain tensioner and do turn it clockwise until it goes in the "locked position".
When you want to tension the timing chain again, remove the middle from the tensioner retaining bolt, put the tensioner mechanism back in the hole, screw the retainer bolt into the hole, put the allen key in through the middle hole and turn it anti-clockwise until it's in the unlocked position. Then put the centre back in.
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