rabbi

Hey guys, as posted earlier im having oil preasure problems in my ef2 fairmont ghia. I was wondering what sort of preasure readings others are getting from their factory gauges. My car at idle on a warm day sits just above the red and im worried about it. I had a new switch put in but no change. Also what kind of oils are people using, it would be interesting to see any differences in oils the preasure they hold. Any thoughts and help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks

YOOT

In my manual for the ED it says its normal for the needle to sit just above the red zone. Beats me why but it is.

I use Mobil 1 synthetic in my six which has done 130,000km and its fine. Very smooth and seems a little more powerful up top with this oil too. Free reving shall I say?

I found that thick oil and thin oil both give the same readins on the guage. If you blip the throttle a few times I find it doesn't sit near the red but a notch above it.

When the car is cold it sits about 1/2 way or nearly.

Hope this helps!

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rabbi

thanks ED it does, i've read about people saying synthetics are no good for our i6's. Obviosly you dissagree, can oil pumps or regulaters be changed to give higher preasure ?

TopGhia

Here is a bit about using synthetic oils in older, high mileage motors - and, quite frankly, I wouldn't use them.

Quoted from "Lube Tips" newsletter, does not have any affiliation with the oil industry.

Switch to Synthetics?
<b>I am considering replacing the mineral oil in my engine with a synthetic oil. The engine has 50,000 miles on it. I have heard that the mineral oil and synthetic oil are compatible. Is this true?</b>

Generally, the reference to synthetic oil for an engine, means a lubricant is formulated with a polyalphaolefin (PAO) base oil. PAO, which is often called synthesized hydrocarbon, is pure and is compatible with mineral base oils.
However, because the PAO base oil does not dissolve additives effectively, it is usually formulated with an ester co-base (usually di-ester and/or polyol ester). The additives are soluble with the ester and the ester is soluble with the PAO.
Likewise, the PAO tends to cause seal shrinkage and the ester causes seal swelling, so the effects are offset when both base oils are present. It is the ester that can cause problems when one changes from mineral to synthetic. Ester base oil used alongside PAO base oil in lubricant formulation has excellent natural detergency. In other words, it will clean up varnish on component surfaces as a result of thermal and oxidative degradation of the lubricant. When one switches from a typical mineral-based engine oil to a typical synthetic-based oil, the varnish layer will be removed by the ester in the synthetic oil and become suspended.
This suspended material can rapidly clog filters and can block oil flow passageways and lead to component starvation. The same is true for gearboxes and other industrial machines. So think twice about switching to synthetic oils in applications where the engine or other machine has been operating for some time with mineral oils. If you decide to make the switch, try to clean the system before making the change, then monitor it carefully once you start it up.

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