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Why AU forte? You could get a nice tidy EL XR6 for similar dosh and you would start with a better performance platform.
Obviously you would fit a free flowing exhaust system + new intake ( forced if you have the $$$$), a good cam is said to bring around 20 Rear wheel Kw's, chip ( UNICHIP of course)
Originally posted by EL-Phat 185 Kw's at the flywheel/engine is very achievable really with the mods mentioned above.
Yeap i agree, 185kw at the fly or say 140kw at the wheels is more than possible.
Go the cam, induction, exhaust and chip should bring you to that figure.
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Motor May 2001 Quote: "Believe it or not, there are actually a bunch of weirdos out there who reckon a six cylinder is the dux gutz. Bugger it: I'm one of them" :s5
AUII Late Ed XR6 HP T5 Venom- Full Tickford Body Kit, 17in Wheels, Herrod Bi-plane Spoiler, Momo Steer/Gear, T-Series Interior Options, Premium Stereo and a very light-tuned 4.0L I6
(FPV-Tickford Club of NSW Member and Co-Founding Member of 3FB Inc, Ford Forums Food Bandits)
Yep I was after 185 flywheel kw.. (not at the wheels!!) Mid-low 15's would be really nice.
I'm getting rid of the 200SX because its just too damned expensive.
The only caryard that will let me trade down that has an XR8 wants $23,000 for a 1995 model with 110,000kms. They are giving me $41,500 for my 8 month old S15 Spec R.
If I'm paying $19,000 for this AU..I'm likely to have a few grand to spend on mods.. a cam would be cool. I don't mind if it idles lumpy, and some more topend would be great. I'm keen on going for a cam before doing the exhaust.
the December edition of MOTOR has on of the Journo's AUXR6's with aftermarket headers, exhaust and unitchip supposedly putting out 132 rwKw so that may be all you need to do???
Man if those Unichips are so good I might get one for my XR8.
Here, this guy reckons he can get 170RWKw for $3500, would be more than worth your while to check it out. With that kinda grunt it should be hitting 14s easy...
Quote:
We have the power for YOU.....4 litre mods...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello every Ford owner......
Is your XR6 or 4 litre Falcon feeling a bit Doughy, or are you sick and tired or them damn Holdens gettin you at the lights or the strip ?
WE did, so we got to doing something about it....
Jim Mock motorsport, Mildura Victoria have just completed 5 months or grueling dyno testing at their facilities. We are very proud to announce our Five stages of engine development for the 4 litre Ford engine.
The most common asked question is How much power can I get.....
Our current development on the EF to AU series brings 170 RW Kw to your vehicle. These engines are both comfortable to drive and sound the part...
The DEV 5, 170 RW Kw engine comes complete with full head mods, cam shafts, timing gears, and full 2.5 " exhaust system with newly fitted extractors and Hi Flow air filter and DYNO Testing. Cost to U is JUST $3500.00, Or to include an engine overhaul and balance is $6000...
TAKE NOTE, No Computer MODS are necessary with These engines......An added bonus.
Interested clients can call Jim or Brenden on
03 50 211988.
Most engines can be UPgraded in Just One DAY, and Overhauls can be completed in ONE week........
For A TRUE GEN 3 Beating FORD..........
Regards.....
Brenden Mock
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1993 ED XR6 M5 (1 of 329)
Polynesian Green
Turbo on the way!!
1993 EBII Fairmont (Now wrecking, PM if you want any parts)
1988 Nissan R31 Skyline
I don't own a Ford six, however I own a nissan six and face many simular problems...
here is a starter list (not in order) for you to look into:
-Exaust (3")
-headers (good type)
-Cam (oh man everyone has cams for fords!!)
-Intake (cold air, tickford box etc etc)
-XR6 or chipped computer(higher rev limit for cam, no speed limiter better mapping)
-MAKE it a manuel (auto limited top speed for reason)
-Low LSD diff (~3.45-3.7)
-Some fat low pro rubber/wheels
-Brake upgrade (pads, discs, calipers, fluid)
-Suspension (lower it 35mm)
-Removal of excess weight (spare, jack, some underbody/noise insulation, alloy crank pully)
-Body kit stuff
-Interior bits like chrome doorhandles, chrome ghia bits, leathery bits etc
My general prefence would be to pursue say a XR6 (or simular) cam, computer (xr6 or simular), Headers and a 3" exaust. If you want to go all out on a wild cam I would suggest you go on a lower something like 3.45+ diff at the same time.
However pick your cam carefully, some can be crappy, and its a expensive thing to have a crappy selection on.
I would do in order:
-Intake (cheap and quick and worthwhile)
-Extractors+Exaust (most benificial over all maybe)
-Cam and computer (pushing the last little bit and spend your time making desicion)
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making a stock six go harder
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