hello to all,I am curious about adding some new leads to my EF wagon I have been thinking about the ##$#%ing coil pack and the high voltages it has to generate for decent spark.as
i understand it the factory leads are 10-30 kohms resistive which I have confirmed by measuring..I have read that so called performance leads can be of much lower resistance say for example 1-5 kohms but still with adequate shielding to prevent sensor errors etc.would this then mean the ignition coil pack would not have to work so hard??In turn meaning that the expensive little bugger could then last alot longer ??I have just changed mine and at $185 and a couple of very fiddly hours under/over the car and a very worn out arm I am anxious to make it last as long as possible!!
any feedback greatly appreciated maddymoo1
I'm no auto electrician so I don't really know, but as it is electrical force and not mechanical force, it should not make much difference. Best thing is to ensure you use a bit of dielectric grease on the boots, keep the current going where it is supposed to and keep electrical resistance to the minimum.
In general, when the applied voltage is held constant, the current in a direct-current (DC) electrical circuit is inversely proportional to the resistance. If the resistance is doubled, the current is cut in half; if the resistance is halved, the current is doubled.
So it looks like the lower the resistance, the more bang for the buck!
"I married Miss Right. I just didn't know her first name was Always."
Becarefull with dielectric grease, at work it actually made the leads start to track and cause missfiring. We don't use it anymore and we no longer get this problem as often.
In my opinion and from experience you wont get much gain out of so called "high performance" high tension leads. Only get them if you actually need to replace your leads, otherwise it is a waste of money and time really.
__________________ Ed Phat Drift Damaged Cobalt Blue 1994 EF XR8 5 spd
Fully optioned - Sunroof, cruise, body kit
Stock as a Rock for the moment
Ed its not so much increased performance I'm trying to gain ,I'm thinking more along the lines that if the coil pack doesn't have to generate as high a voltage ,due to decreased lead resistance ,then the coil pack itself will not have to work as hard(since it willgenerate whatever voltage necesary to jump the spark gap) and therefore I think should last a lot longer...maybe 10 years instead of 5 or so..any further thoughts anyone??
im a sparky hah!. Seriously guys, those coils poke out about 25 000 v. At that voltage it dosent really care about resistance. I believe resitive leads were introduced to reduce radio interference probs as were in line supressors and plug caps which were used on plain copper leads. The lower resistance leads will allow a little bit more current to flow hence a slightly hotter spark. The coil will allways generate the same voltage. As for the grease, it only insulates while it is clean and new. any crap in it turns it into a conductor. Use a little on the contacts to prevent corrosion and put the boots on dry. Vaseline will do the same job. Too much and it lubricates the boots and they creep off.
If it aint broke then dont fffffffix it!
My advice may not be worth much, but at least it's free!
Just a quick one on Leads and Resistance.
Does anyone know what the Safest Lowest Resistance leads you can use with the EF coil pack.
The Reason that I am asking is that with some motorbikes, you can run Solid Copper Leads, but the Boots must have a certain Resistance. (I.E. 5Kohm).
If the resistance is lower, then the Leads will pull more current, and the Transistor on the Ingition Module tends to blow ?
(On my gixxer, I cant go below 5Kohm Boots, unless I fit an aftermarket Igntion Module, complete with new coils).
an interesting point about higher current flow. less resistance does equal higher current flow. Motor bikes use cdi, capacitor discharge ignition which dosent need any external power to operate it ie no battery on the bike. Car stuff is different. The way the spark is generated is that a current is fed thru the low voltage side of the coil and then it is suddenly interrupted ie points opening in the old system. As the current stops there is a rapid collapse of the internal magnetic feild in the iron part of the coil. This in turn induces a current in the secondary or high voltage side of the coil- your spark. At this point I dont think the ignition module really cares what happens on the high voltage side. One point though, dont ever crank the engine over with any leads off or pull them off while running. Short them out if you have to. If the spark has no where to go then it can affect the low voltage side of things ie arcing to where it shouldnt go. Most systems will cope but why risk it? I know its a long blurb but hope it might put some light on the subject.
thanks shrekky ,that makes sense..secondary voltage is fixed so if resistance drops current rises ..if the spark is hotter does this mean you need a different plug to suit the higher current leads..does this also mean that my EF falcon ignition module may degrade sooner due to higher than factory designed current draw with so called performance leads installed??If so the performance leads are not for me!! I just want the bugger to run smoothly for a long time!!
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.