83lincolnlimo

I have an '83 lincoln towncar that is not starting. This is a v8 with fuel injection and an electronic ignition system. I have replaced the following parts: ECU (computer), ignition switch, ignition module, ignition coil, sparks, plugs, distributor cap, rotor, and crankshaft position sensor. When I attempt to start the car, it will turn over but will not distribute the power to the sparks. If I pull the wire from the coil to the distributor, and add a spark plug to the end of the wire and ground it to the alternator, I will see a spark only after I have tried to start the car and returned the key to the 'off' position, which seems to be discharging the coil only once. All voltage seems to check out, and all wires have been checked and rechecked. What am I missing?

ebxr8240

Spark ???Check ignition barrel ? Coil check out k? Does this year model have TFS ignition ? Is it fitted with an alarm?

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81foXDwagon

OK.. I can narrow it down for you....

The presence of the spark after you turn off the ignition confirms:
- The coil is getting 12v + from the ignition.
- The coil is serviceable.
- The negative wire from the dissy to the coil is grounding.

Hence the reason you wont be getting spark is that the negative supply to the coil is not breaking when the engine is rotating.

Just incase your not sure on how the coil / ign works heres a overview:

- The ignition is turned on, and the coil is suppled with +12v on the + side.
- The negative side is currently grounded, and the coil is energised.

- As the engine turns, when a spark is required the negative side of the coil is suddenly open circuited (ie not grounded anymore). This causes a mag field change in the coil and a spark is produced.

Now comes the tricky part:
- There may be a second wire going to the negative side of the coil (somewhere in the loom of the car) which acts as an immobiliser. By being grounded, it prevents the negative supply from the coil breaking and hence spark.

If there is such a wire, disconnect it and see if she fires up.

If there isnt, there must be a fault with the distributor itself. How does the distributor operate? Is there points, hall effect, or reluctor??

Its likely that the inner workings of the dissy have failed. Without knowing the specifics, I cant recommend a repair option.

Hope this helps, sorry if its a bit confusing

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And the tires were smoking, like my car that time I forgot to drain the oil out before I put the new stuff in....

83lincolnlimo

I think I have found the problem. I also found out that the fuel pump was not working also when the key was turned. I traced back the wiring to the fuel pump relay. I bypass tested the relay and the pump started working. The relay was shot. I then bypass tested the EEC power relay which is next to the fuel pump relay. The car fired up in 2 seconds! I replaced both the fuel pump and EEC power relay, and the car is starting regularly. This was a tough electrical problem to iron down, considering the amount of replacement parts I added that may/may not have been necessary.

Lesson learned.

Rob