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Power Steer Leak

3K views 22 replies 6 participants last post by  XplodEd EA 
#1 ·
Got a leak on the power steering rack, comen from the drivers side boot. Used to be just a slow leak now its pouring out, I'm suspecting it's just a seal of some sort or something. Anyone got any ideas as to what it is and rough prices to get it fixed, or if it's an easy fix, I'm mechanically minded and all and have most tools or can get a hold of them. I just dont have much money at all at the moment and can't really afford to take it somewhere to get it fixed.

Ed
 
#3 ·
Nah it's not the switch, I checked that out first thing as soon as I saw the puddle on the ground. It's dripping off the bottom of the boot on the end of the rack.

Ed
 
#4 ·
I got 2 quotes today, one for around $400 ($350 plus labour) and another at brigestone $450 complete. What both said is that I'm better off getting a replacement rack which is completely rebuilt with all new seals and everything rather than just changing the seals on the rack cos 3 months later the rack might go. Either way is this a reasonable amount to pay for this? I was thinking that if I can just get a re-coed rack I'll just change it myself, but then there's no warranty where as with both I'd get 2 years

Ed
 
#6 ·
those prices are about right....i got it done for 350 cos I know people....for the EB that is

I replaced mine with a ED rack.....cost 50 bucks and i've heard the ED has a different design that the earlier ones....dont have the seals or some shit that the earlier ones did......ie dont wear out like the old ones :)

I'll double check exactly whats different
 
#7 ·
Thats not a bad price.I would get a reco unit or have your own unit rebuilt as doing the repairs yourself can be a pain in the ass.Special tools are needed and to get to the seal that is probably leaking you must detroy good parts. So it better off left to the pros for this one and you get a warranty as well.

There have been known cases of P/S steering switchs leaking that bad that it pushes the fluid up the wires and leaks onto your foot inside your car.

CYA Lukey.
 
#11 ·
Re: leak?

How hard is this to do ur self?

Our rack has gone as well, and i was thinking maybe with a bit of help we could do it ourselves..

Sundeep
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#12 ·
Re: leak?

Doesn't sound very hard according the Haynes manual, just need a torque wrench and get a wheel alignment after it. I don't think I'll do it myself tho, mainly cos it's gonna take a bit of time to do and stuffing around lieing on the ground, plus there's the warranty thing

Ed
 
#14 ·
Re: leak?

I'm not sure yet, I can't really be ****ed doin anythin at the moment. I havent looked into prices for a fully rebuilt rack either, if the difference is like $50 I wont bother with it.

If anyone knows how much just a replacement rack (rebuilt) costs and where I can get one from in Brissy could you plz let me now

Just be careful with letting everyone know ur ideas for a number plate you want too, some bastard could take the one you want before you can

Ed
 
G
#15 ·
Re: leak?

Luke, i initially though that it was the body of the switch that was leaking, but after jacking up the front end and having dad spin the wheel whilst i was underneath with a torch, it was very clear that it was the body of the rack that was leaking, where the thread is, not the switch itself. I havn't had a leak since taping it up either.

Simon
 
G
#16 ·
Re: leak?

As a temp repair I installed a bolt where the switch was...that was 2yrs ago....no adverse effect as I don't turn full lock when wheel is hard up against the kerb.
The switch apparently controls throttle movement at full lock.
 
#17 ·
Re: leak?

So does a ED rack fit right in...no troubles?

How much would a 2nd hand rack out of a wrecked EA/EB/ED cost? I don't give a shit about warranty as n e rack is prolly better than ours is lol.

My neighbour has offered help put a new rack in, so i am currently looking for a cheap one in good condition.

Sundeep
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#18 ·
Re: leak?

I got more quotes today, Pedders want $420 to supply just the rack and $564 to fit it and have a wheel alignment. Fulcrum at Nundah want $305 for an exchange rack plus a deposit if you can't give em ur rack straight away and $443.60 fitted. Repco wants $412 for a rack. I'm leaning towards just taking it to our regular mechanic cos I'm not saving much. Anyone else in Brissy know of a cheaper place on the northside?

Ed
 
#19 ·
Well........

Far enough then now and then but in your case its probably the O ring on the end of the pressure switch that is leaking not the actual switch itself.The thread tape is acting as your new O ring.Or in worse case sinareo the thread in the body of the rack has been somewhat "screwed" and maybe its sloppy when in contact with the switch.Main thing is its not leaking.


CYA Lukey.
 
#20 ·
Re: Well........

yep, ED rack fits right in. Dunno how much they are worth at a wreckers...

As for wreckers on the Northside, I aint too sure as i dont venture that far too often. Capalaba Ford are really good though, been there a few times and I know Brent is a fairly regular customer
 
#21 ·
Re: Well........

Hey,

We just had a second hand rack fitted, with 2 month warranty....for ....wait for it....$150!

Thanks for the tip AcidBurns!

Sundeep
members.optusnet.com.au/sundeep86
 
#22 ·
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've got a reconditioned rack, $250 with 15 month warranty from the virginia wreckers on zillmere rd. I've got everything undone except those ****ing damn bolts holding the actual rack to the body of the car!! it's a ****en shitter cos I dont have a damn socket that will fit onto my breaker bar. All I need to know is which way to undo the bolts, I'm trying to undo them anti-clockwise, plz tell me if this is wrong!! and also, just a q with the tie rod ends, whats the best way of putting them on the new rack so that they are in the right position????

Ed
 
#23 ·
Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well the damn thing is on, after a day and half of ****en around with it it's done. The damn bastards had put lock-tite or whatever its called on the bolts holding the rack on, absolute bitch to get off, I had to fully bash the spanner with a hammer on the passenger side and fully bash the breaker bar on the drivers side and ended up fully bashing my hand for them to come undone. Other than that it was pretty easy, only other lil difficulty was gettin the wheels lined up properly, I eventually figured out how to adjust it but even tho it visually looks right its far from it while driving, while braking there is a severe pull to the left. The car drives in a straight line if you let go of the wheel but the wheel is slightly turned to the left. I'm thinking the left wheel must be turned to the left or somethin.

I think I had totally ****ed the old rack, when I drained out the fluid there was lil bits of metal shavings in the fluid. And not only was the rack leaking but the damn switch is leaking aswell, not at the thread but out of the end where the wiring connecter goes on. Absolute ****ing bitch, so far it's cost us the same as what it would of cost if we took it somewhere, but that is cos we bought a new socket set which was $170 and a 2 jaw puller thing to get the tie-rods off, and we still need to get a new damn switch and get a wheel alignment. ****ing cars

Ed
 
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