- first thigs first... its done a rear main seal :( anyone had one of these replaced before on a 5 litre?? how much am i looking at?? around $400?? (my folks dont want me to buy it coz of this as they reckon it might be a lot more than that)
power steering pump has started leaking aperantly ist isnt too bad - wats a seccond handie cost?
the self leveling system has shit itself (already knew that tho)
getting it ripped out and whack some normal springs and shocks in there
other than that, she is all good :) just bushes and shit the usual things associated with an 11 year old car that has never had a spanner on the suspension
other things it neads are
2 power window motors (probly get some seccond handies for now just to get roadworthy will eventually replace em all with new ones)
a right front blinker (ive got 1 at work will get it in monday)
a right hand tail light - what they worth??
the brakes shudder - is this just the discs telling me they need a machine or something worse??
its got a tiny bit of rust behind the left rear door - will get to that soon but its not a RWC problem
now ive got 2 grand to spend on it from the sale of my ute. i reckon i will be able to get all of the above done for less than that
that dont sound to bad at all, it looked really nice so why not go for it, my ea was worse when i got it, i had to replace the head, water pump, get 3 speed rebuilt, plus had the nearly whole cooling system replaced. just in repairs i spent about $3,500, plus i spent alot more on mods on top of that, you s my car today and it looks pretty good dont u think so imagine what u could get the NC looking like
To answer one question, the brake shudder probably only needs machining which costs about $50 for the front wheels, but that is assuming that the discs are not below the minimum thickness legally allowed.
Jack Travis, E-Series Acting President
1989 Ford Fairmont Ghia turbo/GL replica (underway)
1994 Eunos 800M
1990 Ford Laser S
either fish oil or just cavity wax, its what we use at work and it doesn't smell as bad as fish oil, btw drainage holes = BAD dont do it, just try and put a rust preventive down there, and then fill with cavity wax and make sure the inside of the rear quater in the wheel well isn't rusted(happened to me)
My NB had rust in the same place on the driver's side. The foam insulation there gets wet an rotten, plugs the drain hole and retains the water. I pulled out the wet rotten spongey foam, spraayed in the deodorised fish oil and replaced it with the spray can cavity filler stuff. I placed some plastic tubing in the drain holes first and removed it before the foam fully hardened so there was a hole from the top of the foam to the drain hole in the sill. If was a bit messy I would try some larger diameter poly pipe and leave it in place if I did this again. I also sealed up the bits in the rear wheel wells where the water was getting in.
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