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Can anyone tell me if the 92 EB 5-Ltr has a "purge canister" and where it's located ?
I sometimes have fuel vapours through the aircon system on hot days and FORD tell me to fix the problem they run a tube from the purge canister to the air intake.
Replace the one-way valve just above the left hand chassis rail and check the tubes are all connected. My car was doing the exact same thing.
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I have the same problem with my car at the moment ,I removed the purge valve(wasnt opening with 12v) from the inlet manifold,so i had constant vacum from the tank(bypassed the charcole canister)still the same smell,remove the valve in the fuel cap to reduce vacum/presure in the tank,so Im open to offers my self on this one,Im nearly ready to replace all the supply and return lines to eliminate this as well,then the tank will be replaced ,I cant see any visable leaks in the system
Hey guys, does this 'purge tank' have anything to do with the vacuum operation of the climate control system ie. a vacuum tank? I've been having trouble with the floor/vent/demist operation and am stumped at why the airflow won't change direction
The problem started directy after I had the Windsor rebuilt and yeah, I sometimes smell fuel on hot days too!
Your advice would be appreciated.
Mike
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The charcoal cannister is for holding petrol fumes from the tank, it is then purged into the inlet when the car reaches a certain operating temperature. It should not have anything to do with the climate control system.
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As A.P said the solanoid that connects to the flex hoses behind left head lights up to inlet,canister under guard / follows fuel line near power steering radiator hose [top]. Often stuffs up leaving the purge canister to purch to atmospher.
Actually this can make the engine run rough for the o2 sensers think engine is running rich..
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Check the small plastic pipes that run along the firewall behind inlet / throttle body. I think they are green the other red ??? They connect to the inlet plenum under inlet...
Follow the small pipe from the egr switch on drivers inner guard /shock mount & around the back of inlet..Make sure all connections are made, they come apart easy or can be left off!!...
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Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic!
.
Tuned & maintained by "Peppertree Perfmormance". Dart block, Scat 4340 steel crank, Custom C.P pistons.Oliver rods.. Mal Wood twin plate clutch.. Twin SC61/2's,482 rwkw/ 645 rwhp..
Passengers, myocardial infarction material..
R.I.P Possum...
The Charcoal canister can become saturated when conditions for purge are not met ie: too much light load cruising or idling(eg; heavy traffic and/or driving slow all the time and in warm weather).
Things to do apart from checking that the hoses and solenoid is ok;
Give it more stick....ie medium to heavy acceleration.
Get rid of things that cause heat soak into the fuel eg; that poxy hotplate on top of the engine for starters, shield your fuel lines from heat that your headers may give off etc.
Take out the canister and leave it in the sun for a day.
You could even fit another canister and have twice the vapour capacity(like on the F-series).
I have the same problem with my ute but I have several reasons that make it worse;
Bosch Motorsport pump sucking from a surge tank. This thing gets hot because it is not immersed in fuel and pushes 400L/hr of fuel up to the engine most of which is returned hotter than it left. Then of course it returns to the surge tank making that fuel hotter and compounding the problem. My next trick will be to get an XG tank and make the Bosch pump fit inside that and use two charcoal canisters. I may also make a PWM speed controller for the pump to drop it's speed when at light loads..that way less fuel gets returned to the tank therefore it can't heat up the remaining fuel in the tank.
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