Hey everyone , I just got myself a 1994 ED Gli with factory manual. During changes the revs fall quickly back to idle so the shifts get quite rough when changing slowly (when letting clutch out again). My brothers EB1 doesn’t have this problem , the revs hang around 1300rpm for about 3 seconds then drop back to idle he tells me that there is a sensor/switch that im missing that screws into the pedal box that will control the high idle revs or reduce rev drop when clutch is depressed. My question is what is this sensor called and are they easy to get hold of at wreckers or new from ford, also how much are they?
Im not too sure about the sensor, but I have the same dramas, although mine is auto, the revs drop really low between shifts, turns out my ISC isnt working...might be worth a look?
If it idles slowely when you start in the morning then gets higher as the car warms it is probably a faulty isc. When i did a mpi conversion for a while I had no isc and it did the same as you describe. If you want to do a quick test, start the car and pull the plug out (the ICS is mounted on top of the throttle and has a whit plug with 2 wires coming from it with a cloth sort of coating). If the revs change the ICS is working if not then its not working.
After I got it working in mine it was 10 times nicer to drive.
ah sorry, I misread the original post. I dont know if it was only cruise control equiped cars that had the clutch switch, but if it is missing the part will be avalible from ford and there should be an empty plug for it hanging somewhere
My EA S is factory manual and has the Switch on the clutch pedal. Checking the wiring diagram in my gregories shows its linked in big time, in place of the in gear switch on auto's.
Makes sense to have it there! When i got my car the switch was moved out of place, so i put it back. Didn't like the higher revs between gear changes (slowly down wasn't as dramatic) so i've disconnected it.
I can put up with rougher gear changes.. especially considering my clutch is fubar anyway
went to ford today and asked them about the switch and they said there is only one switch on the clutch and it is for cruise control - so im confused , is this the switch i need?
Part number is FZZ9A837A , cost is $112!
I dont want to buy this is it isnt the switch i need!
eskyboi can i buy you switch off you if you dont use it?!?!?!?
The idle speed isnt my problem , the car idles fine. The probem is when im changing up from , say, 2200rpm as soon as i dip the clutch and select 2nd and let the clutch out again the RPM is back at the idle speed (800rpm), hence the clutch has to speed up the engine , so the change is rough....
Do all 4.0L have quick dropping revs from say 2500rpm?
As i have also got a cracked pedel box Im not completely sure that the pedel is returning enough to activate the switch> I have no drivability issues. Im going to disconnect it and take it for a drive later SO ill come back and tell you what it did.
I think it is the switch thats your prob. I unhooked mine and it does drop quick. Say in 4th gar the revs drop enough to match 5th gear when you get there but without the switch they drop instantly.
My XF EFI manual has a switch, no cruise though, and if i'm driving down the road, then back off, if I push the clutch in the tiniest bit, the engine slows the car a lot quicker.
OK, I found out tomnite the ed didnt have the clutch switch. Something you can do is post the part number for your ecu. What might have happened is the ecu may have been swapped for an EB one. If the eb one is looking for the switch thats your prob. The ed one will have it programed to run without the switch.
thats your problem right there - not your actual idle air controller, but your BASE idle!
put the car in diagnostic mode when its nice and hot, (turn it off, short out the two far left hand side pins on the ALDL connector) then start it up with the IAC disconnected (if the car will idle) wind the idle screw in until the car idles at about 750rpm then turn it off, unshort the connector and reconnect the IAC.
if you have done it right i bet you any money the car is heaps better to drive!
shoudnt it technically idle faster if the car is cold? I always thought part of the ISC's job was to kick to idle up when cold to promote faster warm up etc then drop it down once it has reached operating temp, obviously the rich mixture when cold will come into it as well but yeah
What do the Revs do when the air-con is switched on?
thats your problem right there - not your actual idle air controller, but your BASE idle!
put the car in diagnostic mode when its nice and hot, (turn it off, short out the two far left hand side pins on the ALDL connector) then start it up with the IAC disconnected (if the car will idle) wind the idle screw in until the car idles at about 750rpm then turn it off, unshort the connector and reconnect the IAC.
if you have done it right i bet you any money the car is heaps better to drive!
righttttttt , that sounds complicated!
Afew questions - whats the ALDL conector? IAC is the ISC yes?
Can shorting the ALDL do damage? what do i use , a paperclip?
thanks
james
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