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Sluggish and fuel delivery prob???? Or not....

3K views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  galapogos01 
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#1 ·
Just recently began driving an EA 5 spd..... and here's a problem which SOUNDS like a fuel delivery problem, but me not being an injected engine specialist (always had carbied cars) I could be way off.

Sometimes, it will accelerate normally, not bad! Occassionally I get this sluggish feel, a bumpy "pull-pull" type as if it isn't getting enough fuel or is getting it uneven. Kind of stunts the acceleration etc.... is this an injection problem and is it common (and hence, easy to fix)?

Your thoughts are appreciated! H
 
G
#3 ·
hmmmm

I'll do the feul pressure test.... let me explain a little more - most of the time it pulls fine, sometimes it starts pulling then gets all sluggish in spurts, kinda rough, most often when I level out the revs.

thanks for the advice, I'll do pressure test, but has anyone had similar probs? H
 
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#4 ·
Injectors

I have an EB and when i first got it it was only running on petrol (mine is pet/lpg). And even on petrol was running rough. Got the injectors fixed for $150 and ever since then she has been running beautifully
 
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#5 ·
Re: Injectors

HEA,
My EA all of the sudden got this weird hesitation under load, it was getting worse and worse... turned out to be the ignition system (leads + cap). So check those if you can't find it...
 
#6 ·
Like you I also have this prob and found that if I floor it then the prob goes away.?? why I am unsure as like you I have also only had carbies.

I drive a 3.9 with 5 speed.

So far I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, had the injectors checked and cleaned, replaced the dissy cap, leads and plugs.

It is dual fuel, and when on gas no probs, this would automatically eliminate electrics.

The only thing really left is to do a pressure test on the fuel line, but like most things it will have to wait until the cash is there.

Hope this will help eliminate some of the uncertanties for you.

Joe... :))
 
G
#9 ·
?

That's some good info to get me going.... fuel filter is near new.

And yeah, under load it sometimes hesitates (3.9 5 spd also). also, when I back off it tends to shudder at times and gets very rough.... so sounds similar to some other probs here.... I'll start with some of the checks, fixes etc mentioned here, and pay for what I can't do I guess.

Anyone recommend any injector places or will standard mechanics have enough of a clue? (score one point carbies, just get in there and pry around, wish it were so easy!)

Thanks heaps, and any more ideas, DO post em! HEA
 
#11 ·
Re: TPS

sounds similar to the problem I have...if anyone can help me with this I'll be stoked! The car seems to be misfiring under acceleration during the higher rpm's (>3000rpm). Today I changed the spark plugs and drove it home from work....It was still doing it. I changed the leads tonight and am yet to drive it. The catch is, it only does it when the car is hot. Say after driving it for around half an hour. Anytime before that you can rev it to 5000+ and it doesn't miss a beat. I'm not 100% sure that is is misfiring, it could be another problem, but it kinda 'bunny hops' and the tacho needle jumps all over the place....it makes kind of a muffled popping sound...like a muffled backfire.

The mechanics said it could be the dizzy or the coil which he says tend to play up sometimes when they get hot. I'm guessing it's the dizzy if anything cause I changed that when the MPI went in...the coil was left alone.
 
G
#12 ·
!!!!!!!

Sphell - mine is EXACT same problem!!! When it's cold, no dramas at all, but once it warms up after maybe 30 mins of driving gets worse. Bunny hops likes yours, and when I back off the revs is when it feels like it's hopping and shaking all over the place.

I will likewise be MASSIVELY stoked if anyone can diagnose this problem correctly - save me buggering around with everything under the sun and a)wasting heaps of time while I'm trying to sell another Ford and b)spending money on shit that just aint broke!!! hehe

THANKS!!! HEA
 
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#15 ·
Re: !!!!!!!

Have had a similar problem...especially evident on gas.....turned out to be the small crack in the coil which opened up when engine got hotter.....was told it was a common fault due to the coil bracket flex...and the moisture that could enter it.
changed the coil..(shit job)....and all is well.
 
#16 ·
Ok for starters have you priced a TFI module? These can **** up when hot and work fine when just at operationing temp.They can also be intermitant in there operation.This is the small grey module on the side of the dizzy with 4 wires going to it held in by 2 screws.The dizzy has not many other parts that can stuff up the hall effect either works or not or there is a bent shaft.

Try also a dump and relearn of your memory in the ECU.Most of you have changed your fuel of ignition system from old crappy parts to new.Your computer thinks its still working on old parts and does not no its has new parts to play with.By dumping the memory the ECU's parameters are set to there extremes and have the room to learn there new parts instead of the small parameter set by the old ones.

Dissconnect the battery with car at operating temp and press your foot on brake pedal to kill capacitor charge.Turn A/C off P/S straight line.Re-connect the battery turn start car.Your base idle might have to be reset as well.Drive your car under all conditions crusie idle accerlating e.t.c.A/C on off.

Goodluck.

CYA Lukey.
 
#17 ·
HEA, I took my car down the mechanics this morning cause he said it was probably the dizzy since i changed it when i did the MPI conversion. Anyway, they put a new Bosch dizzy in and I drove it home (over a half hour drive) and it didn't miss a beat. BUT, the car has absoloutely NO power! It is fully shit. I can dump the clutch at about 3800rpm and it just bogs down and almost stalls. Yesterday, with the old dizzy if i had have done that the wheels would just smoke.

I dunno how they've set the timing but I've got the day off tomorrow so I'm gonna have a play with it. Would this mean they've retarded the ignition? What the hell does retarding the ignition mean anyway? Does it mean the plug fires when the piston's already on the way down or something?
 
#18 ·
you would think anyone would check the timing after putting a new dissy in. check it with the timing like and make sure its at the ign mark.
yep retarding it makes it fire later, which is clockwise of the tdc mark. not many people would want to retard the timing.
 
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#19 ·
never priced a TFI for a falcon, but a Corolla 4 cyl one is around $100. A friend of mine had to replace one coming back from Eildon mid winterlast year, with me... not good...


Apparently the VN (I think) requires two, due to V nature or something and they're about $100-200 EACH!

Simon
 
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#20 ·
Guys, let me tell you about my experiences with the IGN system. When i got my MPI conversion, the stoopid ****kers didnt wire my loom correctly! Aswell, they didnt adjust the dizzy either. What would happen was that it would start hard and after finally starting, it would idle up and down between 1000 and about 200rpm... after it got warmer it would idle correctly. So after about 2mins of driving when the engine got to N.O.T.. My ECU would skitz and would revv the engine very rapidly between 3000rpm and 200rpm. This would go on for about a minute and then return too normal idle. Thru all this, the car was as gutless as hell! Turns out that they had stuffed the wiring and had wired pin 56 to pin 29 and 49. So i had an ignition PIP signal on both my O2 input and O2 ground wires. I have no idea how the engine would even start. The ECU must have been trying too adjust to the signals on the O2 sensor and the weak (almost grounded) signal from the TFI module. So if yer getting shit all power, definately check yer TFI module and timing...

Brent
 
#21 ·
WORTHWHILE INVESTMENT....

Today i bought a timing light after about 3 attempts to set the timing without one and finally cracking the shits. I had to re-set the timing cause the mechanics stuffed it up and the car had no power (see previous post).

I had already set the base timing and after using the timing light, found that this setting had the ignition retarded by quite a bit. The car would start but would only stay running if you had the accelerator depressed. So in the end it was just a matter of hooking up the timing light, putting the ECU into a timing test mode and twisting the dizzy until the 'V' groove on the balancer lined up with the IGN mark on the crankcase. Now the car runs perfectly!

I guess the moral of the storey is having the right tools makes the job a hell of a lot easier! If only I bought it straight off, I wouldn't have wasted half of my RDO pulling the dizzy in/out.
 
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