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Old 04-23-2003, 07:58   #1 (permalink)
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confused some probs with na fairlane

HI.
i just brought my g/f a na fairlane 1989 model as a furture family car and noticed a few faults with it.

sometimes the car wont start in the morn, yet at night she turns it off normal
when it happens ushally jumpstarting it gets it going.
it has a brand new battery

the heater puts out no heat, and theres no gas in the air conditioning

the dash light, "check suppession" comes on now and again, yet looking at the rear suppession, the shocks are standed (no hoses or anything).

the most annoying prob is the clock and trip computer unit with the reset buttons etc dosent light up and neither dos the door warning unit in the actual dash (that shows if a door is open).
the car is on gas.

is there anything that i should be taking note off with this car?

My daily driver was a 65xp so its all a bit new to me
thanks in advance, gavin (the ferret)
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Old 04-23-2003, 13:11   #2 (permalink)
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The starting problem needs attention first, the rest is just cosmetic.

Get a digital multimeter from Dick Smith or somewhere ($20) and check the battery voltage, should be round about 12.5 volts. (12v and the battery is nearly flat).

When the car is running, test the voltage at the battery posts, should be around 14 -14.5 volts, if it is lower than this, your alternator is crap.

If that is OK, check for a parasitic draw on the battery - undo the neg cable on the battery and with a test light connect the cable, through the light to the battery post. If the light shines, you have a parasitic draw on the battery, you then start pulling fuses till the light goes out, that fuse will indicate the faulty circuit.

Try that first and let us know how you get on.
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Old 04-23-2003, 14:10   #3 (permalink)
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I agree with top on starting problem. It also could be starter motor poling out and drawing to much current for a cold battery.
The heater probelm could be what they call the blend door motor in the heater case. to test this turn the ign on and press the floor and off buttons on a/c control simultaneously and release all of display should come on.
after a short time the display will ether go to off or read a code E2 is for blend door motor. the dash needs to be removed to fix this.
It may also be blocked heater hoses or tap.
With the suspension light coming on when the pump up suspension is replaced with standard system the silver circuit braker in the fuse box needs to be removed. This the top silver one this will turn the light out.
The trip computer and door waring are just likly to be bulbs blown these are replacable by removing the units to get at the back of them. The bulbs are avalble from most auto stores or ford dealers.
Use fuel on a reguler basis as it will block the injectors and damage fuel pump and tank.

All this from 23 years as ford mechanic (factory trained) now with own buisness working on fords every day. ILOVE THEM.
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Old 04-24-2003, 01:43   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
All this from 23 years as ford mechanic (factory trained)
Welcome Ian, stick around, your knowledge will be a lot of help.
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Old 04-24-2003, 02:59   #5 (permalink)
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thanks for the tips, looks like its a busy weekend for me again:)how do i remove the clock to get to the globe?
do i remove the whole dash to replace the globe in the door warning?
how do i identify the blender door?
sorry for the questions but im a newie
is there a post on the web somewhere for a wiring diagram?
thanks
gavin
(p.s., is the na a good car or should i have brought a ea instead?
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Old 04-24-2003, 04:16   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ferret`s NA
thanks for the tips, looks like its a busy weekend for me again:)how do i remove the clock to get to the globe?
do i remove the whole dash to replace the globe in the door warning?
how do i identify the blender door?
sorry for the questions but im a newie
is there a post on the web somewhere for a wiring diagram?
thanks
gavin
(p.s., is the na a good car or should i have brought a ea instead?
NA and EA are peas in a pod matey

I can help with one question. To remove the trip computer, you need to unscrew the dash panel surrounding it. From memory, this requires taking off the panel surrounding the casette deck as well as the plastic around the instrument cluster (which you'll do anyway to remove the cluster) to access the 4 or so screws. The trip computer just clips on I think. The face of the trip computer clips onto the rest of the unit, and with it off, the bulb inside will be visible. Be sure to test that the replaced globe works before putting the dash back together.
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Old 04-24-2003, 05:33   #7 (permalink)
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If the "Check Supsension" light only comes on now and again I suspect you still have the adjustable shocks and the have a slow leak or a poor connection in the wiring harness near the diff. The nylon pipes come from the very top of the shocks inside the car; you won't see them looking under the car you have to put the rear seats down and remove the boot lining over the shock towers. If you flick the door light switch on the driver's side A pillar 3 times in 1 second with the ignition on, the self levelling supsension will go through a self test procedure that takes about a minute. While this is happening the suspension should raise and lower and you should hear the compressor inside the right front wheel arch running. At the end of the test the "check suspension" light will flash several times. Count the flashes and post here and we can tell you what this error code means.
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Old 04-24-2003, 22:31   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by IAN SCHMIDT

All this from 23 years as ford mechanic (factory trained) now with own buisness working on fords every day. ILOVE THEM.

Welcome to the family
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Old 04-26-2003, 22:38   #9 (permalink)
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thanks for inportant tips

Hi,
thanks for the tips.
will try when g/friend comes home with car
i would of probally been paying a "mechanic" to do all the tips that all of you have posted.
the heater prob, with pressing the 2 buttons make all the buttons light op, then a sound like a suction, then the display says off.
there is a vacum tube in the engind bay near the starter motor that i think may go into the firewall somewhere but cant find a hole anywhere.
im going to replace all three mufflers from behind the cat, (they have more holes in them then in my socks), but want a bit more sporty sounding exhaust, without extractors.
any ideas?? as i dont want to get sucked into anything from the exhaust dude that i dont need.
thanks again,
gavin
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Old 04-26-2003, 23:09   #10 (permalink)
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ferret the black tube normally goes from the vaccum out let at the back of the manifold to inside dash if this is of all air will blow though screen vents only.
green hose goes to heater tap. third short hose is not used. if no code came up blend door motor is ok.
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