Starting problems - Ford Forums

SPHELL · 07-02-2003, 06:38

Recently my car has become hard to start. If you try to start it when it's cold it just cranks over for ages before it finally coughs and splutters and *barely* starts. If you don't rev it when it does start, the revs will fluctuate between 100-500rpm for about 30 secs before the ECU kicks in and gives it some more fuel. Once it is warm it seems to idle ok.

I've worked out that if I prime the fuel rail turning it to ignition 3-4 times when it's cold it will start first go but still rev up and down for a bit.

Could this be my fuel pump? Or would it have something to do with the fuel pressure reg? It's not a dirty fuel filter cause I changed that the other day and it's still doing it.

I have recently installed an autometer air/fuel ratio gauge that shows whether the car is running lean, stoich, or rich. It says in the instructions that when you have wide open throttle the LED's should swing around to 'rich'. But when I floor it, it barely even reaches the rich mark and stays at the edge of the 'stoich' area. So it seems the car's running too lean from lack of fuel.

Any ideas? thanks.

LoverBoy · 07-02-2003, 07:59

Well my ED's idle was similar before I got a new fuel pump (as in it stalled a few times). It seems OK now but still a bit low when cold, I think I just need a new fuel filter, I'm getting a service soon so I hope it's that.
I dunno man but that's just my experience.
PS: Nice to see you online for a change

Mason.

jjj · 07-02-2003, 16:54

Might need a new battery?? Although I had a similar problem with my car, sounds like it is your ISC not kicking up on a cold start due to an intimitent fault on an ecu management component. First clean your ECU pins, check coolant and oxygen sensor as per gregorgys manual. Also it could be your crank angle sensor(hall sensor) or your TFI module or your coil starting to play up. Have fun! being a ford it could be anything! When i had the starting problem and intimitent cut outs i thought it was fuel supply problem because if I turned the key 4times it would start first go but i was wrong. It turned out to be the dizzy and dirty pins on the ecu!!

old_mate · 07-03-2003, 03:53

Im assuming your running a cam Doug.....the cam could be a consideration?

jjj · 07-03-2003, 21:58

Another thing is check the voltage output of your TPS. Pin 47 on ECU (1Vclosed throttle) and (4.5Vopen throttle). It needs to be on 1V on closed throttle, mine was on 0.6V and it made the ISC do wierd things at start up( high revs intially then the car would sometimes drive itself and stay at 1500rpm. Loosen screws and turn to get 1Volt.

SPHELL · 07-09-2003, 01:24

thanks for the suggestions guys. I ended up buying a new fuel pump last week and was suprised to find that it was twice the size of the existing pump! The old fuel pump was out of an MPI EA too! They must have put the wrong one in.

Anyway, now it starts first go but it will usually stall unless it give it throttle. It still runs very roughly when its cold too.

sikEA, I am running a cam but I don't think it would be that because when it's warm it idles fine (about 500-550rpm). I adjusted the idle control screw when I installed the cam.

I think i'll just have to check all the sensors etc.....yay..can't wait :(

mongrelEB · 07-09-2003, 05:10

500-550's a bit low, should be closer to 700 really. This could be why its dying cold IMO

gmanEA · 07-09-2003, 05:40

Is there way to definitely know your fuel pump needs replacing without just going out and buying one ?

SPHELL · 07-14-2003, 04:30

what do manual EA's usually idle at? Ive just always had it at 550rpm cause that's what it was when the car was an auto.

mongrelEB · 07-14-2003, 16:39

They idle at 750, should be written under your bonnet I think.
The auto was idling at 500 in drive, correct?
That is because of the load placed on the motor by the gearbox. If it was in neutral, somebody had it wrong I'd suggest.
You might try cleaning your ISC and putting the idle speed back up, one or the other should fix it...