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Old 09-05-2002, 19:37   #1 (permalink)
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Question Timing Cover Leaks on 4.0

My EB2 4.0 is leaking from the sump gasket, timing cover, and possibly rear main seal. I sometimes wonder, looking at these EA-ED cars, why Ford bothered putting gaskets in there at all.....

Anyhow, from what I can see, it looks like the head has to come off for the timing cover leak, and the engine has to come out (or a lot of stuffing around with jacking the engine and lowering the crossmember) to do the sump.

Anyone done these jobs and have a plan for me?
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Old 09-05-2002, 20:44   #2 (permalink)
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Yes I have done those jobs and all i can say is, have fun
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Old 09-05-2002, 20:51   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by donuts2001
Yes I have done those jobs and all i can say is, have fun
So, does the head have to come off?
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Old 09-05-2002, 21:00   #4 (permalink)
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AP,

Have a look for this blue gasket sealer, and aparently, there is actually an updated gasket kit for these EBs EDs which doesn't leak. This Japanese Honda or Toyota "blue" gasket sealer is the go if you can get your hands on some.

Don't think the head has to come off (if it does, get a set of new bolts because they stretch a bit and can warp the head if re-fitted - $90 a set, might as well put a new gasket on there too and save yourself the time fruther down the track) but never done it myself. Hope that's kind of helpful.
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Old 09-05-2002, 22:42   #5 (permalink)
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Either the Head or the Sump needs to come off for removal of the timing cover. You get to pick

Sump can come out with just unbolting the engine mounts and jacking up the front of the engine.

Oh and I havnt done either, so I am just go by what ive been told....:oo1:
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Old 09-06-2002, 00:26   #6 (permalink)
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The head has to come off because the head is what is holding the timing cover gasket at the top on. I'm guessing it's leaking at the front along the join between the head and block? The rubber seal along there turns hard with the heat and also shrinks a little I think(thats what mine was likewhen I pulled it off) so thats why they start leaking oil.

The head removal is pretty simple, it's the disconnecting the other crap attached to it that will waste most your time.

The oil sump one means your gonna have to take the motor out anyways, and it's pretty easy but has a shitload of bolts holding it on(about 40 I think) so either you'll need a rattle gun to take them off quickly, or you should get a friend to help take them all off.
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Old 09-06-2002, 03:51   #7 (permalink)
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Mate, take it from someone who has been there and done that. I STRONGLY suggest you remove the sump to change the timing case gasket rather then the head. You will find that as soon as you unbolt and remove the timing case, the lower chain guide will fall into the sump... not a good thing.

Trying to get the thing back out is nearly impossible, and putting the case back on with the sump in position is a nightmare.

I suggest the following.

Raise the engine as much as possible. Unbolt the sump and drop it down. Then unbolt the timing case (Not to mention about 2 million other things that are in the way). You don't need to be too fussed abut keeping the chain in position as with the case off, you can re set the timing marks anyhow.

You may also find that once the timing case is off, the chain guides might need replacing. Also, if you are thinking of changing the cam in the future (Unless u have already done it) now would be a good time to install a variable cam gear.

Once its all been cleaned up, with all the oil & grease removed, bolt up the timing case first, so it presses up hard against the bottom of the head, and don’t be shy with the gasket sealer.

Then do the sump, drop the engine and walla.

You should be able to do it all for around $100.

On the other hand, I Can’t help ya too much with the rear main tho.

Good Luck
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Old 09-06-2002, 09:16   #8 (permalink)
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Bass, if it's the top timing cover seal that has gone(like what happened to mine) taking all the timing cover stuff off I would consider to be even harder then taking the head off. He'll be able to give a head gasket change while he's at it.

Hmm.. and on another note has anyone seen the head gaskets for the EA's? They have a tiny hole a little bigger then the width of a match for the water to go through and the water jacket it actually connects to is about the size of a 10 cent piece(well size wise as they aren't round). At first I thought my water jacket had rusted up as there was this tiny little hole with all this rust around it, but soon realised it was only the gasket that had rust on it not the water jacket. According to the dude at autobahn they put a small hole in them to slow the water down and equalise pressure better. Seems very dodgy, as should a bit of rust flake ever get stuck in one of the holes it's blown head time. Does anyone know if other cars have head gasket like that?
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Old 09-06-2002, 19:23   #9 (permalink)
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Yes a fair few different cars have smaller waterways in the head gasket compared to the actual gallery in the head or block.

in most cases it is to help stabilise pressure but I know in the escorts it was used to "slow" down the water rate for more efficient cooling.

( if water passes too quickly through the galleries etc it has less time to "absorb" heat )
on the other hand if it goes too slow ( like u said about the rust flake blocking the hole ) she'll overheat for sure.

maybe you should have a talk to ford about it and see if they would recommend opening up the hole a little.
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Old 09-07-2002, 01:39   #10 (permalink)
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"My EB2 4.0 is leaking from the sump gasket, timing cover, and possibly rear main seal. I sometimes wonder, looking at these EA-ED cars, why Ford bothered putting gaskets in there at all....."

LOL ... I feel your pain...
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