steering arm(te v8) - Ford Forums

dicast · 12-31-2004, 18:12

hey happy new year people.i need to know from the guys that have done a v8 conversion on a te.the rubber flexible joint on the steering arm would this melt with the exhaust as it looks prety darn close to were extractors need to go.also do you realy need to have the rubber joint on the arm or can you run without it as i have made a steering arm from a old one that doesnt run a flexible joint.

EFIV8TE · 12-31-2004, 20:30

I know what u mean. I emailed CRS in relation to this and they replied that they have not had any negative feedback from anything happening. (whether they lived to give the feedback is another thing???)
The assured me it's all good. What steering arm system have you used?

brenx · 12-31-2004, 20:41

No there is no issue with it believe it or not. On a TE I did we had to dint/knock in a header pipe when using the CRS kit. Starter motors where even more fun but a clacker type worked well.

It does suprise me that it doesn't melt. Its probably due to airflow in the bay?

Brenden

dicast · 01-03-2005, 00:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by EFIV8TE

I know what u mean. I emailed CRS in relation to this and they replied that they have not had any negative feedback from anything happening. (whether they lived to give the feedback is another thing???)
The assured me it's all good. What steering arm system have you used?

all i did was cut out the flexi joint using the same steel tubing and put bolts through.the bolts in the pics wont be used as there not hi tensile.but what i am going to do is get a block of steel to go between dilled out for the bolts for strength.im not sure if its strong enough??

YES302 · 01-04-2005, 00:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by dicast

all i did was cut out the flexi joint using the same steel tubing and put bolts through.the bolts in the pics wont be used as there not hi tensile.but what i am going to do is get a block of steel to go between dilled out for the bolts for strength.im not sure if its strong enough??

when i first did mine i made the bottom solid same as you have but due to the very slight angle between the steering arm and the rack the steering was very notchy eg it had a bump every 180deg it wasnt very noticeable because of the power steer but eventually it chewed out the bearing in the steering rack so i used a 12mm thick flexi joint from a xc falc and tried it without the power steer belt on and hey presto no more notchy steering....if id only used the flex joint in the first place ($5 from payless) i would have saved $300 for the recoed rack AND THE BLOODY LABOUR OF PULLING THE BASTARD MOTOR TO REPLACE THE BASTARD STEERIN RACK!i hate xpensive lessons.....

dicast · 01-04-2005, 01:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by YES302

when i first did mine i made the bottom solid same as you have but due to the very slight angle between the steering arm and the rack the steering was very notchy eg it had a bump every 180deg it wasnt very noticeable because of the power steer but eventually it chewed out the bearing in the steering rack so i used a 12mm thick flexi joint from a xc falc and tried it without the power steer belt on and hey presto no more notchy steering....if id only used the flex joint in the first place ($5 from payless) i would have saved $300 for the recoed rack AND THE BLOODY LABOUR OF PULLING THE BASTARD MOTOR TO REPLACE THE BASTARD STEERIN RACK!i hate xpensive lessons.....

i hate when people prove me wrong.my mate said the same thing that it might chew the rack out and i told him he was crazy.so plan b might be just to try and heatshield the rubber coupling some how