I was just wondering what is involved in swapping the original 3sp auto in a 1974 TC Corty for a 4sp manual unit. I already have the gearbox, its a 4sp Borg Warner.
If possible, could someone list everything that is required. Theres no rush, as its going to go behind my 250-2v that im getting sometime this week! It needs a rebuild, so its going to get toughened up a bit Then go into the Corty, with the manual behind it. I originaly wanted a 5sp, but the 4sp is in the garage already, so why not!
I myself was contemplating swapping the auto in my TC with a manual unit from another cortina, until my hot rodding buddies talked me out of it. If the borg warner you have is not from a cortina, then chances are that the gearshift will be back closer to the handbrake, which ultimately means that you’d have to get the old grinder out to cut out a new hole in the floor, and the handbrake may have to be modified so it doesn’t foul up with the gearshift. If the gearbox is from a corty, then the gearstick should fit through the existing hole. I think the things required for the job are- clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and spigget bearing, pedal box, clutch cable and assembly, and possibly a different prop shaft and crossmember, and that’s probably about it.
I hope that was of some assistance, although don’t rely on this info too much as it may not be 100% correct. I am only a young bloke who derived this info after doing my own research, ringing around wreckers and talking to mechanics, so the information I received may not entirely be correct.
The high compression pre-crossflow 250 came out with 150fwhp, while the 250 with the 2v head came out with factory 170fwhp. Putting this through the transmission though you lose some of this, especially with an auto. Putting a manual behind it will give me back some of my "lost" power.
So with extractors, larger exhaust, port and polish, larger valves, better/bigger cam and the possiblity of different pistons, i should be able to make 200rwhp... hopefully.
Autos take roughly 25% of the motors power, while manuals take around 16%. Using these figures you can roughly work out how much power will be getting to the rear wheels (You also have to factor in the power that the diff takes out, but im not sure how much they take out). 200hp sounds very healthy. Wouldn't mind mine having that sort of power. Although im only on my P's, and with only four demerit points to play with, the stock 250 is powerful enough.
From what i hear, they get up and go without the triple SU's, and with them, it makes them go even harder.
Not the easiest thing to find, especially if you want the inlet manifold, and original carby to do with that. Ive got one on order (just waiting to pick it up), and im paying $600, thats w/ a complete engine, auto trans and full exhaust.
Most of the ones i see on eBay or whatever go for anywhere between $500 - $1500
If you want some info, check out this thread. 2v head's
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