Ford Cortina ForumForum for discussion of the Ford Cortina.
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ok, I have decided to go all out with the cortina this time, so I have a motor on the way, and am sticking with the 'loader( I know it'll be faster with an auto, but its originally a top loader cortina..
here's some specs...
-EFI crossflow with heaps of head work, 200 rods, big cam(3500-7500 quoted rpm range) balanced etc etc
-750 hp holset turbo
-front mount 'cooler
-big injectors, microtech, fuel system etc
-big clutch etc...
The aim is to make 250+rwkw... and I haven't done anything to the diff yet bar a brake upgrade...
so does the pick up points on the body need strengthening? and i know the trailing arms need boxing in... also the chassis? need bracing?
Also what about lockers? too hard on the car? or LSD? and ratios?
And any other little pointers that anyone has to share would be great... I think I know them inside out, but you never know lol
I'd also plate the top t/arm mounts in the floor under the back seat has i've seen a few start to crack around this area. I'd also make a set of chassis conectors sitting parallel to the chassis rail either bolt in or weld in, seam weld where ever. I've not long done my new TC along the chassis rails in the engine bay and both x braces on the floor, made a big difference. Also you could box up every where pos with in the front end and cross member.. hmmm i'll get back to ya when i have thought of more, got too go out atm
__________________ California Speed Supplies HOGG Performance (07)33764333 "Blocks and women are the same, if you got a good one it won't need a girdle"
As for the locker. I'd have problems at all running one on the street. I fitted a 31 spline fullspool with billet axles in my old TD's Borg Warner housing (going a braced 9" in the TC). As for diff gears that'll depend on your power range/type of tires etc.
I'm going to test the body strength with the lastest TC i'm building, main aim is to build a 393 clevo with a single turbo of some sort. I've got a 90mm turbo to help with the dummy up so it'll have to be around thwat size :-) With the torque it'll put out it might do some damage, even with out the turbo it'll still have plenty. Just time and money. Money being the hardest.
__________________ California Speed Supplies HOGG Performance (07)33764333 "Blocks and women are the same, if you got a good one it won't need a girdle"
While working on the diff why not work out some way to properly locate it. I have a panhard rod fitted to my TD, with a pillar mount on the passenger side rail. This took some rerouting of fuel lines and I don't think the exhaust can go in the traditional place. It should take some strain out of the upper links perhaps.
yeah I've thought about that... a watts link setup, and just re- routing the exhaust under the diff.... might be the go, get rid of the cortina fish-tail like feeling hehe
The XE watts link set up is probably not worth the effort, something with a central fixed pillar may be better , but there is not much room between the diff and the fuel tank. In order to retain a rear exit exhaust a way to go could be a transverse a-arm.
this would require a bracket on the bottom of the diff pumpkin, and brackets somewhere along the chassis rails below the chassis mounts of the existing lower links. I had one in an escort. A technique is to make the a-arm vary in length with a sliding central pivot. That would be tech!
sorry for the late reply....
max_torque- I used a complete EA setup... very easy.. just redrill the caliper mounting plates to suit the diff and bearing plates. If I remember correctly, the passenger side axle (short EA one-25 spline) only needed about 5mm lopped off the end to fit perfect and the drivers side I had to shorten a 28 spline EB axle... was a very cheap conversion...