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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-30-03, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
Lion Poacher
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Location: south coast NSW
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How my nitrous works

I just had someone ask me how my system worked and where i got it and so on, it turned out pretty long so i thought i would see if anyone else was a little curios.
The system i run is very simple, I have one nossile that has been put into my throttlebody, into this nossile nitrous and fuel are sprayed and mixed into the air flow and so on. The fuel that is injected comes off your original fuel rail, where mine then has an inline fuel regularor which keeps the flow to the nossile at a constant 6psi.
You can sort of make it out in this picture.
You can change the amount of horse power by changing the size of the jets inside the nossile, takes about 5mins to change.
Then their is the bottle, has to be mounted in the boot or in the tray, cannot be in the cabin unless it is a registered drag car, even then it has to be ventilated external of the car.
I rent my bottle it costs around $100 to exchange bottles from boc. For that you get 14lb of nitrous. You will use 1lb per 100hp per 10 seconds. For example. If you had a 14lb bottle and you had 100hp jets you would get 140 seconds worth of boost, which is about 9-10 1/4 mile runs.
To operate my system i have a switch is turnd on which arms the solinoids. I have a micro on my throttle body which is activated at full throttle and sets the solinoids off sending fuel and n20 into the nossile.
This means you can have nitrous through the full gear range, much better than a single shot system.
How ever i must be doing at LEAST 3000rpm before you plant your foot flat to the floor or your engine might not thank you for shoving n20 down its intake when its not quite ready. BANG.
I have two shift lights one for 3000rpm and one for 5200rpm, that works pretty good for me.
My system is from a guy called Rob Madden, he is in albion park near wollongong. His buisness is called ozrace,
The system costs around $900 if you want to install it yourself, it comes with good instructions, so if your some what good with cars you shouldnt have a problem.
However i got mine installed, cause im lazy, it cost $2000.
It gave me around 80+rwkw on the dyno, so i am very happy with it.
However if Rob is busy with his wholesale another good performance mechanic that does install Robs oznos kits is Peak Performance in Ulladulla, south coast. These guys have got some very powerfull toys.
The legals i know are on NSW roads if you are anywhere else you will have to check with your RTA.
In NSW it is illegal to use nitrous on pubic roads. It is illegal to have hp jets in your nossile(s) and your main line is to be disconnected from the bottle. You also have to have blank jets and your nossile blanked off. So when you drive to your drag it takes about 5 mis to set it ready to race, just make sure you put the blanks back on before you drive home.
But you should still find out for your self.
Well i think thats about it if you need to know anything more just let me know.
Sorry about any spelling mistakes, ive had a couple of rums.

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-31-03, 01:03 AM
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Re: How my nitrous works

Good stuff Trav.

Lets ppl know that actually goes on when you "push the button", who are a little unsure of what is behind it all.

One question, I was running the same setup, being that I had a microswitch mounted on the carby. found this very good. pulled hard through the gears. but leaving the line was terrible as i could never give it full throttle.

To get around this I wired up a push button on the gear knob, as well as the microswitch, which was good for getting off the line as i could floor it and wait till the engine was ready (manual) then push the button, but lacked power through the gears and was a pain in the arse holding the button down.

How do you go gettin out of the hole not using WOT?

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-31-03, 05:39 AM
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Re: How my nitrous works

I have read in other places you can get 'progressive' N20 systems, that have a computer that turns the system on at a preset rpm, then gradually ups the pressure as the revs rise.

95 EF Fairmont 5.0 - Heritage Green - 4 Speed auto with AU S5 - 3.23LSD - 17x8" LWT Wheels - King Superlows - 76mm Cobra MAF - 65mm throttle - BPT Underdrive Pulley Kit - 3" Mandrel-bent Lukey exhaust - Tinted Windows - MP3 CD player - White faced dials.

117rwKw - 15.47@89.9MPH
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-31-03, 09:36 AM
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Re: How my nitrous works

Why not set up two relays, one which senses if WOT is operated and the other witch is activated by a shift light set at 3000rpm, set the N20 solanoids to switch on only when both of these conditions are met so the Fuel/N2O mix will only be injected with wot AND 3000rpm+, that way you can launch on full throttle.

Ive been described as a vault of usless random knowledge.

Ill take it as a complement i think.............

Last edited by Walkinshaw; 07-31-03 at 09:41 AM.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-31-03, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
Lion Poacher
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I dont use nitrous during first gear at all as i cant even get traction without it. I just feather the throttle then use it in 2nd, 3rd and 4th.
Not the best method but being a ute its the only way i dont shread my tyres to pieces. I know 17" tyres are getting cheaper but im getting a avg of 9000km per set of rear tyres, not the best and no i dont go around smoking it up all the time, its just a V8 ute. he he.



2000 AU2 XR8 ute on nitrous FOR SALE!!!
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The plans for the new toy are just about done!!
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