I've just picked up my new EL engine (I have all the turbo gear etc) which is going into an XE and i'm just about to get serious with the ignition side of things.
For one, the EL crank angle sensor doesn't want to pop out. :AAHHH: Is there a trick to this or does it just need some force?
What modifications are required to fit the XE dizzy?
(vac advance changed to boost retard? or just disconnect?)
(does the drive gear need to be changed?)
(will the dizzy cap clear the EA/B/D manifold?)
In your experience, would you reccommend using the XE dizzy or going for a haltech ignition only computer? Problems, suggestions?
Obviously the Haltech offers superior control...the matter comes down to an issue of cost.
Please only post relevant threads from those who have actually done this...i'm noticing alot of wanna-be's out there. Respect to those who are serious!
Once again i defininitely dont recommend doing this. The XE dizzy is about 1cm taller and it causes a lot of trouble, much wiser to do things properly with the haltech.
Answer: Because i have one to use and have heard of people reccomending using them. Also because i could do 10 minutes work and have the ignition mostly sorted (if only to be regraphed at a later date).
Posts like that aren't exactly helpful TIKFD6. I was really looking for a contrustive response like the one EA Turbo Clone provided in a PM.
I figured that the haltech was always the better option in terms of tuning however i noticed that they are "discontinued". I was originally worried about the cost ($495 plus $150 for 2BAR MAP sensor) but financially that's not so much of a concern now. Especially considering that an improperly instaled dizzy could potentially destroy my engine.
I figured a decent re-graph and boost retard modifications would set me back about $300 so it is probably worth the extra money to upgrade and get full adjustability and some extra outputs like turbo timer and such.
For anyone who can't get an IG5 they might have to run the XE dizzy hence the questions about what had to be done to actually fit it.
I just need to pick up the EA manifold and i can check the clearance of the XE dizzy. The XF EFI one might be a bit shorter by memory and i have one of those too.
During writing this post i phoned a few places including HALTECH and a few performance workshops and managed to buy THE LAST ONE IN STOCK to my knowledge. So a big rasberry to anyone who was "thinking" about doing it. Actions speak louder than words. Needless to say my car can now be tuned for some decent power.
Lets keep this thread open with a way of overcoming the problems with fitting the XE/XF dizzy.
The XE-XF dizzy's had mechanical advance. where electronic distributors. and had HEI (spark plug style terminals) on some of them, so they are a perfect drop in dizzy to suit EA-AU motors for mechanical advance.
But as i said previously the problem is that they are slightly taller and manifold clearance is an issue. Which was solely responsible for a miss fire on no.4 in my car and destroyed no.4 piston. Which i am currently rebuilding my motor and converting to a Haltech system, due to finding a source of the haltech IG5.
Apologies if i've offended anyone. The question was put out there to generate discussion on a point that seems to be overlooked by those who are dreaming about doing this conversion. Much discussion is aimed at manifolds, turbo sizing, LPG etc but no articles about the ignition.
I only got the EL engine on moday and worked on it for the grand sum of 3 hours which was spent dismantling, cleaning and painting it. Don't get to work on it again until the weekend.
If there actually was any advantage with using the XE dizzy it would only be the relative simplicity of the thing and the fact that i already have one spare to play with. But for that fact i also have a spare XF one (actually ZL fairlane but who cares) which i can also use if i remove it from the POS parts car. I just don't have a wiring diagram for the XF/ZL that explains what the "extra" wires are for so the XE seemed like the logical choice being that the car is an XE and that several people had told me to use one.
I guess i can summise the problem: For those on a budget, wishing to drop in an EF/L or maybe an AU engine, what is the best course of action?
The XF dizzy your talking about, sounds like the one that has the computer in the kickpanel, which is a timing computer, the dizzy is similar to a EA dizzy, it should have a map sensor if it is. I don't think these are any good for turbo setups as i believe the map sensor is one bar, and i don't know of anyone who can reprogram them.
On a budget your best/most reliable and cheapest thing to do is buy a Haltech or similar timing computer. And run the EA distributor.
Thanks Dane, thats exactly what i was wondering.
Why an XE as opposed to ED EL etc.
Thanks for clearing up that point Clone.
Aaron, i wasnt trying to be a smart as.
I have got my Haltech IG5, and a new EA dizzy, i also picked up a XF dizzy, the EA dizzy is different to the XF Dizzy, its about 1cm shorter, so you cant use one of them either, and they don't have a mechanic curve they have a timing computer.
maybe i should elaborate on my previous post i think.
what i stated before was an idea for a cheap ecu option,
running a ea series 1 (3 spd auto one) mpfi ecu, with the ea ignition (dizzy and wotnot) and then just an aftermarket ecu to control fueling.
they way i see it is the ea ecu and dizzy is worth jack crap all, can be installed fairly easily, and a fuel only unit goes for between 450-750 bucks, its a fairly cheap option, it should work and work well
if you are thinking of ging down this path, talk to a gas specialist, ask how they get the factory ecu to control sparks, then with that info, convert the ecu and wiring to suit ignition only, and then install ur new fuel only ecu.
Yep that's possible and completely logical if someone wanted to retain their EFI.
except in my case i didn't have it to start with...it was a carby XE.
i found that mine had some slight alloy corrosion (powedery white stuff) that was the culprit causing the ignition/crank angle sensor (in place of dizzy) to rotate but not pop out. I needed to use some force by levering it out with a pry-bar. But first i marked its location at TDC just in case. you might also want to use some WD40/RP7/penetrene.
replied to your specific post on the topic. Good luck Walky.
Forgive me for being naive, but I thought the EA CFI dizzy was the same height as the XF EFI dizzy, which in turn is the same height as the XF HEI Carby dizzy.
no the XF HEI dizzy is approx 1 centimetre taller, the EA onwards are a lot shorter than previous models. I have one of each in the shed and there is approx 2 centimetres difference in the mechanical advance version.
What would be the chances of putting the XF mechanicl dizzy gear into an EA dizzy housing?
If not, i'll just shave the cap on the XF, that should do it.
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