T_Terror

Hey guys. Im converting my 4.1 Crossflow-powered Fairlane to straight gas soon and want to route a pod to gas throttlebody intake system.
I want the pod to be as near to the front of the car as possible for a colder feed and rekon the battery location would be a perfect position.

So is it difficult to do a backyard battery-in-the-boot setup? I know abit about electrics/electronics. Ill probably get someone else to weld together a mount.

Any problems I might find? Is it dangerous to have the battery in the boot with the LPG tank? I heard that a charging battery creates hydrogen gas (BOOM!) which i wouldnt want in my boot along with the LPG tank.

Thanks

gtcoupe95

not sure about the LPG safety issues. prob call a LPG installer for that advice.. but the easiest way to relocate is to buy a battery box $30.. run heavy HEAVY duty cabling to the front and install multi lead mounting blocks.. cant think of the exact name.. but a block that allows your cabling to bolt to it and has spare accessory spots for any additional wires that require a permanant power source. they look very neat as well. you shouldnt need much more than joining the negative leads together.

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95 Mustang GT 302: VQ-S2 Vortech - Edelbrock Intake - BBK 70mm TB - UPR Boostpipe - TwEECer - Walbro 255 & T-Rex fuel pump - MSD btm - Crane HI-6 - 36# injectors - Pro-m 80mm MAF - Kirban FPR - FMS 9mm leads - FMS 3.73 Gears - Transgo Shift kit - B&M cooler - Saleen guage pod, FMS Boost and FP guages - R/H drive - Eibach Springs - Holley headers, http://www.meales.com.au

clevokid

Dont know what else can be used but on my own car went to welding supply shop and bought a length of heavy welding lead and took it to auto-elec to get ends crimped onto it. Used a battery box and earthed neg lead to boot floor. Best see about your gas first though I`d say shouldnt be too much of a prob if you vent battery box to outside

gtcoupe95

im not trying to disagree im not an electricain but shouldnt the block have an earth strap direct from the battery?

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95 Mustang GT 302: VQ-S2 Vortech - Edelbrock Intake - BBK 70mm TB - UPR Boostpipe - TwEECer - Walbro 255 & T-Rex fuel pump - MSD btm - Crane HI-6 - 36# injectors - Pro-m 80mm MAF - Kirban FPR - FMS 9mm leads - FMS 3.73 Gears - Transgo Shift kit - B&M cooler - Saleen guage pod, FMS Boost and FP guages - R/H drive - Eibach Springs - Holley headers, http://www.meales.com.au

prabbit

As an electronics tech for 25 years here are a couple of important considerations,

Battery - consider using a gel-tech type marine battery, more expensive but no
free hydrogen gassing to worry about. These also have better cycling and more
"grunt" (last longer too)

Cable - go to an industrial machinery wreakers and buy some 3 phase cable,
they should have stacks lying about, you'll need 3 lengths 40% longer than
the measured distance in the car, with a copper cross section approx 6 to 8 mm,
total cross section for the cable should be 50% greater than the standard cable,
braid the cable for the full length, fit connectors as necessary, run cable through
black poly pipe for safety. Don't forget a battery isolation switch and/or fuseable
link for the electrics.

Regards Prof Rabbit

roofi

Welding cable works great too