I installed an aftermarket one in my XF Fairmont. I just found a constant positive under the dash and hooked into that, the negative came from the body, and that was about that, ran the wires as concealed as possible, taped them up, and sprayed the tape to match the car so it didnt stand out to much.
I just drilled holes in an appropiate spot on the door, to hold the actuators, and then bent the rods supplied in the kit to line up with the rods in the doors and connected them.
Worked fine the entire time I had it.
Only problem is that the backdoor ones worked backwards, so the actuars are extended when front are retracted and vice versa, its because the way the rods link and where I positioned the actuator, otherwise no problems to report.
Dellboy999
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I did put something here, but it vanshied, I think
I installed one last weekend in my EA. I used the +12v from my immobilizer :\
-make sure you check that the windows dont fowl the wires when wound up and down.
-run the wires from the front two doors through the same hole and boot as the speaker wires
-run the rear door wires through one of the rubber caps, you only have to drill a hole into the chasis once then
-check your work as you do each door(ie apply power and see if it works), you dont want to make the same mistake four times...
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1992 DC LTD 5.0
Duel exhaust, Genie extractors, Ported E7 heads, ported lower HO inlet, 70mm maf, Underdrive Pullies
its fairly obvious, there are a few different ways to do it though. on the back doors there is a square hole where i believe the factory CL actuator would have sat. I mounted mine there. the front doors i mounted in between the pressed metal sheets (ie the space where the window sits when down.. obviously check it isnt actually in the way of the window though ). it doesnt really matter where you put it as long as it has room to operate and doesnt scrape against anything too badly.
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1992 DC LTD 5.0
Duel exhaust, Genie extractors, Ported E7 heads, ported lower HO inlet, 70mm maf, Underdrive Pullies
yeah dead easy to put them in, just do as barry_v said, make sure the wires clear with window down and window with the placement, and that the window will not hit the actuator.
Dellboy999
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I did put something here, but it vanshied, I think
i put the locking kit from my ea2 into my ea1 and found all the holes already predrilled and covered up with tape. was easy to do. btw...anyone want a ea2 with parts missing and blown motor?
i recently installed a central locking kit in my ea and only encountered 1 prob - the metal thingy that goes to the door puller (lock) had to be bent i connected it to my sunroofs power source
p.s. if you installing it into an ea-ed mount the rear ones on top of the panel cause if it is inside that metal thing that stops the door from opening out too far will catch it and snap the central lock motor off (it happened to my dad)
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1994 ED Ford Falcon Gli wagon, polynesian green, 4speed auto, dual fuel, spac cluster, 3.27ss diff,pioneer DEH3600 head unit, trip computer, ED fairmont grille, EF T-bar
Mods to come: 2.5'' lukey cat-back mandrel bent exhaust with 1 resonator and 1 straight thru muffler, EF cam, Clear indicatros all round, AU3 XR snorkel, 17" Keizzer rims, EDxr front,12"sub,sports wheel
Originally posted by eagt i put the locking kit from my ea2 into my ea1 and found all the holes already predrilled and covered up with tape. was easy to do. btw...anyone want a ea2 with parts missing and blown motor?
Whats the body like?
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Lets go find that Hotdog tree I planted
Lowered EF Futura
Black Steelies ( too cheap to buy proper mags )
body straight, good paint...snow white, hole in roof for head burner, front bar no good, vn commode bonnet scoop ewwww,
4 speed auto (worked ok when last ran)
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