Whats the go with disconnecting the battery will it wipe the ecu and they remap itself as you drive or what im very interested. As i have an eb II does this apply to me or not and when doing mods like bigger exhaust differant intakes ect should i disconect the battery and reconects it to make it rember better its all new to me and i would like to know as much about it as possible.
Also whats the best air filter for an eb series ii and do they really do much. Im still using paper one and will buy one just want to know what the best. Im going to put the xh snorkel on as its bigger but the eb box is differat to ef,el,au becuase its upside down to them. Should i just piss the box off alltogether and use a pod or should i mod the box a bit and feed some cold air into it would be great to know your thoughts thanks steve
i know its been discussed but i would love to know thanks
Upgrading the airfilter has a large effect on performance, especially when exhaust and other mods are done. I prefer K&N, they cost around $120 for the repalcement panel filter.
The EEC computer is a learning computer. When the battery is disconnected for around 30mins, it looses the information it has stored, and returns to factory programming. Once the battery has been connected, it learns over the next 100km or so. I don't know to what extent the eb's will learn, because they don't have an airflow meter, but I would think it would still learn. Someone else would know for sure. If in doubt, disconnect the battery, and flog it around for 100km or so.
I have just changed from the finer filter, because I was told by some mechanics that the oil in the finer filter damages the MAF. In the six's it isn't a problem, but I would be careful putting them in the v8's. Saying that, I ran one in my v8 for a year without problems.
EB ECU has limited learning capacity. I think it's mainly relearn idle (at operating temp, start without touching throttle and let idle for 1 minute without touching throttle) and there's some comparison between O2 sensor on exhaust and air/fuel inputs to see whether what's happening agrees with the program's expectations. The latter one continually alters settings to allow for wear etc as the car ages. That's all I can recall.
The oil coates the 2 tiny wires in the MAF and they read incorrect , easy to fix just GENTLY wipe them over with a cotton bud dipped in metho.
Also when you reconnect the battery you also should turn on and off the aircon and lights/taillights/blinkers and turn the steering lock to lock a few times so the ECU finds these things.
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With the EEC-4 (EA/EB/EBII/ED) I've found it to take a few 100 km before the idle gets itself sorted. Also I've found that it takes a few 100km for the engine to get back to "best" performance with a "performance" cam. I don't know if it's related to the km or the number of engine starts tho - so simply going for a 4 hour drive might not work the same as clocking up 300k's over a few weeks.
Whether "clearing" is worthwhile is hard to tell - the shift pattern becomes crisper for a while (in fact I've heard that you should drive it quite hard to make it learn to stay crisp) - but surely the general engine "learning" will take the same amount of time?
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