Daneo

All three brake Lights on my EF have gone. The fuses are Ok as I swapped it with the Indicators and it works fine. The two rear Brake Light globes are also OK. Apart from checking the entire wiring line, has anyone got any hints/tips?
Thanx

 

bennoxr8

This will more than likely be the brake light switch. They go all the time. You should be able to pick up a non genuine Ford one from any Autoelec for around $30-$40 fitted. Its located near the mount for the brake pedal...but i'm not sure if you can tell if its shot or not - but I would bet a substantial sum on that being the problem.

Daneo

I had a look at that, but you cant tell if its broken or not. If they go all the time I will give it a crack
Thanx mate

Rodp

That was one of the many list of problems I had with my EF. The sensor under the pedal is probably the culprit. Autoelectrician should be able to resolve that problem in about 20 mins. Cost me around $75.

jemmex

I had to replace teh switch about once evey 18 months on my EL. I guess the EF is the same.

Autoelectricians can sort it in about 10 mins for about $50 fitted.

greenieofdubbo

i had to replace mine not long ago, all the brake lights stopped on the morning of my P plate test, so ofcorse the RTA Dont give me my 39$ back.

but anway, cost me 40 bucks from ford. and easy to put in.

Cheers
Greenie

outback_ute

I've had the same thing. Not something you want to put off fixing...

efxr6

Just saw this post today after spending the afternoon fixing the exact same problem on my EF XR6.
While travelling to work the other morning I lost all the brake lights. Lucky the car behind me was my brother who jumped on his mobile to let me know. Turned around and went back home, using the taillights as a temp brake light, flicking on the lights everytime I had to brake heavily :)
Rang FORD at work later that day and was quoted $49.50 for a new switch (they said they go all the time). Next call was to REPCO who quoted $8.95, so I went and brought 2 of them ( just in case) :)
Not too hard to replace. You need to be very limber and sometimes need 4 hands, but can be done. Problem fixed for $8.95 and about 1/2 hour time.

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Liquid_XR8

If you want to be sure before getting the switch, you can check it with a multimeter. With the switch unplugged and the meter in ohms/resistance/continuity range, place the test leads across the switch (polarity not important). Depending if it is a Normally Open or Normally Closed switch (probably normally closed) you will measure approx 0 ohms without the pedal depressed, and infintie ohms with the pedal depressed, or vise versa. If this happens the switch is ok, if the reading doesn't change when the pedal is depressed then it's cactus.
If the switch is ok, you could the test the wiring to the switch. One of the two wires should be +12V, and the other 0V. Be sure to switch the meter to Volts!!
If there is no voltage there, then you'd have to trace the wiring to find the fault, a lot easier with diagrams...

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arfur

I have had exactly the same problem with my EL about 3 times since 2000! Unfortunately testing it with a multimeter on ohms doen't prove a thing. It only fails under load, ie with 12 Volts across it. As you can imagine it makes fault finding rather frustrating. Anyhow, the good news is it is easy as to replace, just as well, once you know how. I can now change one in less than 10 minutes!
Still don't why they fail, I suspect that they go 'high resistance' for some reason.