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Old 06-11-2002, 04:00   #1 (permalink)
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Installing Rear Electric Windows

Hi All,

I just recently got new interior door trims that have provision for electric windows on the rear doors. I was wondering if anyone has done the manual window regualtor to electric conversion ? I am keen to do it myself and get the necessary parts. I would like to know what parts and rough;y how much it would cost to DIY. Hope I'm not asking too much !

Thanks guys,
Steve
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Old 06-11-2002, 07:25   #2 (permalink)
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I did it to my XF. It was a farken nightmare. I had it half done and left all the wires hanging out for months. Still not 100% done but its all working and reasonably neat... You just don't wanna touch the fuse box in my car anymore!!!

I bougth the donor car for only $300, but a couple of the motors are worn, so i want to buy new ones, and at $200 each it will wait a while!
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Old 06-11-2002, 07:40   #3 (permalink)
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xf_xr6

Yeah it would be a complete nightmare because all wires etc would have to be run, holes cut into doors etc I know I did it my XD and like you I still haven't finished.

dcstraight

What you are doing is the same as what I want to do, we already have the wires running into the doors for the central locking and I'm hoping that the wires are also there for power windows (maybe they have used the Fairmont's wireing loom??) If that was the case all we would have to do is replace the regulators, hook up the door switches and replace the two switchs in the console with one with 4. Sounds easy huh - What sort of door trims are you using??

Paul B
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Old 06-11-2002, 08:00   #4 (permalink)
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Hiya Lads,

xf_xr6 : Yeah I can imagine how difficult it is for an XF. I am yet to get prices on the parts I need - hopefully not too much !!

Paul : Yeah, I don't know if we have factory wires running in the doors already - I'll have to scope it out. I have sourced a complete set of EL Fairmont Ghia trims, which came with switches already in place on the rear trims. I'm guessing what I need is :

* 2 X elec window winders
* 2 X elec window switches (for front console unit)
* 1 X centre console facia
* 1 X 'lock rear switches' button
* Miscellaneous Ford specific rivvets to mount winders / rear arm rests.

Anyway, I'm going to try and get some quotes tomorrow and see what happens. If it's too pricy, it will be on hold for a bit, otherwise, I'll go ahead with it shortly.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 06-11-2002, 08:23   #5 (permalink)
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Factory regulators are rivetted in, I think you can buy a nut and bolt assy to mount the regulators - panel shops use them when replacing doors etc. They have a flat head so not to obstruct the door trims when reassembled.

The 4 switch unit is a straight swap over for the 2 and this also has the lockout switch that locks out the rear windows.

Cheers

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Old 06-12-2002, 06:02   #6 (permalink)
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The Rear Regulators will cost roughly $220 Brand New Genuine from Ford. (I bought 1 from City Ford last Year, but there are other dealers that are cheapa cheapa !)

Or the Used, Wrecker route, they will cost around $80-100, depending where you go.

No idea on how much a 4 Window Switch assy would cost you.

As for wiring for the Back doors -
There will not be ANY Wiring for the Back power windows there, but the Good news is that you will only require 3 Wires run into the Back doors.

One Wire for Power to the Back window switch(es).
and 2 wires that give gorund, and power from the center console switches to wind the windows up and Down.

As for running the wires in to the Doors,

1. You will need to remove the Rubber Conduit thingo out from the Door, and the Body, this thing can be "simply" pulled out.
Use a flat headed screwdriver to seperate the rubber grommet from the Door, and the Body.
2. Unplug any connectors in the Door so as you can get good access to this conduit thingie, as you will need to run these 3 cables through it ! (Lets see how many times you can say F!@# before you get this done !)
3. Once the above is completed, you will need to run the cable through to the inside of the car (Easier said than done).
The Proper way to do this is to remove the front seat (Yes I am actually NOT joking !), and pull up the carpet, (You will need to remove the door sills, and seatbelt cover, and front kick panels !)
4. When you have done the above, you will notice a nice large hole, that you can feed those 3 wires through, from the rubber conduit, and from the door, basically run these three wires under the carpet, and straight to the from power window switches.

Now for the colour cables from the Front Power Window Plug.
If you already have front power windows, then you will have the plug already there, but I am not 10% sure if you will have all the extra wires coming from the plug ???
If you do, then here are the wire colours that you will need to hook up to.
1. The Power Line for the Back windows is the Thin Yellow/Grey Line.
There will be a thick Yellow Grey Line alreay there.
The Thin one is from the Child Proof Switch, to the Back windows.
(If you connect the Back windows power to the thick Yellow/Grey Line, then this switch will do sweet FA, and the Rear windows will work all the time.
2. Here are the Other Colours you will need
Yellow/Dark Blue - LH (passenger side Rear Down Line)
Red/Dark Blue - LH (passenger side Rear Up Line)
Yellow/Violet - RH (drivers side Rear Down Line)
Red/Dark Green - RH (drivers side Rear Up Line)
3. Here are the colour wires that come from the window regulator, connect these to the appropriate colour wire from the front switch.
Yellow/Black - Motor Down
Yellow/Dark Green - Motor Up
4. Finally, if it helps, here are the colours used for the rear switches
Yellow/Violet - Down (From front switches)
Grey Yellow - Power (From front switches)
Red/Dark Green - Up (From Front switches)
Yellow/Black - Down (goes to motor/regulator)
Yellow/Dark Green - Up (goes to motor/regulator).


Hmmmmmmmm.
I think I have covered nearly everything ??????
To be honest, the job should take approx 2 whole days to complete. (I.E. weekend job), but the car will not be in a drivable position untill the job is at least %50 completed (I.E. cabling run thru the doors, and new regulators fixed in to place.

If there are any further questions, dont hesitate to contact me !

Cheers
Matti
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Old 06-12-2002, 06:14   #7 (permalink)
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Hiya Matti,

Thanks for the detailed instructions - VERY MUCHLY APPRECIATED !!!! Yeah, I am keen to get the bits I need asap. Umm, what I was going to ask is, how do I mount the electric regulators? I've busted the manual regulator rivets from the door (so that the manual regulator doesn't stick out and allows me to put on my new trim) which I'm *praying* is a good move ? Please tell me, it's something needed to be done ! :-)

Thanks heaps Matti !
Steve

PS, Yeah I emailed you last night ;-)
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Old 06-12-2002, 06:16   #8 (permalink)
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Oh yeah, some other stuff I forgot about.

1. The cabling that you will need to run should be able to handle around 10 Amps per window. (I.E. get yourself some decent sized Figure 8, or something.

2. You will probably need to get the plugs for the rear window buttons. (You could bypass the rear window switches easily enuf, or you could use some spade connectors and plug the wires in directly that way (If you choose to do this, then lemme know, as you will need to know what wire plugs in to what part of the switch !)

3. The Wiring will 90% not be there for the Back windows.
(I know, major pain in the rear end). Each model has its own specific wiring looms. I.E. Fairmont is not the same as Fairlane, is not the same as LTD, is not the same as Futura, is not the same as Gli, is not the same as XR.

4. The Fairmont Door trims will require a couple (Cant remember exactly) extra Bolt thingies mounted in to the door, for the 2 bolts that hold the armrest in place. (these screw thingies are about 80c each, and fUSION knows how these things are fitted ! Lol !

5. If you are running wires for the Rear windows, U may as well run an extra 2 small wires for the Rear Door Lamps, as when these are connected, they look very very Sweet !!!!!!

Anyway, dont let all this info put you off in any way, just do things one step at a time, (I.E. fit the regulators first, then fit the Bolt thingies, then the Door trim, then run the cabling through the conduit and into the cabin, then finally wire the whole thing up !

Hope this all helps !

Cheers
Matti
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Old 06-12-2002, 06:20   #9 (permalink)
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Jeeeeez, youre a fast typist !!

Yeah, dont worry bout the rivets, total waste of F!@#ing time if you ask me !

I just used some nuts and bolts from the local hardware store !
As for the Head size, that doesnt matter as I have big chunky bolts holding my back regulator, and the trim sits in perfect.

Just make sure that the length of the Bolts arent tooo long, otherwise they may foul the window, (I.E. touch, rub up against, or block the window from winding !)

I think mine were about 2cm long, and the thread dia was 5mm.
The heads were chunky hex, 8mm or 10mm from memory !

Also using bolts and nuts makes the whole thing easy to work on, if you ever (god forbid) need to remove the regulator again !

Cheers
Matti
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Old 06-12-2002, 06:28   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks heaps Matti - you're instructions are invaluable ! I'll try to source some elec regulators first (from a wrecker first!) along with the bolt thingies for the armrests. By the way, do you know how they work ? I know I've got provision for them (ie holes in the metal), but I'm unsure how they stay in place !! (Sorry for all the Q's!)

Do you also know if the electric window regulators sit in the same place as the manual regulators - ie where I angle grinded / drilled out the rivets holding the manual regulator in place ? Sorry if all these questions seem obvious, but I'm just trying to plan / picture how it all works !!

Thanks again !!
Steve
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