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Old 08-24-2005, 18:20   #1 (permalink)
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Installing HR 1600kg towpack

I've recently purchased a hayman reese 1600kg towpack (and the ford wiring harness), which is very similar in appearance to the ford 1600kg towpack- flat tongue type, not square hitch. At roughly 290 bucks, and 79 for the wiring, its still over 100 bucks cheaper than the for towpack... but i have to fit it, which isn't really a major drama.

The instructions are very vague when it comes to removing the rear bumper, and a quick search has revealed a few people have a pdf file of how to remove the bumpers. If anyone still has this, could they pls post it here or pm me for an email address. I'm 'planning' on installing it this weekend....

By the looks of it, its easy to remove the LHS taillight due to the jack enclosure, but the RHS it seems the whole side panels need removing to gain access to the screws. I just dont want to find myself ripping the whole rear of the car open when there is a documented shortcut.....

One of the reasons for me purchasing the bar to install it myself, is that i can take my time in cutting the hole in the bumper to it (hopefully) will look a lot neater and more of a factory appearance than what the dealer would probably to in a short timeframe. And using the ford wiring loom will be a lot neater and less likely to cause me grief in the future (except the pricetag..)

Also, from browsing the forums here, and ff.com.au, i've seen a few people mention the wires for the rear power socket and electric brakes are either not very good or dissapear into nowhere. In your opinion, would it be worthwile running new wires through whist pulling the car apart anyhoo??

Cheers
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Old 08-25-2005, 00:07   #2 (permalink)
jnr
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Re: Installing HR 1600kg towpack

just e-mailed the pdf file to you, any other probs contact me on work e-mail
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Old 08-25-2005, 03:48   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Installing HR 1600kg towpack

thanks for that. Cleared up the removal process, but the painful part is that it refers to another section for the removal of the tail lights...
I was hoping that would be in there to clarify if all the plastic panels need to be removed on the right hand side.
jnr, or anyone else be able to enlighten me on the rhs tail light removal?
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Old 08-26-2005, 02:12   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Installing HR 1600kg towpack

Quote:
Originally Posted by Macka
thanks for that. Cleared up the removal process, but the painful part is that it refers to another section for the removal of the tail lights...
I was hoping that would be in there to clarify if all the plastic panels need to be removed on the right hand side.
jnr, or anyone else be able to enlighten me on the rhs tail light removal?
Taillight removal is the easy bit - just undo the screws, grasp it and pull firmly, they will then just "pop" out. Getting the bar off can be a bit of a drama, because the plastic mounting clips on each side hold on to the bar like the proverbial on a blanket!

And yes, the electric brake wires in the genuine wiring harness go as far as the end of the wiring harness that plugs into the car harness - and go no further! Running them to the front is a real drama - see my thread on the alternate forum.

The trailer harness plugs into the vehicle harness below the right-hand taillight, you have to VERY CAREFULLY remove the vent/flap gizmo to get to the relevant plug. Tip: fit the harness to the car before you fit the bar, otherwise its becomes a bit more difficult - especially if you have reverse sensing - and the corresponding trailer wiring harness.

I fitted my HR 2300KG bar and Ford wiring harness, then ran new wires for electric brakes and a new set of auxilliary power wires to the front of the car/under-bonnet - this is where it gets difficult. The main difficulty is getting the new wires from the cavity where the harness plugs in, through into the car's rear cargo area (behind the RHS trim) - you cannot see or feel a damn thing, an unfolded coat hanger is needed to push through, then drag the new wires in - see my thread as above.
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Old 08-29-2005, 05:00   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Installing HR 1600kg towpack

All installed and ok, but not without some drama's...

I understand now that the taillights are easily removed. The instructions i have mention 3 screws, but there is only 2. They must be including the 2 screws below the lights. This is why i was confused. Remove the 2 screws, and pull. easy.

The problem i had (other than needing to fabricate a bracket to hold the plug in the std location..) was the bar doesn't really fit right. When installed and the bumper reinstalled, the tailgate hits the top of the bumper, badly. What caused this is the bends made in the beam of the towbar are not in the most ideal location- they could be made another 40-50mm or so toward the centre, and still fit with the profile of the car behind.
Because the bends protrude a few mm, 2 screws on the back of the bumper hit the bar, holding it out and raising the centre section up just enough to cause problems.
my solution, after messing around for a few hrs filing (and sanding drum in a dremmel works great) back i ended up predrilling and putting the screws in at a ~45° angle and cutting the plastic tabs off. This gave enough clearance, but still had the strength to hold the 2 plastic parts of the inside of the bumper together.

Its probably hard to understand without seeing what i mean, but i thought i'd post my findings so people in the future can be prepared for a little surgery.
I did take a few pics, but i haven't checked them as i had trouble trying to focus on the problem in poor light.

Overall, im happy the bumper is sitting correctly again, but i'm not that happy with the general construction of the bar- especially the section that protudes from the car. Its very messy and covered was covered in welding spots and even a small piece of mig wire, then painted over, which most flaked off after handling... in the region most handled.
The fact you have to cut the lower bumper holding screwhole off and the metal standoff where the screw holds directly below the towbar so the tongue fits is average. 1 less screw point to hold the bumper in its correct shape. The ford bar definitely is a lot neater visually.
If anyone would like some more info or for pics, email or pm me.

Cheers
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Old 08-30-2005, 02:10   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Installing HR 1600kg towpack

Quote:
Originally Posted by Macka
All installed and ok, but not without some drama's...

I understand now that the taillights are easily removed. The instructions i have mention 3 screws, but there is only 2. They must be including the 2 screws below the lights. This is why i was confused. Remove the 2 screws, and pull. easy.

The problem i had (other than needing to fabricate a bracket to hold the plug in the std location..) was the bar doesn't really fit right. When installed and the bumper reinstalled, the tailgate hits the top of the bumper, badly. What caused this is the bends made in the beam of the towbar are not in the most ideal location- they could be made another 40-50mm or so toward the centre, and still fit with the profile of the car behind.
Because the bends protrude a few mm, 2 screws on the back of the bumper hit the bar, holding it out and raising the centre section up just enough to cause problems.
my solution, after messing around for a few hrs filing (and sanding drum in a dremmel works great) back i ended up predrilling and putting the screws in at a ~45° angle and cutting the plastic tabs off. This gave enough clearance, but still had the strength to hold the 2 plastic parts of the inside of the bumper together.

Its probably hard to understand without seeing what i mean, but i thought i'd post my findings so people in the future can be prepared for a little surgery.
I did take a few pics, but i haven't checked them as i had trouble trying to focus on the problem in poor light.

Overall, im happy the bumper is sitting correctly again, but i'm not that happy with the general construction of the bar- especially the section that protudes from the car. Its very messy and covered was covered in welding spots and even a small piece of mig wire, then painted over, which most flaked off after handling... in the region most handled.
The fact you have to cut the lower bumper holding screwhole off and the metal standoff where the screw holds directly below the towbar so the tongue fits is average. 1 less screw point to hold the bumper in its correct shape. The ford bar definitely is a lot neater visually.
If anyone would like some more info or for pics, email or pm me.

Cheers
Mmmm, my HR 2300KG job is a contrast - it looks and fits perfectly. The Instructions with my bar covered the removal of the screws you mentioned, and the grinding down of the corresponding plastic bits.
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Old 08-30-2005, 04:25   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Installing HR 1600kg towpack

Does the rear bumper flex or rattle without the screws? as i cut the tabs off and filed them pretty much off as you said but put the screw back in at an angle (which they only just poke out just below where they originally did on the outside) it stiffened up the bar a lot. the inside black plastic mould holds the outer bumper in shape and in position.

Anyway, i can live with it. Just got to repaint the part protuding from the car.
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Old 08-31-2005, 02:04   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Installing HR 1600kg towpack

Quote:
Originally Posted by Macka
Does the rear bumper flex or rattle without the screws? as i cut the tabs off and filed them pretty much off as you said but put the screw back in at an angle (which they only just poke out just below where they originally did on the outside) it stiffened up the bar a lot. the inside black plastic mould holds the outer bumper in shape and in position.

Anyway, i can live with it. Just got to repaint the part protuding from the car.
Nope, bumper is as solid as prior to modification.
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Old 09-07-2005, 15:01   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Installing HR 1600kg towpack

Have you got some photos you can send me Burnsi, I am looking at getting the 2300kg kit and asking Ford not to fit so they don't f%*k it up.

Cheers

Corey

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