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What's the go with running in the engine and how long does it really take?
We've just hit 1000km and although I've heard of taking it easy on new motors I've read on xr8 forums about the need to give it to 'em whilst new, though not everyone agrees.
In the manual the advice is fairly restrictive especially when it comes to towing. For anyone buying a Terri to travel around Aus with caravan should at least have 10000km on the dial. BTW that's not a quote, just my impression I got from reading the owners manual.
Our previous car was your typical ex govt white au 99 wagon with 44,000 after 12months and traded it in on a terri awd ghia. An SMH article in the Drive section a few months ago warned about these type of ex govt implying that they've been worked hard over a short time. We had 142,000 when traded and never had a problem and it was ex Murrumbidgee council and had done plenty of towing on country roads. A friend of mine has something similar except has 180,000 and has had no problems. Basically I doubt whether either car was nurtured for any great period. Most leased fleet cars get a good run during the first few thousand km's to see what they can do, yet don't fall apart after being auctioned off.
This is getting long winded,Sorry. Is the running in period as described by Ford over the top? I'm assuming other manufacturers have similar advice to cover themselves against over zealous drivers. I'd be interested to hear your advice and/or experiences. Cheers
Can I just apologise and correct myself and say that the manual states 3000km recommendation for heavy towing, nowhere near my assumption of 10000km. Sorry.
Have a look on the Ford website there was a running in procedure on the FPV page for the 8's & 6's there. As for towing, you may need something more specific.
I always run my vehicles in by doing a long highway drive, with some hills involves.
The most criticle part of the engine to bed in are the piston rings & cylinders. If you drive like a 80 year old grandma you risk glazing the cylinder bores or the rings do not get enough pressure behind them to force the sealing surface to form a good shape to the cylinder bore.
Drive it hard, but do not thrash it.
I also recomend having the oil changed at 3000km, use a good quality full synthetic oil.
For the oil to be a full synthetic it must be a 100% PAO or Ester oil, it wont be cheap but in the long run will save with; better fuel consumption, less internal wear, more power, longer drain intervals.
This is extreme http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm but a good read, I reckon he goes to far & forgets about other parts of the engine, like bearings & thrusts. But some people swear by it, I would not.
Last edited by johnydep : 05-24-2005 at 05:56.
Reason: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
A couple of your posts re: oil change and analysis, plus motoman's break in method put things in perspective. Especially comments regarding components bedding in and loading the rings. Thaks for the info.
I always run my vehicles in by doing a long highway drive, with some hills involves.
The most criticle part of the engine to bed in are the piston rings & cylinders. If you drive like a 80 year old grandma you risk glazing the cylinder bores or the rings do not get enough pressure behind them to force the sealing surface to form a good shape to the cylinder bore.
Drive it hard, but do not thrash it.
I also recomend having the oil changed at 3000km, use a good quality full synthetic oil.
For the oil to be a full synthetic it must be a 100% PAO or Ester oil, it wont be cheap but in the long run will save with; better fuel consumption, less internal wear, more power, longer drain intervals.
This is extreme http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm but a good read, I reckon he goes to far & forgets about other parts of the engine, like bearings & thrusts. But some people swear by it, I would not.
Agree, but don't know if I'd change to synthetic oil that early - my BA felt pretty tight at 3,000 km. The fuel consumption is still improving at 12,000 km, which is probably a good measure of how well run in the engine is.
I think that main thing when running in is to vary the load and revs - don't just sit at 100 km/h on a straight, flat road but find some back roads with corners and hills. Also drive it hard at some stage once the engine's done a few thousand kms.
Never understood why manufacturers pussy foot around towing in brand new cars.
Any engine automotive engineer will tell you that the increased towing weight actually forces the valves to seat harder when new, thereby bedding in better.
The only reason that you are meant to take it easy when bedding in a new car, is so that the manufacturer does not have to contend with warranty returns... that's all.
Hard driving when new spreads load forces more evenly throughout the motor, compared to light bedding in.
Never understood why manufacturers pussy foot around towing in brand new cars.
Any engine automotive engineer will tell you that the increased towing weight actually forces the valves to seat harder when new, thereby bedding in better.
The only reason that you are meant to take it easy when bedding in a new car, is so that the manufacturer does not have to contend with warranty returns... that's all.
Hard driving when new spreads load forces more evenly throughout the motor, compared to light bedding in.
There are other mechanical components to take into account, such as; differential, gearbox, brakes, etc.
I think, the Territory log book mentions no towing for a while, mainly for the diff.
The only reason that you are meant to take it easy when bedding in a new car, is so that the manufacturer does not have to contend with warranty returns... that's all.
??That would imply then it is bad for the car, as it is likely to raise warranty issues (ie cause damage). It that is the case then it seems a very acceptable reason.
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2003 Saab Sports Sedan 2005 Ford Territory RWD Ghia (soon)