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Old 06-11-2006, 07:52   #1 (permalink)
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1998 Explorer Power Door Lock Problem - Help!!

I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. The driver's side power door lock switch will only close all locks. It will not open any of the doors locks, with the engine on or off. However, if the engine is off, the remote will open all of the locks. Passenger side switch works fine, with engine on and off. I have changed the driver's side switch, and the same problem exits. I don't think it's the actuator, since it works fine, with the remote and the engine off. Any Suggestions ?
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Old 06-11-2006, 15:54   #2 (permalink)
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Re: 1998 Explorer Power Door Lock Problem - Help!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kahnos
I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. The driver's side power door lock switch will only close all locks. It will not open any of the doors locks, with the engine on or off. However, if the engine is off, the remote will open all of the locks. Passenger side switch works fine, with engine on and off. I have changed the driver's side switch, and the same problem exits. I don't think it's the actuator, since it works fine, with the remote and the engine off. Any Suggestions ?
Hey KAHNOS,
I just purchased a '97 with exactly the same conditions and did the same as you to no avail, too.
A friend of mine is on IATN and he couldn't find any fixes.
All-D shows DS unlock module in cargo cmptmnt but I haven't got that far.
Mine will unlock from the PS and cargo.
Lets let eachother know ! Tri- City Motors
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Old 06-11-2006, 17:56   #3 (permalink)
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Re: 1998 Explorer Power Door Lock Problem - Help!!

If you open the driver's door, you will see a rubber boot that holds all the wiring that goes through the door. Inside that mess, you will find a broken wire that is common on that model. It may take some time to find it, but that is where the trouble is.
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Old 06-12-2006, 10:27   #4 (permalink)
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Re: 1998 Explorer Power Door Lock Problem - Help!!

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Originally Posted by Mullet Man
If you open the driver's door, you will see a rubber boot that holds all the wiring that goes through the door. Inside that mess, you will find a broken wire that is common on that model. It may take some time to find it, but that is where the trouble is.


How do i access those wires running through the boot ?
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Old 06-12-2006, 14:17   #5 (permalink)
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Re: 1998 Explorer Power Door Lock Problem - Help!!

i just fixed the problem as follows:

. there is a barrel between the door and frame, where the wires run through, there is a bolt on top of the barrel. loosen it. it takes awhile. the bottom part of the barrel will pull out eventually. (the bottom part is a electric conector. i don't know what you call it, but the wires are connected into the bottm part that pulls out. the wires from the door feed into the connector on top that remains attached to the door.) pull down the rubber sleeve on the bottom part, and there you will see the broken wire, pink/green for unlock and pink/yellow for lock. splice the broken wires together . not much room to work, and leave some play in the wires. reattach the bottom part to the top, and it works once again...........
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Old 11-30-2007, 10:38   #6 (permalink)
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Re: 1998 Explorer Power Door Lock Problem - Help!!

Thanks, Kahnos!

I have a '97 Explorer that I bought "used" in '99. I had a similar problem: The driver's side door lock switch would unlock but not lock the doors. I had, at first, been ready to replace the master control switch in the door (the one that controls the windows and doors) but after reading your post, I opened that "barrel" connector and pulled back the rubber boot and, sure enough, there lay the problem.

In my case it was pin #3 (3rd pin counting counter-clockwise in the outer-most ring of pins when viewing the female end of the connector, the one that goes into the body). The pink wire with the yellow trace was broken about an inch from the connector, as well as pin #1 (black with light blue trace).

I had to use a razor knife to cut the boot back far enough to make a proper repair (soldered in addition lenghts of wire and sealed them with heat-shrink tubing). That black/light blue wire was the reason the door open "courtesy" light on the bottom of the driver's door had stopped working.

Thanks for the insight! Now I just have to figure a good way to weather-proof the razor cut I made in the boot.
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Old 12-02-2007, 08:02   #7 (permalink)
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Re: 1998 Explorer Power Door Lock Problem - Help!!

wow I'm glad you brought this thread back up Walt. I have the same problem with the lock button not working on my driver's side but the unlock does work. Sounds like an all-too-common problem! Too bad it's gotten cold out, I don't have a garage and don't want to do this repair out in the cold too badly. I think I'll just continue locking and unlocking solely with the remote until spring.
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Old 12-07-2007, 18:45   #8 (permalink)
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Re: 1998 Explorer Power Door Lock Problem - Help!!

Thanks for the info. My door lock switch would not lock unless I started to close the door holding the switch down. It got worse to the point the door was almost closed before it would lock. It finally gave up, which means the wire is broken completely pulled apart inside the harness. I just changed out an insturment cluster light and the door switch is getting done tomorrow.
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Old 08-18-2008, 19:46   #9 (permalink)
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confused 1998 Explorer Power Door Lock Problem - Help!!

I have a similiar problem (only slightly different). I have a 1998 Ford Explorer and the Keyless entry will open all doors but driver side door. The key will not unlock the door (it will not even turn). The lock will sound as if it is trying to unlock but it will not (it will only click). The only way to unlock the driver side door is to pull the handle from the inside. If the door is already unlock the door will open fine so it is not the handle. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this and is this a common problem with this make/model?

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

Joe
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Old 08-19-2008, 08:46   #10 (permalink)
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Re: 1998 Explorer Power Door Lock Problem - Help!!

Joe,

It sounds like a mechanical problem. I think the key lock, the inside door button (that pops up and down) and the electrical solenoid are all tied together mechanically at the same point on the latch mechanism. So best advice is to remove the inside door trim panel and visually inspect the latch and the various linkage rods that connect to it from the key, the up/down button and the solenoid.

Disconnect the links one by one and try locking the door with the ones that are still connected. If after disconnecting all links from the lock/unlock lever on the latch mechanism you still cannot even move the lever, your latch mechanism is bound up or broken.

Good luck,
Walt
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