I'm helping out a friend at work with his 2000 Ford Explorer. It's 2wd, auto, 4 door with the SOHC 4.0l V6. He needed front brakes, rotors and all, and complained about about an exhaust leak, stalling when warmed up, surging idle, so he took it to someone like autozone and got the codes checked, he says they came up with two O2 sensors, not sure of the specific codes. I haven't checked the codes yet, just finished the brakes. I started it up, opened the hood, and saw the EGR supply tube broken off both at the manifold and the EGR valve. I haven't had any luck finding one, besides a dealer 60miles away for $186.
I've tried everyone around here, even a few shops that have access to Motorcraft distributors. No luck at all. I have found one for the 5.0 V8, which in the picture looks similar, but that doesn't mean it would fit. Any body have an idea where to get one that might be a little bit cheaper? The real kicker is I just destroyed the AC joint in my right shoulder. Just converted my last vehicle to stick last winter, so that definetly won't help with any of this.
I have been soaking the fittings with PB Blaster, haven't tried spinning them out yet. Hopefully they come out....
Any help is greatly appreciated, as the sooner I get this out the door the quicker I get paid. Can't work for a few weeks, so I need every dollar I can get! Thanks again.
OK, weird thing with the dealer. I gave them the VIN (last 8) over the phone to order the $200 egr tube. I show up today, they have the wrong tube. I go over with the parts guy what I need, tube for an SOHC motor. Pulls up the diagram with me there, comes up with the the diagram of the wrong setup. For kicks, look at the OHV motor, there it is. Only $50, had it at a dealer a few towns over.
Put the new tube in, and what a bugger getting those fittings out was. Put everything pack together, went for a spin. First time I started it, fired right up, let it warm up, idle seemed ok. Maybe a bit high, but it was cold and just barely started warming up. Shut it off, went inside for a bit, went to start it and it was a little hesitant to start. Went for a 20 min drive, seemed to drive ok. Got to the driveway, left it in drive with the brake on for a min and the idle started to surge. The guy that owns it said it used to do it so bad it would stall out at a stop pretty quick. Which made sense when I saw the EGR tube hanging by the feedback sensor tubes.
So I checked the codes, got P0402 (EGR), 0305 (Cly. 5 misfire), 0171, and 0174, lean conditions both banks. And P1054 pd, which I think is stored codes? So it seems I may have a vacuum leak, is it common for the intake manifold gasket to leak? Sounds like it's coming from under the throttle valve, hard to tell. The place that pulled the codes for him a few weeks ago only told him he needed 02 sensors, but I'm not convinced of that.
Could use some help on this one, trying to get it out of my garage by Monday. Thanks for any help.
Make sure the EGR isn't sticking open. Put vacuum to it and see if it can open and close okay. The PCV or hose to ut can give a vacuum leak too. I'd clear the codes and retest to see what comes back. Keep track of the codes you have before clearing them. Also clean the MAF with MAF cleaner if you haven't already. If you unplug the MAF and it runs good, you have a dirty or defective MAF.
I've never used or seen MAF cleaner. I've always used contact cleaner in the past. Is this a dealer only type cleaner?
I was going to just change the EGR valve anyhow, but it has no chance of coming out without cutting it off the bracket, and it seemed to open and close when I tested with a vac pump. Didn't actually verify the valve moving up and down though. Will check tomorrow, right now I'm almost positive there is an air leak. I cleared codes, will check again after looking for the leak, which I'm pretty sure I can hear a few feet away from the truck. Hard to tell with a little power steering/transmission whine in the background.
Well when I disconnected the intake tube with it running, it shut off almost immediately. Will clean MAF while its out anyhow. I pressurized the intake as well and checked with some soapy water, found bubbles around the EGR tube at the manifold. Felt around it with my finger and found a piece of the o-ring hanging out. Not a chance of pulling the EGR without the can of worms, so I cut the excess rubber out and put a good dose of high temp silicone around it. Also found the vacuum line going to the little diaphram at the fuel rail, pressure reg or shut down, was just barely on the nipple. In a few hours I'll take it for a spin and see if any codes come back up. Thanks again.
PS I did pull the EGR supply tube while pressurizing the intake, then put vacuum to the EGR valve and it seemed to open and close fine as I felt the air relieving out the EGR pretty good.
OK lesson learned, silicone not the best fix. Running it with the "patch" over the EGR intake tube, it still had surging idle when stopped in gear. Ran/drove fine besides that. Did another pressure test, found my silicone job to be leaking a bit, so got a new oring for that. Had to take out the intake plenum and carefully work the EGR tube to not bend anything. I disconnected the supply tube to allow a little more give. Oring seals on the plenum looked fine, cleaned both surfaces anyhow, intake gasket looked fine. Also rinsed out the EGR valve from the top down, opening the valve every few sprays to clean out the gunk. Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner, cleaned dirty connections/grounds for coil pack as well, boots and wires seem to be fine.
Is the EGR valve supposed to "hold" a steady vacuum? My gauge is a little notchy, but it seems I could get it about halfway around the gauge tops, pressure would steadily (slowly) drop. Even used my mouth on it, definetley bleeds off pressure, but the valve does open/close.
Before I replaced the Oring, I got P0300 pd, seems to be random/multiple cylinder misfire. Oh and also got 0113 from unplugging the MAF for a few seconds, which (while surging) ran better for about 2 seconds, then conked out. After replacing oring and checking all other vacuum connections possible, didn't clear codes and the 0300 went away, but it still surges at idle when in drive. Evap and Catalyst were the only tests not ready after about 30min of nonstop driving. So the 0402, 0171 and 0174 seem to be gone, for now.
I'm kind of at a stall, what else to look for? I'll give it one more day of playing around, but without a proper scan tool I don't want to throw any unnecessary parts at it. To review, it had 4 codes: 0402, 0171, 0174, and 0305. Cleared all those, repaired EGR tube, got p0300. Repaired Oring on EGR intake tube and all listed above, no more codes. Still have surging idle, maybe a bit worse now that I fixed the oring, but runs and drives excellent besides that. Also a little hesitant to start, sometimes, seems to be when slightly warm.
Sorry for a long post, but thanks to those who have read/helped. Its appreciated!
You have to pressurize the EGR valve to 10 lbs, and hold it for 20 seconds. It can and should fall after 20 seconds. But what it does after 20 seconds is irrelavent, what you need to know is that it does not drop AT ALL within 20 seconds. If it drops 1 psi after 19 seconds, its not sealing right and needs replacement or a good cleaning. I would try soaking it in so alcohol before replacing it and testing it again. You might also try taking off your Throttle body, and checking the EGR ports for carbon clogging, and clean it out. Make sure you use something soft and nothing to harsh, because it is teflon coated. If you have already scoured the throttle body, then that might be your problem. Clean your sensors, and your IAV valve as well. Its okay to use brake cleaner here. After you do this, let the car relearn its idle by resetting the computer, then starting it up and letting it run for 30 minutes, and then drive it for about 10 to 20 miles.
2001 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 (mine)
2003 Ford Focus SE (the wifey)
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