FE385

A couple of days ago I was unable to advance the ignition key past the locked position. After much jiggling, I was able to start and limp the car home. I thought perhaps the key I had was worn, but I tried my factory second and that wouldn't work either. I was then able to get the lock cylinder out (again after more jiggling to get it to the "on" position), and am at the point of ordering a new lock cylinder, assuming that that is the problem (car has 380M miles).
My car has the key chip in the plastic handle of the key, not on the metal blade.
What is involved in resetting a new lock cylinder with my same keys? I believe that I don't need a "scan tool" if I am keeping the same keys. When I look at a new cylinder on Rock Auto, there is the cylinder and what appears to be several springs and bladed cams. This is a Ford (Motorcraft) lock cylinder I would be ordering.
Thanks.

R.S.LOGAN

On the ones I've done it was just a case of replacing the ignition barrel blades / springs one at a time from the kit supplied till you had the correct ones fitted and lined up o.k when key inserted before refitting into the cylinder .

R.S.LOGAN

Found this which gives you the general method for replacing the blades .

FE385

R.S.,Thanks very much. Out of curiosity, do you know the mechanism by which the chip allows unlocking of the cylinder/starting of the engine? is the chip connected to the blade of the key electrically within the plastic handle extension, and therefore to other circuitry when engaged in the lock cylinder? If so, then is the ignition switch the companion device that is signalled and allows the car to be started?Thanks again.

R.S.LOGAN

This explains ,

FE385

R.S., thanks again for the videos - they were spot-on. i finished the car yesterday and everything works great.

R.S.LOGAN

Glad to help , good everything now o.k .Thanks for update .